The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 2

by Sir Richard Francis Burton

SECTION II.

The spirit-specimens submitted to Mr. William Carruthers, of the
British Museum, are described by him as follows:—
1. Phallus impudicus, Linn. (in Arab. Faswat el-'Ajúz). The common
"stinkhorn," extremely common in some districts of England, and obtruding
on the notice of every one from its detestable odour. It is widely
distributed over America and Africa, as well as Europe, but I find no
record of its occurring in Asia.
2. Tulostoma mammosum, Fr. Also British, but not so common. Widely
distributed.
3. Phelipoea lutea, Desf. A dark, fleshy broom-rape, with scaly leaves. We
have one species of the same genus in England. They are parasitic on
the roots of plants; and the Midianite species, which is found in North
Africa, Egypt, and Arabia, grows on the roots of a Chenopodium.
4. Cynomorium coccineum, Mich. A fleshy, leafless plant, also a root-
parasite. It was called by old writers Fungus Melitensis, and was of much
repute in medicine. It is known from the Himalayas to the Canary
Islands, and is said by Webb, in his history of the Canaries, to be eaten in
the Island of Lancerotte.
5. Doemia cordata, R. Br. A spiny shrub, with roundish leaves and small
sharp-pointed fruit, found in Egypt and Arabia.
6. Capparis galeata, Fres., with large fruit, long and pear-shaped. This
caper is well known; from Syria and Egypt.
(Signed) W. CARRUTHERS.
INSECTS COLLECTED IN MIDIAN BY CAPTAIN BURTON.
(Identified by Mr. Frederick Smith, of the British Museum.)
COLEOPTERA.
Geodephaga
l. Anthia 12 guttata.
Melolonthidoe.
2. Schizonycha reflexa.
3. Pachydema.
Dynastidoe.
4. Heteronychus.
Curculionidoe.
5. Cleonus arabs.
Heteromera.
6. Mesostenanear punctipennis.
7. Adesmia.
8. Akis Goryi?
9. Mylabris.
Hemiptera.
10. Nepa rubra.
Mantidoe.
11. Eremiaphila arenaria. 12. Blepharis mendica.
Orthoptera.
13. Acocera.
14. Acridium peregrinum. 15. Poecilocera bufonia.
Scorpionidea.
16. Androctonus funestus.
17. " leptochelys.
18. " quinquestriatus.
Arachnida.
19. Galeodes arabs, in spirit.
20. Clubiona Listeri, in spirit.
(Signed) FREDK. SMITH.

APPENDIX V.

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL
(December 19, 1877, to April 17, 1878).

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES ON TRAVELLING IN MIDIAN.
Midian follows the rule of Syria—travel in the spring. The best time on the
seaboard is during the months of March, April, and May. In the mountains and
the Hismá plateau, April, May, and June are the most favourable. In Syria
(Damascus) the autumn is dangerous: the finest travelling weather is in March
to May. The second best season is between October and December.
January and February are cold; the latter also (sometimes) rainy.
March is stormy at first (El-'Uwweh), but afterwards gets warmer (El-Ni'ám).
Dews now begin, and last some three months: they wet everything like a sharp
shower, and make the air feel soppy.
In July the first dates come in. Fevers are prevalent during this month, and
also during August and September.
October is a month of heat and drought.
In November the first cold occurs.
December is the coldest month.
NOTES on TRAVELLING IN LOWER EGYPT.
September is very bad—all should escape who can. Fruits everywhere; sun hot;
air damp with irrigation water, white fogs and other horrors.
October is a good month, the weather being neither too hot nor too
cold.
November is the month of the "second water" irrigation about Cairo.
December is pleasant.
January is cold and sometimes wet.
February is stormy, and even foggy with sand-mist.
March is windy, but on the whole a good month, except for Khamsin, which
begins about March 20th.
April begins to feel warm (April 29, 1878, Shamm el-Nasim).
The winter presents a marvellous contrast to that of England, which
can often show one hour and five minutes' sunlight in the twenty-four, or
2.8 per cent. of its possible duration.
THE TIDES
In El-'Akabah are like Suez: first of month, flood, 6—12 a.m. and p.m.; ebb,
the rest. But at Suez the tides rise one metre, and at times two metres; at
El-'Akabah (February 7), one foot.
For the instruments NOT used in this Expedition, see Chap. I. p. 11.
The barometre aneroid sold by M. Ebner was partially repaired by M. Lacaze,
and served for Mr. David Duguid's observations.
My pocket set by Casella (maker to the Admiralty and Ordnance)
consisted of—
One watch aneroid (compensated, 1182).
Two sets wet and dry bulb thermometers (one broken).
One set maxima and minima thermometers, Nos. 12,877 and 12,906.
Two pocket hygrometers not numbered.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING FIRST MARCH BETWEEN DECEMBER
19, 1877, AND FEBRUARY 18, 1878

December 19, 1877, compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer, 758
millimetres, with my aneroid by Casella (29.85) = 765 millimetres; difference
in
ship's, + 007 millimetre.
January 31, 1878, returned on board Mukhbir at Makná. Ship's mercurial
barometer, 773 millimetres; my aneroid by Casella, 764 millimetres; difference
in ship's, + 009 millimetre.
Date. Time. Aneroid Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks.
Inches. Milli. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)
Dec. 19. 7a.m. 29.85 765 76 - - 58 On deck of gunboat
Mukhbir, at Sharm
Yahárr, steaming to El-
Muwaylah. Morning ugly.
Strong land-breeze,
turned to Azyab ("south-
easter"). Waves rising.
Dark-blue clouds to
windward.
Noon. 29.80 757 77 - - 54 In big tent on shore,
open east and west. Wind
high. Everything feels
damp; looks gloomy;
mountains almost hidden
by clouds. Landscape
that of Europe. No sun
nor sunshine all day.
3p.m. 29.09 - 86 - - 51 In my small tent.
Clearing to windward
(north). Wind veering to
north. Moon nearly full.
High fleecy clouds. Sea
high. No sun all day.
Azyab (the wet wind) generally lasts two or three days; veers round by west to
north. Much rain has already fallen (Arab lies). Land green (all brown); grass
plentiful (not a blade to be seen). Rains here December 15th to February 15th;
downfall one hour to four hours, then clears. On December 8th, violent rain
for one hour; filled all the torrents (Sayl).
