TOLEDO.—ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.

Progress.—Hotel Lino.—The wicked Flea.—Easy Manners.—Breakfast.—Model Landlord and Waiters.—Toledo Butter.—City set on a Hill.—Monuments of departed Peoples.—Romance.—Architecture.—Oldest City in the World.—Mythic Founders.—Perfidy of Roderick.—Reign of the Archbishops.—Decline of Power and Glory.—Cathedral.—Descent of the Virgin.—A fair Penitent.—Orthodoxy of the Priesthood.—Burning of the Missals.—The Muzarabe.—The dead Lion better than a living Dog.—Eloquent Epitaph.—Honors paid the Virgin.—The Alcazar.—Derivation of Mango.—Spanish Pride.—Peacocks.—Foreign Impressions.—Moorish Gates.—San Juan de los Reyes.—Thank-offerings.—St. Florinde.—Cave of Hercules.—Legend of the Cid.—Café.—Toledo Blades.—Virtues of the Tagus.—Sword of Boabdil.—Lunatic Asylum.—Don Quixote.—Crazy Editors.—Statistics.—Causes of Insanity.—Spanish Slowness and Temperance.—Sophomores

53

[CHAPTER VII.]

LA MANCHA.—ANDALUSIA.

Smoking.—Cigarettes at Dinner.—Taking Sanctuary.—Retort.—Tobacco Culture.—Cuban Monopoly.—Chewing tabooed.—Early Smoking.—Children and Ladies.—Tobacco Factory.—Cigareras.—Flavored Cigars.—Potash.—Soda.—Opium.—Intemperate Clergyman.—La Mancha.—Don Quixote.—Treeless Landscape.—Sheep.—Corn.—Primitive Ploughing.—Husbandry.—Primogeniture.—Lands of Church and Crown.—Agricultural Schools.—Periodicals.—Sierra Morena Mountains.—Cautious Engineer.—Manjibar.—Pickled Chicken.—Moving on.—Perfumes of Arabia.—Resting-place.—Transatlantic Indigestion.—Andalusia.—Ignorance and Crime.—Government Education.—Statistics.—Salamanca.—Influence of Climate.—Population.—The Aloe and Olive.—Oranges and Lemons.—Hills of Andalusia.—Sheep

69

[CHAPTER VIII.]

CORDOVA.

Cleanliness.—Paved Streets.—Bridge over the Guadalquiver.—Age of the City.—Wholesale Butchery.—Government.—Mosques.—Baths.—Inns.—Schools.—Library.—Rural Fête.—Departed Glory.—Palace of Abdurhama.—Beautiful Evergreens.—Fruits.—Interior of an Ancient House.—Moorish Style.—Cathedral.—Converted Mosque.—Gate of Pardon.—Court-yard.—Orange Grove.—Fountains.—Gold Fish.—Elders in the Gate.—The Mecca of Europe.—Holy Shrine.—Symbolism.—Indulgences.—Bronze Ornaments.—Inscription in Gothic and Arabic.—Dimensions.—Precious Stones.—The Mihrab.—The Kalif’s Oratory.—Mosaics.—Devout Mussulmans.—Chapels.—Etching on Stone.—Impressive Monuments