83

[CHAPTER IX.]

SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.

Delicious Climate.—Customs.—Exile of the Moors.—Consequent Decay.—The Alcazar.—Barbaric Splendor.—A Christian Kingdom.—Cathedral.—A House of God.—Giant Columns.—High Mass.—Unconscious Worshipper.—Beautiful Women.—Venus-worship.—Port of Seville.—Fruits.—Don Juan.—Barber of Seville.—Murillo’s House.—Mosaics.—Moorish Castle.—Auto-da-fé.—The Quemadaro.—Field of St. Sebastian.—Circulation of the Bible.—Tower of Gold.—Treasure House.—Prison.—Bins of Gold.—Decline and Fall of Spain.—Demoralizing Influences.—Corruption and Robbery.—Yellow Fever.—Guadalquiver.—Amphitheatre.—A Delicate Lady.—Warlike Husband.—Her Description of a Bull-fight.—The Ring.—Spectators.—Trumpet-blast.—Picadors.—Entrance of the Bull.—Charge.—Horseman.—Terrible Sight.—Chulos.—Banderilleros.—Squibs.—Matador.—Applause.—The Ladies.—Different Tastes.—Squeamish Husband

92

[CHAPTER X.]

SEVILLE.

La Caridad.—Art Treasures.—St. John.—Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.—Moses striking the Rock.—Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo.—French Thieves.—Venus de Medici.—Thoughtful Amateur.—Museum Fees.—Guardian Angels of Seville.—Martyrdom.—Murillo’s Pages of the Gospel.—Old Masters.—Decay of Art.—Bull-fighting.—The Season.—Exaggeration.—Curious Development.—Effect on the National Character.—Street-plays.—Feats.—Demoralization.—Spanish Pride.—Morality.—Contrast between the North and South of Europe.—Costume of Andalusia.—Fashion.—Life of the People.—Price of Labor.—Food.—Climate.—Beer.—Wine cheaper than Water.—Sack.—Intemperance.—Physical Circumstances.—Social Burdens.—Beautiful Trait.—Obedience.—Veneration of the Aged

107

[CHAPTER XI.]