Dec. 20. 7a.m. 29.80 758 63 - - 40 In small tent open to
east. Morning clear. Few
fleecy clouds: cool and
bright. "Misri" from
north-west; cold and
rain.
3p.m. 29.92 759 78 - - 32 Hot in tents, cool in
breeze. "Misri" high and
strong sea. At 1.10 p.m.
heavy clouds; expected
rain—few heavy drops.
AT EL-MUWAYLAH AND RAS WADY TIRYAM.
Dec. 21. 6.35a.m. 30.02 763 71 - - 35 Inside tent. Full moon
and clear. Dawn, 6 a.m.;
night, 6.30. Speckled
clouds.
Noon. 30.48 764 76 - - 48 Under umbrella. Air
clear. Mottled clouds on
mountains. Sea horizon.
Low white bank of
clouds.
3p.m. 30.05 763 77 - - 39 "Misri." High cirri from
west. Big black cloud
over sea. Suspected
rain: Arabs said no.
Cloud dispersed.
AT RAS WADY TIRYAM.
Dec. 22. 7a.m. 30.01 760 57 - - 32 Cold night. Clear
morning. Cold sunrise.
Dry north-wester.
Instruments on paper,
resting on the sand.
Very dry.
Noon. 30.14 - 82 - - 22 Very dry. Straight
streaks of cirri
everywhere.
4p.m. 30.00 763 72 - - 17 At Wady Sharmá, on sand
protected from west
wind. Bright moon,
showed halo.
Kayhak 14 begins the Coptic winter, properly speaking evening of 13th; after
sunset 1 hour 51 minutes. Sea-breeze and land-winds regular to-day and
throughout the month.
AT WADY SHARMÁ.
Dec. 23. 7a.m. 29.90 760 58 - - 19 Instruments on box
standing on sand. Moon
with halo at night. Red
sunrise, grey clouds.
Mountains blue-grey,
brightly defined. Before
dawn moon two halos,
large and small. Fleecy
clouds. Nine a.m. clear,
sun hot.
2.30p.m. 29.15 740 78 - - 25 Under rock in upper Wady
Sharmá. Streaky cirri.
Sun hot; air cool.
Little sea-breeze, kept
off by hills.
Arrived at the "White Mountain," and stayed there a week.
4p.m. 29.12 740 75 - - 28 At Jebel el-Abyaz, on
box behind tent
sheltered from wind. Air
quite still; streaky
cirri. Camp Jebel el-
Abyaz, say, 800 feet
above sea. Felt very
dry.
AT JEBEL EL-ABYAZ.
Dec. 24 7a.m. 29.10 738 61 - - 29 In mess tent on mess
table. Cold. Mottled
clouds east and zenith.
Grey bank to sea
reddened by sunrise,
like storm clouds. Rain
here from Azyab ("south-
east"). Sunrise at
Cairo, 6.55 a.m.
Noon. 29.00 737 64 63 55 33 Suspended instruments.
Grey day: cold breeze
from east. Cold comes
only from wind; when no
breeze, very mild.
Getting greyer and
colder. Very like rain—
heavey clouds.
3.10p.m. 29.00 737 64 64 52 28 Wind west, cold and raw.
Air grey and cold.
Evening cold; clouds
dispersed, sun came out.
Wind to west, inclining
to north.
Small thermometer shows higher than Casellás because in brass case; not so
well exposed to air.
Dec. 25. 7a.m. 29.10 739 50 50 45 29 Morning cool and clear.
Noon. 29.20 - 72 68 55 21 Very clear, still, and
hot. Slight breeze from
sea (west). Sun strong.
Swarms of flies. Dry
bulb in sun, 73 degrees;
wet, 60 degrees.
3p.m. 29.16 741 72 69 54 15 Cool and gentle breeze
from sea, dispersing the
swarms of flies. At
times "sand-devil" from
north-west.
All this day's observations taken on writing table in large tent. Night cold:
cold severest after two a.m. and before sunrise. Sky at night perfectly clear.
Wind from north turning to east, a Barri ("land-breeze"). Height of Jebel el-
Abyaz above tents, by aneroid = 350 feet (29.20 - 28.85 = 0.35).
Dec. 26. 7.15a.m. 29.21 743 48 46 43 22 In tent. Sky perfectly
clear.
Noon. 29.26 - 76 77 55 6 Sun very hot. Air quite
still. Fleecy clouds
from west over the sun.
4.45p.m. 29.23 743 73 69 55 8 Sun cooler. Air
perfectly clear.
Dec. 27. 7a.m. 29.16 740 50 49 43 5 3 In tent. Morning cold
and clear: few flecks of
cloud to east. Air feels
intensely dry.
12.30p.m.29.23 743 77 74 58 9 Fine cirri high up. Sky
blue. Sun veiled at
times. Very little wind,
a breath from north.
3.20p.m. 59.16 742 80 77 56 6 Sky with filmy white
clouds, thicker at west.
Sun hidden; very hot at
noon (rain-sun?). Not a
breath of air. Sense of
intense dryness. Ink
evaporates at once. Cool
breeze started up
shortly after 3.30 p.m.
from west, then clouds
thickened. Thermometer
fell 4 degrees.
Cool evening; quite clear. Fevers and feverish colds begin to show themselves
in camp. Minimum thermometer during night—No. 1, 45 degrees; No. 2, 46
degrees; French, 15-1/2 degrees (Centigrade).
Dec. 28 7a.m. 29.10 739 55 53 46 10 In tent. Still. Neither
warm nor cold. Mottled
clouds.
Noon. 29.13 740 78 72 58 4 Clouds thin. Sun very
hot (rain-sun?). Light
breeze from north-west.
3p.m. 29.10 739 79 72 58 - Feels intensely dry.
Hot, close. Heavy
clouds, and purple to
west. Gusts from west.
No wind. Morning and evening very mild. At eight p.m. dark cloud moving from
south-west to mountains. Drops of rain; then stars. Minimum thermometers
during night, both 48 degrees. None of the maximum will act.
Dec. 29. 7a.m. 29.10 738 58 58 54 9 In tent. Cool, clear.
