3928. Do not forget your sleeves must be larger than the armhole an inch and a half; when put in, it never looks the least full, and sets better. The seam of your sleeve must not be even with the seam of your body, but half an inch in front of it.
3929. In cording the neck, do not stretch it; hold the cord tight. The waist must, on the contrary, be pulled well when the cord is put on, or it will never fit; it requires much stretching. The fit of the body often depends on the finishing.
3930. All full bodies are made with quite a straight piece of material, twenty inches long, and eighteen wide; this is half the front; gather it straight at the bottom, and then place it on your tight lining; fix it firmly, and then gather it at the shoulder; but mind and do the bottom gauging first.
3931. To make a body with folds, still have your material twenty inches long, and nineteen wide; the selvage must reach from waist to shoulder.
3932. In putting folds on a body, let it be on the straight, or a good cross; don't let it be neither one nor the other, which is too frequently the case, and always will, as a matter of course, set badly. It makes the folds set better to cover over half the body lining with a plain piece of the dress, as you would wear a stomacher, and then place your folds to meet it, so that a folded body will be in two pieces, the plain part put on first, and the folds after.