212

[CHAPTER XIX.]

GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE.

A German Watering-place.—Land of Salt.—Salt Works.—Last of the Barons.—Homburg.—Kursaal.—Palace.—Gaming.—Kreusnach.—Spas.—Salt Springs.—Cure-house.—Kissingen.—Baths.—Cures.—Long Sledge-ride.—Princess of Mecklenburg.—Clerical Postman.—Whey-cure.—Grape-cure.—Rest.—Rheingraffenstein.—Ebernburg.—Relics of Reformers.—French Cannon Balls.—The Bingen of Poetry.—The Real Bingen.—Bishop Hatto’s Tower.—Maüse-thurme.—Southey.—Ehrenfels.—Rudesheimer Vineyards.—Wine-making.—Shallow Soil.—Johannisberg Vineyard.—The Rhine.—Mayence.—Printing.—Guttenberg’s Statue.—Cathedral

232

[CHAPTER XX.]

PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

Tomb of Charlemagne.—The Dead Emperor.—Cathedral.—Consecration.—Holy Shrine.—Healing Waters.—Palace.—Holy Relics.—Remarkable List.—Septennial Exhibition.—Sultan of Turkey.—Crowd.—Order and Devotion.—Sultan and Suite.—Stolidity.—Priests and Women.—A Crush.—Pageant opened.—Procession.—The Relics.—Puseyite Priest.—On the Road to Rome.—Superstition.—Pictures.—Virgin’s Garment.—Modern Style.—Holy Shirt.—Other Relics.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—Waters.—Fountain.—Music.—Invalids.—Kurhaus.—Social Ease.—Baths.—Sulphur Water.—Antiquities.—Tower of Granus.—Statue of Charlemagne.—Bust and Skull

245

[CHAPTER XXI.]