Blue-pink in west. Light
sea-breezes from west.
Must be awfully hot in
summer. In closed tent
at eleven a.m., 92
degrees.
Noon. 29.13 - 77 75 60 10 Nice breeze from sea
(west), bending to
north.
4p.m. 29.00 739 82 79 59 5 Warm and quite still.
Mean of nineteen aneroid observations at Jebel el-Abyaz = 29.13.
MARCH FROM JEBEL EL-ABYAZ TO WADY SHARMÁ.
Dec. 30. 7a.m. 29.10 739 56 - - 7 Clear, still. No speck
of cloud. Moon Náim
(sleeping = *[figure]).
5p.m. 29.88 758 66 - - 8 Air quite clear. Camped
at Sharmá. Change to
shore pleasant and soft.
Noon on journey; sun very hot. Evening still. Violent weather at night; cold
and comfortless. Abated somewhat after sunrise.
AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH.
Dec. 31. 7a.m. 29.88 758 59 - - 7 Wind cold and dusty. Sky
perfectly clear. A few
light mist-clouds on
mountain-wall.
Noon. 29.94 760 75 73 58 6 Wind still. Sun much
warmer.
3p.m. 29.90 - 74 71 58 3 Wind cool; some dust.
Clouds about sunset sailing out of Suez Gulf, forming archipelago of sky
islets. Dark bank to south. Minimum thermometer at night = 42 degrees.
AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH (about 100 feet
above sea-level).
Jan. 1. 7a.m. 29.90 759 53 50 45 10 Clear, fine, quite
still. Nice breeze began
about nine a.m.
Noon. 29.97 - 71 69 57 4 Cold. North wind high.
Light clouds to west;
the rest clear.
3p.m. 29.94 760 73 72 61 4 Clouds to west from Suez
sea.
High wind fell before midnight. Cold—sat in tent. Flies troublesome
everywhere. Minimum at night, 42-43 degrees.
AT WADY SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT.
Jan 2. 7a.m. 29.98 761 53 - - 10
3p.m. 30.00 762 76 72 58 3 Cool breeze from north.
No signs of clouds. Sun
hot and air cool.
Evening no wind, no clouds. At night high cold wind from east, seems to pierce
clothes. Lasted till morning and sun well up. Minimum thermometer, No. 1 = 45
degrees; No. 2 = 46 degrees.
Jan. 3. 7a.m. 29.92 760 58 57 47 3 Dawn comfortless. Cold.
Fire in tent. Sand
blowing. Air highly
electrical.
Noon. 29.90 762 77 76 61 2 Wind still. Hot sun.
3p.m. 29.91 759 76 74 58 4 Hot sun. Gentle breeze.
Warm in tent.
Night very cold. Minimum thermometers, No. 1 = 40 degrees; No. 2 = 41 degrees.
Jan. 4. " 29.83 - 52 50 - 5
Noon. 29.93 760 81 80 60 3 Decidedly hot. No
breeze.
3p.m. 29.90 - 78 75 63 0 Very hot and still.
In evening few fleecy clouds to south-west. Appearance of Azyab. Minimum
thermometers at night, No. 1 = 36 degrees; No. 2 = 38 degrees.
AT WADY SHARMÁ.
Jan. 5. 7a.m. 29.90 - 48 45 43 6 Pink clouds south-west
and south-east. Cirri
everywhere.
Noon. 29.87 761 79 79 67 3 Hot and still. Clear;
few cirri.
3p.m. 29.96 760 74 71 60 0 Cool wind. Cold in
shade. Cirri to south,
at times over the sun.
Very cold at night. Saw new moon; set in fire. Planets veiled in mist. Moon
Káim (points upwards = *[figure]).
Jan. 6. 7.20a.m. 29.94 760 53 51 46 8 Still, clear. Light
breeze about 10.30 a.m.
Noon. 29.80 761 82 - - 4
4p.m. 29.96 761 76 - - 3 Clear and hot. Sunset,
red cirri. Water very
cold. Moon clear.
Jan. 7 " 29.98 758 52 - - 18 At Sharmá. Cool and raw.
Few clouds to south and
south-west.
Noon. 30.08 764 78 - - 26 At 'Aynúnah, in big
tent. Fresh wind from
north. Air much damper;
more pleasant.
AT 'AYNÚNAH.
Jan. 8. 7a.m. 30.11 763 55 - - 22 Morning still—windless
Breath from east. Warm
and pleasant.
Noon. 30.02 767 77 74 61 13 Quite clear and dry.
Gusts of wind. Flies
very bad, even in the
waste.
3p.m. 30.15 767 77 76 63 7
Cold high wind at night.
LEFT 'AYNÚNAH.
Jan. 9. 7a.m. 30.04 - 63 - - 10 Outside tent. Light
clouds everywhere at
dawn. Morning warm and
close.
Noon. 29.91 759 80 - - 48 At El-'Usaylah. Sky
covered with clouds. Sun
coming out.
4p.m. 29.87 758 53 - - 23 In tent at El-'Usaylah.
No wind.
Cool pleasant night. Rain in Mount Sinai(?).
Jan. 10. 6.45a.m. 29.85 - 56 - - 15 Observations in open.
Cold north wind. Clear
and cirri.
3p.m. 29.30 745 77 - - 1 At Magháir Shúayb, under
a tree.
Night cold. High wind; shook the tents.
AT MAGHÁIR SHÚAYB.
Jan. 11. 7a.m. 29.37 747 60 - - 20 In open, on box.
Noon. 29.40 748 82 - - 8 In tent.
3p.m. 29.38 747 84 - - -4 Still. Air hot.
As a rule, at Magháir Shúayb we had land-breezes; cold from north and east.
Seabreezes during day, after noon.
Jan. 12. 7a.m. 29.35 746 59 - - 3 In tent. Cool. Cirri. At
two a.m. cool fresh wind
from north.
Noon. 29.46 747 83 - - -5 In tent. Hot sun. Light
clouds.
3p.m 29.30 746 83 81 64 -9 In tent. No sun, no
wind. Thin clouds.
Night warm; wind towards morning. Mosquitoes in tamarisks of Wady. Minimum
thermometer, 52 degrees.
Jan. 13. 7a.m. 29.38 745 65 - - -4 Outside tent, on box.
