No. 10. To Broil.—The process of broiling is probably the most simple as well as the most desirable method of cooking many kinds of fish, the natural flavor and juices being better preserved than by any other, and the flavor may be further enhanced by the judicious use of seasoning, herbs, etc., preparatory to broiling (see recipes for broiling.) The double iron broiler is unquestionably the best utensil for broiling fish, yet they may be broiled on a griddle or in a spider. Heat hot and butter well before laying in the fish, cook the flesh side first, when that is perfectly browned turn and finish cooking. Serve on a hot platter, spread with butter or cream or both and season to taste. A fish may also be broiled in a good hot oven in the dripping pan, and if it be a very fat one will cook nicely. The pan should be well buttered and the fish placed skin side down and cooked without turning. Basting once or twice with butter or cream while cooking is advisable.
No. 11. To Boil.—Boiling is considered by many the most insipid and undesirable way of cooking fish, yet there are certain varieties that are best cooked this way if accompanied by a rich sauce. The fish boiler is almost indispensable to success in boiling or steaming a whole fish, but everybody hasn’t one, and to such we would say utilize the wash boiler. Put a bowl or something in each end that will support a platter, either side up; on the platter lay the fish and add water enough to reach the platter without coming in contact with the fish, thus enabling you to steam the fish, which is preferable to boiling. Fish boiled in a common kettle should first be wrapped closely in cheese cloth or fine muslin to preserve its shape. The head is the best part of a boiled fish, and the nearer the head the better the remaining portion. Boiled fish should be served on a napkin and the sauce in a tureen. A fish of six pounds should boil or steam in thirty or thirty-five minutes. The water should always be salted. A boiled fish may be stuffed, but usually they are not. Recipes for sauces suitable for boiled fish will be found under the head of sauces, (Nos. [13] to [56].)
No. 12. To Bake.—Different varieties of fish, different sizes, and different portions of fish require such varied treatment in baking we can offer but few general rules for this branch of cookery. Our recipes, however, will supply all needed information. A dripping pan with a false bottom, either wire or perforated, with a handle at each end by which to lift it, is particularly desirable in baking fish. Wanting these, strips of cloth well buttered and placed across the bottom of the pan will be found extremely convenient for lifting out the fish. A baked fish presents a more attractive appearance when served in an upright position on the platter, and also cooks much nicer in this condition. To keep it so while cooking, first press it down enough to flatten the under side, then if necessary brace it up with skewers or with potatoes placed against it until it is well under way for cooking, when it will keep its position until cooked and dished. Sometimes it is advisable to bend the fish half-moon shape and cook it that way, or if the fish is long and slender the tail may be tied to the mouth, either of which methods will keep the fish in upright position. Dressing and force-meats are considered elsewhere, and indexed under their appropriate headings.
☞ The secret of success in all kinds of fish cookery is to so cook and serve it that it shall be attractive in appearance and satisfying in flavor; that is, the flavor when especially agreeable or desirable must be retained or enhanced. When the flavor of a fish is insipid or unpleasant it must be cooked with a view to imparting an unnatural but at the same time pleasant flavor instead. This is the secret of success in fish cookery, and these points have been especially considered in the selection of the accompanying recipes.
No. 13. Sauces.—Sauces are extensively used in all kinds of fish cookery. For convenience in reference we have given them first place among our recipes. Although consommes or stocks are not absolutely indispensable in connection with fish cookery, they are nevertheless extremely useful in the making of nice sauces, and recipes for making them in great variety may be found in almost every cook book, still we have thought best to give directions for making two of those most frequently used in preparing the following sauces. When stocks are not at hand, liquor in which fish have been cooked will answer every purpose, and even milk or water, or both may be substituted.
No. 14. Consomme or White Stock.—A French method of making a white stock, is to put in a stock pot, or kettle, a roast fowl (chicken,) or the remains of a chicken or turkey, a knuckle of veal, say four pounds, one pound of beef and three quarts of water, when scum begins to rise skim carefully, until it ceases to appear, then add a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a leek, two cloves, two stalks of celery, and a little salt, simmer very gently four hours. Remove every particle of grease and strain through a flannel cloth, kept for the purpose.
No. 15. Fish Stock.—Two pounds of veal, four pounds of fish, or more veal, and less fish, if you do not have as much fish, two onions, rind of half a lemon, bunch sweet herbs, two carrots, two quarts water. Cut up fish and meat and put with other ingredients into the water, simmer two hours, skim liquor carefully and strain. When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water.
No. 16. Drawn Butter.—No. 1. This is the simplest and most generally used of any fish sauce, and serves as the foundation for a large proportion of such sauces. It can be made very economically also, its cost depending upon the amount of butter used. Simple as it is many people fail in making it. To make it nice and smooth with one pint hot water, half a cup of butter, two teaspoons flour, half a teaspoon salt and half a saltspoon of pepper, put one-half the butter in a saucepan and melt without letting it brown, add the dry flour, mixing well, then stir in the hot water, a little at a time, stir rapidly as it thickens; when perfectly smooth add the remaining butter bit by bit and stir until all absorbed, then add the seasoning; if carefully made it will be free from lumps, if it is not smooth strain before serving.
No. 17. Drawn Butter Sauce.—No. 2. Pour boiling hot drawn butter sauce ([No. 16]) into the well beaten yolks of two eggs, mix thoroughly, season to taste, and serve quickly.
No. 18. Cream Sauce.—This sauce is made by substituting cream or milk for water in the drawn butter sauce ([No. 16].)