3923. Five out of six persons have their dresses made too tight across the chest; it is a sad fault. Any lady once wearing an easy dress, would never go back to a tight one; to say nothing of its being healthy and beautiful.
3924. Do not select a very stout body lining; it is a common mistake. A stout lining prevents the dress giving or setting to the figure, and is no stronger than one of moderate quality. French dressmakers exclaim at the bad shapes so commonly seen in this country, and charge them to this cause in a great measure. For a white dress, lawn, cambric, chintz, or silk—bleached muslin, at twelve and a half cents a yard, is good enough. For dark merinos, or cashmeres, some prefer dark twilled stuffs.
3925. A yard of lining is the proper quantity for a close dress, a yard and a half for a basque or jacket. Sleeve linings should always be of a thin material.
3926. Great care must be taken with the armholes; do not make them too large or too small; thirteen inches is a nice size for a person not more than twenty-four inches in the waist; fourteen inches is a large size, only required for stout persons.
3927. If you have to alter the armhole, never do it under the arm; in nine cases out of ten it will spoil the dress, and it takes away the free use of the arm; a very small piece cut off round the armhole, excepting underneath, will be all that is necessary.