Cloudy; little wind. elt
warm. Sun came out
strong at ten a.m.
Noon. 29.27 744 87 87 67 -9 In big tent. Heat like
summer. Flies
troublesome, travel on
our backs.
3p.m. 29.20 743 85 85 65 -15 Very hot. Thin clouds.
Sea-breeze.
Very hot and sultry weather: Arabs say portends rain. Wind (generally) from
north in morning; afternoon from sea.
Jan. 14. 7a.m. 29.01 740 63 63 55 0 In tent. Land-breeze set
in. Expected heavy rain,
and pitched camp higher
up.
2.30p.m. 29.15 - 81-1/279 68 0 Taken by Mr. Clarke.
Rain began 2.30 a.m. (Jan. 15), small drops, then heavy, lull, and again
heavy; ended about 4.30 a.m. A little wind from south-west rose after rain.
The last rain was on December 7-10, 1877; violent storms accompanied it.
Jan. 15. " 29.00 - 71-1/270 66 30 By Mr. Clarke at Magháir
Shúayb. Sky all covered
; little clear to west.
Mist all over north.
Things feel damp.
Noon. 29.06 737 76 73 65 30 All cloudy. After rain,
sultry heat of noon
quite disappeared.
3p.m. 29.06 738 75 73 65 25 Still cloudy. Cool.
Cold nights and mornings.
Jan. 16. 7a.m. 29.20 - 48 45 42 18 No rain. Cold. Little
wind. Cloudy. No wind.
Noon. 29.05 - 69 65 54 3 Sun hot. Cool breeze
from north as usual. No
clouds.
3p.m. 29.25 - 69 65 52 12
Night fine and clear. Stars and moon very bright.
Jan. 17. 7a.m. 29.30 - 42 42 39 17 Clear morning. Very
cold. Land breeze.
Noon. 29.36 745 69 66 54 18 Fine stiff breeze from
north-east.
3p.m. 29.34 745 73 70 59 16 Fine breeze falling.
Fine clear night, moon nearly full. No clouds. Not cold. Cool at night and
towards morning. Wind rose about four a.m.
Jan. 18. 7.30a.m. 29.28 745 55 55 50 26 In tent. Cool, clear.
Gentle land-wind.
Noon. 29.30 - 79 79 63 16 Same weather.
3p.m. 29.25 - 81 79 62 8 Night cool. Hardly any
wind.
Jan. 19. 7a.m. 29.15 - 53 52 45 16 In tent. Cold wind from
north.
Noon. 29.17 - 81 79 63 9 Sun hot. Cool breeze
from north. Sky clear.
3p.m. 29.15 - 80 77 60 5
Remarkably warm pleasant night.
Jan. 20. 7a.m. 29.05 - 50 48 45 19 In tent. No wind. Air
sharp.
Noon. 29.10 - 79 75 63 12 Light wind (south-west).
Sun hot. Sky clear.
3p.m. 29.10 - 73 73 60 8 Cool and pleasant.
Curious moonrise. Thin clouds like volcanic smoke, separated into cirri like
sheep-skin: all said sign of heat. Night still and warm. Few stratified clouds
to west.
Jan. 21. 8a.m. 29.13 740 56 54 50 20 In tent. Cold raw wind
(El-Ayli) from north-
east. High clouds. Worse
near Gulf.
Noon. 29.20 743 68 66 55 16 High cold wind,
continuous. Bright sun.
Sky intensely blue and
clear.
4.15p.m. 29.22 744 66 65 53 8 Cool. High wind.
Strong wind at night; fell about midnight; gusts at times. Very cold. Bad
weather at Sharm Yahárr. Fortuna ("strong wind") began January 21st, ended
January 23rd: the next gale was on night of January 28th. As a rule, the
people say; black clouds show that the wind will increase; light clouds the
contrary.
Jan. 22. 7a.m. 29.32 745 50 49 45 15 Cold and cloudy. El-Ayli
continues.
Noon. 29.36 748 66 62 52 11 High cold north-easter
rose about 11.30. Sun
warm. Air cold.
Heavy purple clouds to north and west. Night still; occasional gusts. Eight
p.m. quite still. Mukhbir delayed by bad weather.
Jan. 23. 7.20a.m. 29.39 748 50 50 45 19 Gusts and calm. Nimbi to
west. High north wind
set in.
Noon. 29.40 747 66 64 54 14 Cold in shade, hot in
sun. High wind.
4p.m. - - 66 65 52 9 Wind still high. Dust.
Night alternately gusty and still. Warm. Mukhbir steamed back to her
anchorage, Sharm Yáhárr.
Jan 24. 7a.m. 29.29 745 55 52 47 15 Gentle breeze from
north. No clouds—sign
of no wind.
1.30p.m. - - 83 78 68 10 The normal hot,
windless, cloudless day.
3p.m. - - 78 74 62 7 Pleasant sea-breeze. Sun
hot; air coolish.
Night warm and pleasant.
MAGHáIR SHÚAYB TO MAKNÁ (March).
Jan. 25. 7a.m. 29.30 - 61 - - 15 On box. Fine, and
perfectly clear.
Noon. 29.45 - 78 - - - On road to Wady Makná,
riding mule. Sea-breeze
about noon, strong.
Shortly after noon heavy
clouds (from north and
west) hid the sun.
3p.m. 30.06 - 71 - - 23 Arrived at Makná, on
box.
Warm pleasant night. Appearance of rain. Wind from north. Moon clouded.
AT MAKNÁ.
Land and sea breezes regular. Morning and evening cool. Noon hot. Evaporation
immense. Healthy near shore; feverish up the valley. Damp air from
neighbourhood of Mount Sinai.
Jan. 26. 7a.m. 30.02 - 68 - - 21 Cloudy. Heavy white
waves on water. Wind
west; dangerous for
ships.
12.30p.m.30.07 - 80 77 62 21 Sun hot; sky clear.
Light fleecy clouds on
Sinai.
3.30p.m. 30.04 743 82 80 70 18 Air and sun hot. Clear.
Sea-breeze. No gale.
Rain probably during the day in Sinai. Muttali, or "fort," of Makná showed
aneroid 760 (29).
