No. 1. When a Fish is Fresh.—When the gills of a fish are of a bright color, and the eyes appear full and clear, it is quite fresh; if the flesh seems hard and firm and rises quickly from pressure with the finger, its freshness is still farther assured. Although a fish that will not stand these tests may not be spoilt, its goodness has deteriorated in proportion as it fails to meet such requirements, and it is so much less desirable for the table. The sense of smell cannot be relied upon to decide the question of freshness.
No. 2. To Dress or Clean a Fish.—Some fish require scaling and some need to be skinned before cooking. The sooner a fish is scaled after taking from the water, the easier it can be done. Some fish of the scaly variety, however, should never be scaled as the scales of such are esteemed a delicacy. Such exceptions will be noted in the recipes for cooking these fish. When the scales of a fish have become dry and hard or the fish is a difficult one to scale from any cause, it should be soaked for a while in cold salted water. If you have not time to do this, hold the fish up by the tail and pour boiling water over it, but do not let it lie in hot water for an instant. Having scaled the fish, the next question is how is it to be cooked? for this has much to do with the dressing process.
No. 3. To prepare for Baking or Boiling.—If the fish is a large one and to be cooked whole, it should be opened from the vent up as far as the ventral fins,—taking care not to mutilate the roes or livers if they are wanted for cooking. With a sharp knife separate the intestines from the body, also the gills from the head, and pull out all together through the natural gill opening. The reason for opening the fish as little as possible, is to keep it in best possible shape for stuffing, but if no stuffing is to be used the opening may be made larger to suit the convenience of dressing. When the gills and intestines have been removed, the fish should be washed freely in cold salted water, and all clotted blood thoroughly removed. Only under conditions hereinafter specified should fish be washed after the fins have been cut out or the solid flesh of the fish has been cut into. No washing of the flesh can make it any cleaner than it is in its natural condition, and if the fish is washed after the flesh has been cut you are simply bringing the slime and blood in contact with it, and the more you wash it the more you are rubbing it in, and the fish may become so impregnated as to be extremely strong when cooked. This is a point that should not be disregarded if you would have sweet-flavored fish. After washing thoroughly, wipe perfectly dry, then either cut out or trim off the fins, as occasion requires or tastes suggest. A pair of scissors will be found very convenient for trimming off the fins.
No. 4. To prepare Fish for Broiling.—Dress, wash and wipe dry before splitting. Always split a fish on the under side, and unless the fish is very small indeed remove the back bone entire, then the thickest part of the fish will come over the center and hottest part of the fire, and both sides will be cooked alike, whereas if the back bone is left in one side, that side will take longer to cook, and will be less desirable after it is cooked, for when the back bone is removed from the cooked fish a good part of the brown part is taken off with it, and it loses its flavor as a broiled fish. Properly broiled, all parts should be equally browned, both an account of flavor and appearance. Very small fish are sometimes broiled without splitting; these should be dressed the same as for frying.
No. 5. To prepare Fish for Frying.—Fish may be fried whole in steaks or fillets. Those to be fried whole must be dressed, then washed and wiped perfectly dry. Steaks are slices of fish cut crosswise; fillets are made from steaks or from pieces of fish cut off lengthwise, and may be any size or shape to suit individual tastes. The best way to make fillets is to dress and split the fish, remove the back bone and then cut the fish into halves, quarters or eights, according to size.
No. 6. Fish to Skin.—Fish that require to be skinned before cooking, should be first dressed and washed clean, then remove the skin, head, tail and fins, rinse quickly in clear cold water and wipe thoroughly dry.
☞ Notice.—No repetition of the foregoing directions for dressing and cleaning fish will occur in connection with any recipes to which they are applicable. When other treatment is requisite special directions will accompany the recipe.
No. 7. Fish Cookery in General.—Under this head will be found such instructions for the cooking of fish as are applicable to any or all kinds. Special recipes for special varieties are given elsewhere (see index) but many of these are equally suited to other fish of similar qualities.
No. 8. Fish to Fry.—Fish may be fried in olive oil, pork fat, lard, cottolene, or clarified drippings; the latter being probably the most economical; the first chiefly used in French or high-class cookery, but we favor pork fat ourselves. Whatever fat is used it should be deep enough to cover the fish and hot enough to brown a piece of bread handsomely in thirty seconds or less. The pork fat is made by trying out thin slices of fat salt pork, being careful not to let it burn. The pork gives the fish a flavor not to be obtained by the use of salt in connection with other oils or fats. When the pork fat is used salt should be used sparingly if at all. Fried fish should be seasoned while cooking. The slices of pork may be used as a garnish and served with the fish. After wiping dry, fish should be rolled in Indian meal, flour, cornstarch, or crumbs before frying. If the fish has been on ice or is very cold, do not put it into the fat fast enough to cool it perceptably. Watch carefully while cooking, don’t break or mutilate in turning or dishing, cook a nice brown, drain on a sieve, colander or paper, and serve hot on a napkin. Unless fish are very small they should be notched each side before rolling in meal or other absorbents previous to frying.
No. 9. To Saute, is to fry in just fat enough to cover bottom of frying pan.