FRANKFORT.

Graveyard.—Childish Plays.—Cheerful Graves.—Grave of Goethe’s Mother.—Inscription.—Lovely Sentiment.—Coffin of Goethe.—Wealthy Jew.—Humiliation.—Ancient Glory.—Ariadne.—Elegant Cars.—Smokers.—Pine Forests.—Women’s Rights.—Beer Drinking.—A Good Arrangement.—Frankfort-on-the-Oder.—Krewz.—Dinner.—Gardens.—Scenery.—Nakal.—Bromberg.—Wedges.—Attentive Servant.—Frontier.—Passports.—The Vistula.—Poland.—Warsaw

264

[CHAPTER XXII.]

WARSAW.

Historic Legend.—The Jesuits.—Partition.—Last Insurrection.—Nationality crushed out.—Attempted Insurrection.—Defeat.—Warsaw.—Armed Despotism.—Discontent.—Precarious Prosperity.—Russian Rule and Language.—Fate of a Spy.—Consequence.—Russian Soldiery.—Ill-manners.—Botanical Gardens.—Observatory.—Palace.—Sobieski’s Monument.—Grave Error.—Illumination.—Streets.—Drunkenness.—Climate.—Lutheran Church.—Relics of Romanism.—Mendicants.—Jewish Quarter.—Hospital.—War of Religions.—Statue of the Virgin.—Little Russia.—Funeral.—English Cock

273

[CHAPTER XXIII.]

FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.

Pretentious Hotel.—Splendid Bridge.—Polite Ticket-seller.—Cars.—Prairie.—Wretched Peasantry.—Jews.—Railroad Employes.—Lapy.—Mother and Son.—Bialystok.—Grodno.—Diet of Poland.—Last King of Poland.—Jewish Holiday.—Lithuania.—Plains.—Napoleon’s Hill.—Monument.—Wilna.—Ruins.—Insurrection.—Babel.—Dunaberg.—Captive.—Short Night.—Serfs.—Reform.—Board of Arbitrators.—Emancipation.—Pskof.—Lady Smoker.—St. Petersburg