Jan. 27. 7a.m. 30.02 - 60 59 55 35 In tent. Fine clear;
nice land-breeze. Rush
of wind at two a.m. Wind
at four a.m. Loud noise
of reef.
1.30p.m. 30.04 - 80 76 68 28 In big tent, opening to
south. Quite clear and
bright. No clouds.
Slight sea-breeze.
3p.m. 30.02 - 80 79 70 26 Hot and still.
Night glorious. No wind. Only sigh and sound of reef.
Jan. 28. 7a.m. 29.98 - 58 58 53 30 Perfectly still and
clear. Light land-
breeze.
12.45p.m.30.00 - 80 78 66 20 Weather breaking. Clouds
forming everywhere. High
horizontal cirri. North
wind, whistling over
country.
3p.m. 29.98 - 80 79 67 20 Packed up wet and dry
bulbs.
At sunset high streaky cirri of red colour: all said wind. Same as at Magháir
Shúayb (January 21-23). At eleven p.m. El-Ayli (north wind from 'Akabat-
Aylah?) came down upon us with a rush. Gravel like drops of rain. Tents at
once on the ground. Sky still clear—stars shining.
Jan. 29. 7.15a.m.30.02 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Wind
violent. Cold and raw
between moonrise and
sunrise.
Noon. 30.04 - 81 - - 13 In tent-hut. Wind (El-
Ayli) gusty and violent.
Sky quite clear.
They say this gale denotes end of Zamharir ("great cold"). Wind fell about
three p.m. Mild at sunset. Wind then increased, and became very violent at
night (l0-11 p.m.); seems to beat down from above. Summit of quartz-hills, 2
obs. = 29.40
Jan. 30 7a.m. 30.06 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Mountains
perfectly clear. Fleecy
clouds to north and
south, sailing from west
to east.
3p.m. 30.06 - 72 - - 15 Clear and fine. Wind
falling.
Wind fell during afternoon and evening, but rose again at night; was at its
worst about eleven p.m.
Jan. 31. 7a.m. 30.06 - 67 - - 22 In tent-but. Wind worse;
signs of blowing
everywhere. Light clouds
north and south. Mottled
clouds (cirri, mackerel-
back). Gusts violent
after sunrise.
Noon. 30.08 - 73 - - 19 In cabin on board
Mukhbir. Wind violent.
Sky clear. White clouds,
as yet wind increasing.
Sand and dust but
mountains clear.
3p.m. 30.09 - 78 - - 22 On board Mukhbir. Wind
violent. Sky covered
with grey clouds.
At sunset, gleams to west and round horizon; heavy to north. Hoped for rain,
but none came. Fires alight all night. Very bad night; perhaps the worst yet
seen. Chain dragging. At nine p.m. sky clear, but wind worse.
AT MAKNÁ, ON BOARD "MUKHBIR."
Feb. 1. 7a.m. 30.08 - 70 - - 21 Wind worse than ever.
Dark cirri to south.
Mountains clear on all
sides.
Noon. 30.06 - 74 70 63 21 Wind very bad, turning
to east (?). Cirri
everywere: to west
formed ascending rays
like sun, extending to
zenith; to east were
crosses and lozenges.
3p.m 30.04 - - 70 65 - Wind still bad. White
clouds have thickened to
south, and thinned to
north. Bases of
mountains blurred (by
dust?); summits clear.
At sunset wind lighter. Dark clouds to south, going westward from Suez. Cirri
overhead, presently disappeared; also about the horizon. At night fine
zodiacal light. Wind increased. Observations in main cabin throughout voyage.
Feb. 2. 7a.m. 30.00 - 69 70 65 22 Perfectly clear. Wind
worse.
Noon. 30.00 - 78 - - 21 Clear sky; only cloud,
thin white strata to
north.
3p.m. 29.04 - 75 73 63 19 No clouds. Wind milder.
Barometer falling (sign
of wind ceasing?). Wind
getting warmer, and
bending east.
Wind less in evening, and warmer; ceased about midnight; lasted from eleven
p.m., January 28, to midnight, February 2 = five days and five nights.
Zodiacal light.
Feb. 3. 7a.m. 29.93 - 56 65 56 20 On deck (wet and dry
bulbs in main cabin).
Fresh breeze from east.
Fleecy clouds south and
east.
Noon. 29.96 - 74 - - 25 On deck. Fine breeze
from north.
In evening cirri to west and east. Black dots in regular lines. Night at Minat
Jinái. Very fine and clear; young moon and Venus. Deadly still. Zodiacal light
seen every night in the 'Akabah Gulf: not outside it.
Feb. 4. 7a.m. 29.92 - 74 70 67 24 En route to Nuwaybi',
along Sinai shore.
Morning grey; light
clouds everywhere. Dull
brassy sunrise. Water
dark. Wind south, felt
very damp. Sinai hills
clouded over: cirri
strata high up; nimbi in
fragments below.
Noon. 29.86 - 74 73 68 28 Under awning on board;
going north. Sickly sun.
Cirri to east.
3p.m. 29.80 - 75 73 66 26 Main cabin South wind
strong, increased after
noon. Clear horizon
then. Sea foaming: wind
became very strong, and
raised water about
sunset, then fell.
A regular day of south wind, blasts, mists, and gusts; calmed down in evening.
Quiet night. All day cirri and strata high up from west. Wásit sand forming
cloud.
Feb. 5. 7a.m. 30.00 - 72 68 60 9 En route to Kaláh
(Jezirat Faráun of
maps), in main cabin.
Wind north. Clouds on
hill-tops and to north—
effects of yesterday.
East mountains misty;
west clear. Mottle of
clouds.
Noon. 29.94 - 73 70 61 7 On deck, steaming north.
Dry and wet bulbs in
main cabin. Clouds—
light cumuli to north,
east, and west; south
clear. Wind north,
light.
3p.m. 29.97 - 75 70 59 19 In main cabin off island
El-Kaláh. Violent gusts
from west, down valleys-
-deflection of south
wind, lasted only few
minutes. Cloudy and
clear.
Night clear. Violent gusts from south, lasting a few minutes, then still.
ON BOARD "MUKHBIR," OFF ISLAND EL-KALÁH.
