The History of Java, v. 1-2

by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles

Near Buitenzorg, and also at Récha Dómas, a few miles further inland, both places adjacent to the site of the ancient capital of Pajajáran, are found several rude images in stone, and among them a figure with three faces (trimúrti). Images of the same kind, as well as casts in metal, are also found in Chéribon. The latter are particularly prized by the chiefs of Telága, who are descended from the princes of Pajajáran, and consider these relics as representations of their forefathers. In the possession of the present Tumúng'gung of Telága is an ancient manuscript written on Javan paper, and folded up in the manner of the manuscripts of Ava. The characters appear to be ancient Javan or Káwi, but ill written. This manuscript contains drawings of deities, of the signs of the Zodiac, and numerous other astronomical, or perhaps rather astrological devices[223]. Of the history of the manuscript nothing is known, further than that the Tumúng'gung and his family believe it to have come with the relics before-mentioned from Pajajáran. A copy of it has been brought to England.

Besides the extensive remains of temples and other edifices already mentioned in the districts east of Chéribon, where alone the antiquities deserve attention as works of art, there are to be found on the mountains of Ung'árang the ruins of several very beautifully executed temples in stone, with numerous dilapidated figures, and among them several chariots of Súría, or the sun. Most of them are sadly mutilated, but enough was left to authorize a sketch of their original design[224].

The Chándi Banyukúning (yellow water), which are so called from their vicinity to the village of that name, are situated within a few yards of a small volcanic crater, which at the time I visited them was in many parts too hot to be trodden with safety. They appear to have been built on extensive terraces cut out of the mountain, and rising one above another at intervals of some hundred yards. The natives assert, that the temples were formerly far more extensive, and that near the summit of several of the adjoining peaks other temples are to be found. But here, as in most parts of Java, the mountains for a considerable way below the summit have been covered for ages, with an almost impenetrable forest: and where this is not the case, the mountains have either been rent near their summit, or are covered with lava or ashes from volcanic eruptions, so that whatever may have formerly been the extent and grandeur of the edifices which once crowned these towering heights, they are at present either concealed or more frequently destroyed. Notwithstanding the diligent search made by the British during the short period of their stay on Java, there are doubtless many very interesting discoveries to be made.

In Banyuwángi, the most eastern province of the island, besides figures of Hindu deities, several others are to be found of extraordinary and grotesque appearance, which appear to represent the local deities of the island, and corresponding with those which are still worshipped on Báli. But whether they are to be considered as the deities of the Javans or Bálians is doubtful, as the Bálians long had possession of this province; and it is remarkable, that no such figures are to be found in the provinces further westward.

The traditions of the country concerning the former seats of government, enable us to trace at this day the site of Médang Kamûlan, Jang'gála, Gegélang or Sínga Sári, Dahá or Kedíri, Pajajâran, and Majapáhit, existing in remains of immense tanks, heaps of building materials, and other unequivocal vestiges of former cities.

Médang Kamúlan[225] was situated in the district of Wirasába, where in the centre of an extensive forest is pointed out the site of the Setíngel, distinguished by heaps of stones and bricks; and at no great distance from it are the walls and excavations of an extensive tank, several hundred feet in length and breadth. These ruins, of which little more can be said than that they are clearly discernible, are situated between Penwadádos and the most eastern of the volcanic wells alluded to in a former part of this work. The natives have a superstition, that the site of this ancient capital cannot be visited without some misfortune attaching to the party who undertake the visit. Those whom I had, with some difficulty, induced to accompany me to the spot, did not fail to assure me that I should lose my government within the year. As the event justified the prediction, it is probable that the superstition has rather gained ground than otherwise. Many Javans maintain, that Brambánan was the original of Médang Kamúlan; it is at least highly probable that it was once the seat of empire.

The site of Jang'gála is still pointed out in the district of that name in the division of Surabáya, and the country around is strewed with antiquities. The same may be said of Síng'a Sári and Kedíri. At Pajajáran, a heap of stones is pointed out as the ruin of the Setíngel, and numerous lines crossing the country between rivers, attest the care with which this position was entrenched. They may be seen close by the road side, at a few hundred yards from the governor-general's country residence, and in many places they have been cut through to make a passage for the high road.

At Majapáhit, in the district of Wirasába, the marks of former grandeur are more manifest. Here the walls of the tank, upwards of a thousand feet in length, and not less than six hundred in breadth, are quite perfect. They are of burnt brick, and about twelve feet high. The whole area of the tank, when I visited it, was one sheet of beautiful rice cultivation, and almost surrounded by a noble forest of teak.

A village adjacent is called Tra Wúlan, or Tráng Wúlan (the light of the moon): here we found the tomb of Pútri Chámpa. Proceeding through three regular squares, each enclosed with a wall, and in each of which were erected several pendápas or sheds, we came to the interior on ascending a few steps. On the right side of this enclosure, and elevated a few feet, was the tomb of the princess and her nurse; the tomb being in the Mahomedan style, and having upon it, in ancient Javan characters, the date 1320, perfectly distinct and in relief. On the other side are the tombs of Kiái Tumúng'gung Jáya Báya, Den Mas, and nine other chiefs whose names are mentioned. The tomb is religiously guarded by several priests.

The ruins of the palace and several gateways of burnt brick are to be seen; but the whole country, for many miles, is thickly covered with a stately teak forest, which appears to have been the growth of ages, so that it is difficult to trace the outline of this former capital. Ruins of temples, mostly executed in brick, are scattered about the country for many miles, and attest the extent and grandeur of this "pride of Java."