Feb. 6. 7a.m. 30.12 - 70 66 59 15 In main cabin. A regular
raw and gloomy English
morning. Clouds
everywhere—drops of
rain. Wind south,
deflected west. Gusts at
times. All felt damp and
uncomfortable.
Noon. 30.10 - 70 65 59 26 In main cabin. Sky all
covered with clouds.
Wind from north, gusty.
Barometer rising.
3p.m. 30.12 - 66 68 60 21 In main cabin. Sky
covered; gleams of sun.
Clear to south. Wind
north, mild.
A few drops of rain morning and evening. Pleasant quiet night.
Feb. 7. 6a.m. 30.13 - - 62 57 19 In main cabin. Still;
fresh air; no wind.
Heavy clouds from west,
covering east-west
mountains. West mottled;
north and south clear.
3p.m. 30.10 - 71 66 62 25 In main cabin. Cool
breeze. Hot sun. Cloudy
and clear.
Drops of rain at sunset. Wind west. Heavy rain twice at night; after midnight
wetted deck. Rain at 'Akabah from west, with clouds and winds.
FROM EL-'AKABAIT, GOING SOUTH.
Rise of tide off El-'Akabah town, one foot.
Feb. 8. 7a.m. 30.20 - 56 63 61 3 On deck. Dry and wet
bulbs in main cabin. At
sunrise heavy purple
clouds drifting over
plain, covering hills on
both sides. Cold, raw,
wet wind. Rain on Sinai
to north-west and south-
west. Saw rainbow. Wind
gradually turning to
east (favourable). Play
of light and shade over
plains and hills.
Noon. 30.15 - 65 64 57 22 In main cabin. Glorious
day. Blue sky; bluer
sea. Strong breeze.
Cloudy and clear.
3p.m. 30.16 - 67 65 58 25 In main cabin. After
noon wind gradually
fell, and sky cleared;
became much warmer.
Steamer (five and a half
knots) beat the sailing
tender. North perfectly
clear; south and east,
fleecy clouds. Sun clear
and warm.
At sunset red cirri. Wind increased greatly. Waves following us, high and
hollow. Bad night. Wind and water high. At midnight(?), rode with head to
gale. February 9th, four a.m., turned south. Six a.m. stood for Makná (right
angles, and nearly "turned turtle").
ON BOARD "MUKHBIR."
Feb. 9. 7a.m. 30.22 - - 64 26 26 In main cabin, off Sharm
Dabbah. Sky quite clear.
North wind colder than
ever, yet we are going
south. Beginning of
dangerous gale which
lasted till February
13th. Ugly hollow sea.
1p.m. 30.15 - - 66 58 28 In main cabin. Out of
'Akabah Gulf. Passed
into a summer sea. Under
lee of Tirán. On deck 63
degrees (F.).
3p.m. 30.11 - - 69 59 27 In main cabin, rounding
south of Jezirat Tirán.
Sky all clear, except
wind cirri over 'Akabah
Gulf and to west.
At nine p.m. halo round moon, and far from it—bad sign! Before midnight gusts
began. Increased at one a.m. (February 10). At four a.m. very violent north
wind from El-'Akabah.
Feb. 10 7a.m. 30.07 - - 69 65 30 In cabin of Mukhbir,
south of Tirán. Water
ruffled. Clouds
everywhere. Rain on the
coast. Felt raw. Mottled
sky.
Noon. 30.03 - - 72 64 38 In cabin at Tirán. Sun
out at nine a.m. Clouds
and clear. Windy sky.
Cirri to west and north-
west. Dark clouds to
leeward.
3p.m. 29.94 - - 74 65 25 In cabin at Tirán. Rain-
storm to south-west.
Wind north. Sky cloudy
and clear. Cool breeze,
not high.
At four p.m. a few large drops fell. Heavy rain at El-'Akabah and on east
coast. Sand-veil over Sinaitic shore. Six p.m., wind gusty. Rain-clouds all
over coast. Wind becoming warm. At 1.15 a.m. (February 11), terrible rush and
fall of rain. Wind westing. Mild at first. Five a.m., hard Gharbi, threatening
Azyab. All mist—could hardly see the shore.
Feb. 11. 7a.m. 29.82 - - 71 67 35 To windward of Tirán.
Howling west wind. Sun
like pale cheese.
Aneroid falling. After
seven a.m. the storm
broke, and we narrowly
escaped a wreck in two
places, Tirán and
Sináfir. Crisis of gale.
Noon. 29.80 - - 70 60 30 In Sináfir port, main
cabin. Wind west,
bending to south on
falling.
3p.m. 28.20 - - 72 65 24 In main cabin. Mist and
sand. English sun. Wind
west and warm. Sea green
and breaking.
At five p.m. the sand-mist began to clear off. Wind died away, then turned
north and north-north-east. Light scud over moon, going slowly. Patches of
blue, and stars. Barometer rising fast. Perfectly still night till midnight,
when it began to blow, about the setting of the moon. At Suez, during the
gale, red dust prevented ships seeing one another; and at Cairo trees were
uprooted.
AT SINÁFIR ISLAND.
Feb. 12 " 30.13 - - 68 62 31 In main cabin. At 3.30
a.m. a violent Ayli,
like that of El-'Akabah,
began to blow. Gusts and
shivering water. Swept
off all sand-fog.
Noon. 30.17 - - 73 64 27 In main cabin. Howling
wind. Sea less, because
of ebb. Breeze fresh.
Sky clear to south; few
white clouds to north-
east and west. Sun
bright and warm.
3p.m. 30.14 - - 75 65 24 In cabin. Wind violent
as ever, and cold from
north.
During the night the wind blew from all possible directions; north-east, and
at one time due west.
LEFT SINÁFIR FOR SOUTH.
Feb. 13. " 30.18 - - 66 60 36 In main cabin. Howling
north wind till four
a.m., then milder.
Hardly a speck of cloud.
Fresh cool air from
north. Sea very blue.
All sail set. Mist-
clouds on tallest peaks
of coast-range. Wind
diminished as we went
south. Cirri everywhere,
zenith and on horizon.
Noon. 30.12 - - 69 59 26 On deck. Soft pleasant
air; before cold and
hard. Influence of
El'Akabah. Thermometer
on deck 69 degrees (F.).
3p.m 30.10 - - 71 62 20 On board. Sky milky
everywhere with cirri.
Wind north-west, going
west.
Red sunset. Distant halo round moon—cleared off soon (a good sign), and not
well marked. Light westerly gale (No. 2).
AT SHARM YÁHÁRR.
Feb. 14. 7a.m. 30.06 - - 64 58 22 In cabin (open).
Splendid morning. Wind
west, set in hard before
noon. Milk-and-water
sky. Should have been
kept at Sináfir.
Noon. 30.04 - - 71 60 20 West wind increased. Sky
clear; but SHÁRR
Mountains cloudy—
condensing moisture.
3p.m. 30.02 - - 71 60 20 In cabin. North-west
wind strong. Moved ship.
Heavy black clouds on
mountains.
ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" AT SHARM YÁHÁRR.
Feb 15. " 30.10 - - 66 58 30 In cabin.
Noon. 30.13 - 72 - - 35 In cabin.
3p.m. 30.14 - 75 - - 26 On deck. Clouds above
the mountains.
Cold north-west breeze at five p.m. Sea high. Aneroid observations at Sulphur
Mountain—foot, 30.14; top, 29.90; difference .24 = 250 feet.
Feb. 16. 7.30a.m. 30.23 - - 63 55 20 In cabin. Aneroid
unusually high. Clear
and cloudy at mountains.
Cool air and light
breeze.
12.50p.m. 30.23- - 64 55 20 Cool. Wind north. In
cabin.
3p.m. 30.20 - - 66 56 18 In cabin. Cool. No
clouds.
Splendid night. Not a sign of cloud. Cool. White streak on the water (milky
sea, like that of Bombay, caused by fish?). Finest weather yet seen.
ON BOARD "MUKHBIR."
Feb. 17. 6a.m. 30.17 - 66 - - 15 In cabin. Cool, clear,
splendid. Forenoon warm
and still. Sea glassy.
Noon. 30.16 - 74 - - 20 In cabin. Sea-breeze
came up strong at eleven
a.m.
3p.m. 30.13 - - - - 23 In cabin. Sky clouded
all the afternoon—did
not see the sun. Moon
veiled—not a nice look.
Night very cold (shivery). Wind Barri ("land-breeze").
IN MESS-TENT, OPEN TO EAST.
Feb. 18. 6.30a.m. 30.00 - 61 - - 14 Cold and clear. Land-
breeze.
Noon. 30.04 - 78 - - 33 Sea-breeze setting;
land-breeze stopped. Sky
perfectly clear. Sun
hot. No end of flies.
3p.m. 30.04 - 78 - - 22 Fierce and violent west
wind—a Gharbi, or
exaggerated sea-breeze?
Sky quite clear.
Night quite still. Cold wind stopped at nine p.m. rather suddenly.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING SECOND MARCH TO THE HIMSÁ PLATEAU, SOUTH-EASTERN
MIDIAN, BETWEEN FEBRUARY 19 AND MARCH 8, 1878.

The distance traversed comprised 222-1/4 statute miles, mostly through
unexplored country.
On return compared aneroids:—
French .............................. 763 millimetres.
My Casella .......................... 762 "
Difference .......................... .001 "
Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks.
Inches. (deg.)(deg.)
Feb. 19. 6.20a.m. 30.07 65 23 In big tent at El-Muwaylah. Cool land-
breeze. Sky quite clear.
Noon. 29.82 74 23 At Wady Surr, under tree in sea-breeze.
Clear sky, few white clouds. Cold land-
breeze in Wady Surr at ten a.m.; cold sea-
breeze at eleven a.m.
3.40p.m. 29.60 76 20 At Safh Wady Malayh (Malih), in big tent.
Feels as if high up.
Night perfectly still, except a gust about midnight.
Feb. 20. 6.25a.m. 29.53 60 21 In big tent at Safh Wady Malayh. Clear and
fine.
11.20a.m.29.40 73 43 Under tree at base of western Gháts. Fine
cool sea-breeze.
3p.m. 29.44 78 17 At Sayl Wady el-Jimm ("water-gathering").
Hot sun. Cold sea-breeze.
Night cold, with land-breeze.
Feb. 21. 6.15a.m. 29.38 64 7 In big tent at Sayl Wady el-Jimm. Clouds
to north and east; air damp. High wind and
clouds.
12.45p.m.28.82 71 25 On march up Wady Sadr, under tree. Cold
sea-breeze. Sky quite clear; sun warm.
Awful east winds down these Wadys form the
Goz or sand-heaps.
3.30p.m. 28.86 76 7 In small tent at El-Nagwah, in Wady Sadr.
Sun hot; breeze cold.
Night cold, but not so cold as we expected.
Feb. 22. 6a.m. 28.86 56 8 In big tent at El-Nagwah.
11.50a.m.25.40 65 4 Under tree in Wady Sadr; say, 1600 feet
high. White clouds. West wind (sea-breeze
deflected to north) blowing. Here cold
comes from wind.
3p.m. 27.80 74 3 In big tent at Amwáh el-Rikáb, Wady Sadr.
At four p.m. cold and clouds; cumuli and cirri. West wind deflected to north.
At five p.m. thermometer in tent 66 degrees. Fire in tent. Night cold, clear,
and still. A few gusts about midnight.
AT HEAD OF WADY SADR.
Feb. 23. 6.30a.m. 27.80 53 5 In big tent foot of Gháts. Weather lovely-
-clear, fine, and cold. At eight a.m. sun
warm, then cold wind.
1.30p.m. 26.88 72 5 In big tent. Cold easterly gale.
4p.m. 26.90 65 2 In small tent, same place.
Violent wind at midnight. Cold; thermometer 38 degrees.
Feb. 24. 6a.m. 26.95 48 0 At head of Wady Sadr.
26.15 45 0 To summit of Khuraytat el-Jils (Pass).
Above the Pass, aneroid 26.25; below,
26.70: difference, .55 = 450 feet. Walked
down in twenty-six minutes.
11.30a.m.26.18 56 0 In the open, under shade. Perfectly clear
of clouds. Sun hot.
3p.m. 26.26 66 -2 In big tent on Hismá plateau (short
descent to camping-ground). Air clear; sun
hot.
Very cold when sun sets. Gusts from east at night.
ON HIMSÁ PLATEAU.
Feb. 25. 6.30a.m. 26.30 42 3 In big tent.
12.30p.m.27.84 74 12 At foot of Khuraytat el-Jils. Still, no
wind; no clouds.
3.30p.m. 27.83 78 17 No wind; no clouds.
Night splendidly clear and still. Felt warm.
Feb. 26. 6a.m. 27.72 64 2 In big tent on Hismá plateau. Glorious
orange-coloured dawn. Mild north wind.
Moon in last quarter. At eight a.m. good
breeze from north; at eleven a.m. cool and
pleasant breeze from east.
Noon. 28.00 70 -8 On march in Shafah Mountains. Hot sun.
Cold wind.
3p.m. 28.30 85 -4 Camp Majrá el-Ruways. In small tent.
Strong west breeze in gusts.
Night glorious at foot of the two Passes.
Feb. 27. 6a.m. 28.10 65 -4 On ground outside tent at Majrá el-Ruways.
Sky overhead quite clear; a few flecks to
south, low clouds to east. At 8.30 a.m.
wind south. Sun at first hot; then sky
cloudy.
11.45a.m.28.48 80 3 At El-Rahabah, head of Wady Dámah, under
tree. Fine sea-breeze. High white strata
to north-east and south. No clouds
elsewhere.
5p.m. 28.56 76 -5 Under thorn-tree at Wady Dámah. Fleeting
cirro-cumuli.
Night very cold. Not a sign of dew till we returned on board Mukhbir.
Feb. 28. 6a.m. 28.50 44 -5 At Wady Dámah, on box in open. Clouds and
sea-breeze at 8.45 a.m.
1p.m. 28.29 70 19 Under tree at Shuwák ruin. Thermometer in
sun, 82 degrees. Bits of cumuli from
south. At two p.m. furious wind and dust
(sand-devils) scouring up valley from
south, also deflected to west by Pass
gorge. "Sand-devils" in Wadys Surr, Sadr,
Dámah, Shuwák, and Salmá.
3p.m. 28.19 71 16 In big tent.
A few gusts during early part of night; the rest very still. Cold and clear.
AT SHUWÁK RUIN.
Mar. 1. 6.45a.m. 25.30 46 10 Very cold; hands chilled. Land-breeze at
eight a.m. At barrage (dam), aneroid
28.36.
Noon. 28.37 76 17 In small tent. Noon hot. Wind gusty—not
regular and strong as yesterday.
3p.m. 28.34 77 6 In small tent. Sky clear; air still and
sultry.
Mar. 2. 6a.m. 28.30 58 11 In big tent at Shuwák. Air still. Clouds
to east. Afterwards sky mottled, windy
striae. At seven a.m. rainbow without
rain; thin cloud north of sun;
perpendicular streak, brilliant enough:
lasted twenty minutes.
9a.m. 28.75 66 - At Shaghab ruin. Sea-breeze at eleven a.m.
Clear and cool. Day slightly cloudy; sun
partly hidden.
3p.m. 28.60 86 15 In big tent at Majrá el-Wághir. Mild sea-
breeze. Hot sun. High clouds.
Night windless, except few occasional gusts. Stars veiled. Grand zodiacal
light (now the regular thing). Cool and pleasant.
Mar. 3. 6a.m. 28.55 66 14 At Majrá el-Wághir, outside tent. Sky
cloudy; mist to north, "mackerel's back"
to east. Sea-breeze at 9.30 a.m. in Wady
Dámah.
Noon. 29.13 75 26 Under tree in Wady Dámah. Cool wind from
south-west. A few clouds, getting
gradually darker to west and south-west.
4p.m. 29.20 78 15 At El-Kutayyifah (camp) under a tree. Cool
south-west wind.
6a.m. 29.30 63 16 Cold north wind. Sea-breeze at nine a.m,
In big tent at El-Kutayyifab.
Mar. 4. 11.30a.m. 29.33 68 11 In shade of rock, Umm ámil.
4p.m. 29.63 80 10 In small tent at Má el-Badi'h, Wady Salmá.
Cold, stiff gale: dust-laden sea-breeze up
the ugly gorge.
5.45a.m. 29.50 60 13 At Má el-Badi'h, on box in open air. Air
clear; thin threads to south.
Mar. 5. 12.30p.m. 30.06 84 -3 At Zibá, in big tent, open east and west,
fronting the bay.
2.45p.m. 30.00 82 4 At Zibá, in small tent.
AT ZIBÁ, IN CAMP (our second halt).
Mar. 6. 6a.m. 29.92 61 15 In big tent. Rather heavy clouds to east
and elsewhere. Sea-breeze began at ten
a.m.
Noon. 30.04 86 10 In big tent. Air dull and heavy. "Rain-
sun."
3.45p.m. 30.00 81 3 Sky quite clear.
Storm at sunset. Heavy clouds rising over arch from west to north: all said
meant wind. At seven p.m. violent gusty gale; nearly blew down tents. Rushing
and furious rain from north-west. Gusts lasted long. Fell about eleven p.m.
Rose again very violently at midnight; then blew itself out. Followed by cold
air. Rain lasted about one hour; damped the ground, and left deep puddles in
the rock-hollows.
Never had thunder and lightning in Midian.
Mar. 7. 6a.m. 31.12 58 15 At Zibá, on box. Cold and clear. A few
clouds to west.
11.30a.m.29.96 74 19 At Jebel el Ghál, in shade in the open.
Fine west wind.
Night and morning cold. On summit of Jebel el-Ghál, aneroid 29.75.
Mar. 8. 6a.m. 30.04 51 11 At Máyat el-Ghál (camp), on box.
March 8th is the 30th (last day of) Imshir (February), 1094.
March 9th is the 1st of Barmáhát (March). See Chap. I. p. 22.
In the early days of Barmáhát they expect the Husum or violent wind which
destroyed the tribe of Ad.
After seven nights and eight days begins the Bard el-Agúz, or "old man's
cold."
On Barmáhát 12 (March 20) is the Intikál el-Shams, or "vernal equinox;" after
which the weather becomes warmer.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" IN SHARM YÁHÁRR, BETWEEN MARCH 8 AND
MARCH 12, 1878.