29.—GALLABAT to WAD MEDANI, viâ RIVER RAHAD.[17]

By Captain C. H. Lewin, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
GallabatRoute follows that to Gedaref as far asKhor Otruk.
Khor Otruk66Road here diverges toW., crossing Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor to right of trackunder large ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up valley through somecultivation passing village of Sultan.
Khor Yabis½
Sultan½7Well in course of construction. Water notyet (March, 1902) found at 30 feet, but said to be near.
Road winds on through forest, up valley,high wooded hills on either side, crosses spurs and khors. Owing toloose stones and steep gradients, camels can only do 2½ miles anhour.
Ras El Fil310Track passes over low pass close underthis hill, which is highest point of N. ridge, and descendsgradually to
Wallak12½Wallak, a scattered village of Kunjaras,one well 40 feet, fair water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of cotton,and fair amount of other cultivation. Road proceeds over more leveland open country, red gravel soil, and rises to a neck just S. ofKabushi.
Jebel Kabushi113½A conical grasscovered hill. Path descends sharply to water in hollow to right oftrack, but nearly empty by middle of March.
Water114½
Karnakala½15Village of Kunjaras. About 12 acres ofcotton and considerable amount of other cultivation. Two wells inkhor just under village, water at 6 feet good and plentiful. Rakubaby wells under ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru said he was asoldier with Gordon Pasha.
Track passes through village, turning S.just outside for a short distance.
Going not too good, stony, and as path isonly used by donkeys, is narrow for camels, who stumble a gooddeal.
Khor Abu Jamfa318Open khor; small amount of water inholes.
Kuka220Village of Kunjaras. Water comes out ofrock at bottom of deep rocky khor, which is overhung by largetebeldi tree of about 10 feet diameter. Road winds S. and then W.again, passing villages of Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mileinterval. These draw their water from a deep rocky khor half waybetween Kuka and Basunda. Good rakubas at all of them.
Babikr626Going improves as this village isreached. Road still winds through forest country. Very little waterleft in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh describes this as half-waybetween Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to S.W. and going becomesvery bad again. Cotton soil, which gives under camels as they goalong. Track very indistinct in places.
Domajura935Road winds between 2 stony low hills ofthis name. On W. side a well dug in the rock said to have been madeby Sheik Saleh Bey, formerly of Gallabat. No water now, and a badsmell emanates from it.
Hag Bakhit338Track passes over low rocky column ofthis name. One mile N.W. is ruined Deim of brother of Saleh Bey. Itlies on top of hill named Zurga.
Meshra Sirri or Abid (?)947Track gradually descends to River Rahadpassing a few stony hillocks. Bad going, over cotton soil all theway. Meshra 2 miles N. of steep rocky hill Jebel Surur.
Good camping ground in zeriba. A certainnumber of nomad inhabitants who come down to fish appear to makethis a halting place. Water clear, good, and pool deep. Swarms withfish and crocodile, and from tracks appear to be favourite wateringplace of much game, including elephant and lion.
From Babikr there cannot be said to beany defined track. The way is shown by blazed trees and stumps oftrees cut down by clearing party. The whole way practically is badgoing, both for camels and donkeys, owing to rotten black cottonsoil. Camels go at a slow walk only. From Kuka onwards the route iswaterless, but there are plenty of likely looking places wherewater might be found if wells were dug.
From Meshra Sirri, route runs roughlyN.W. along right bank of Rahad, it is marked by blazed trees hereand there. At times going very bad over cotton soil. Camels getalong with difficulty at slow walk. Sometimes going is good, butonly for short time.
Meshra Kakamut11¾58¾Plenty of water in pool; good shade;zeriba; banks very steep down to water and difficult forcamels.
Meshra Myat Bringi60¼Track rises on to a broad low bank byriverside, which is evidently an island when river is inflood.
Meshra Ghaba Susa62½Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, smallamount, and very green.
Bendego65¼Zeriba and meshra. Banks very steep downto water. Quarter mile further on the track passes group of 11 verylarge tebeldi trees, one of which has diameter 21 feet.
Meshra tebeldi71¾Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, water ¼mile up stream, very steep bank and not much shade.
Meshra Sangafut374¾Sangafut, an island in stream when riveris in flood. Pool ¼ mile up stream. Banks steep down to pool. Goodshade just above. Meshra not at all apparent from road. Zeriba canbe seen from road, is built on the bank and is half way betweenwater and island of Sangafut. Water plentiful.
Between this and Ghaba Susa track passesacross several shallow khors but no water in them.
Meshra Deresa82¼Half a mile from meshra, and zeriba trackstrikes river at spot where broad belt of long grass intervenesbetween it and river bed. Follows curve of river round on highground to zeriba, which is at a spot on the curve where the riveris running from N.E. to S.W. Very steep path down to waterimmediately to W. end of zeriba, which was impossible for camels,but one just possible ¼ mile E. of zeriba. Water plentiful in pooland good. From here on trees decrease in size and become lessdense. Guide said this was formerly a large village and a battalionwas stationed here, which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 or 40 yearsago. The place was destroyed by Dervishes. The town was ½ mile N.W.of meshra and zeriba. Several lions heard here.
Wad Betul84¾Meshra, no zeriba, road immediately abovestream, and country much more open here. From here blazing of treesis discontinued, and direction has to be kept (1902) by compass andstream. Rate of progress cannot be reckoned at more than 2 milesper hour.
Khor Semsem92¼Broad shelving grass-grown khor runningin direction from N.E. to S.W. runs into river here. Bad meshrajust N.W. of it, little shade, and very steep banks. Water green.1½ miles from Semsem the river bed widens and becomes muddy—untilnow it has always been sandy—very good grass grows on the part fromwhich water has receded.
Island (name unknown)395¼River doubles back and runs nearly S.E.and flows round an island. Track follows several broad and verygrassy and bushy khors which caused wide détours.
97½Good spot for camp immediately above alarge pool. Banks steep and thickly wooded, though immediate siteof camp clear.
The island seems to come to an end about¼ mile further down stream. From here the track becomes plainagain, the tree felling and blazing is regular and systematical,and easily followed. Going improves and camels can occasionallytrot. Country becomes more open and track crosses several shallowkhors.
Meshra Abrakuba6103½Track strikes river at a broad re-entrantbend. Plentiful supply of water and gently shelving banks easy forany animals to water. Good camping and grazing ground by theriver.
ShammamA small tukl village of Dinka colonists.Sheikh Dik Malek. Is situated to left of track on rising groundamong trees above river. Dura cultivation shows its presence atsome distance from the track, from which it is itself invisible.Poor supplies; a little dura was obtained after some difficulty.Water good and plentiful.
From here track bends inland from rivercrossing the shallow khors of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track isindistinct and hard to follow owing to clearing having been done inmost erratic fashion. Camels have to proceed at a walk. After 7½miles track, strikes the river again, which is dry here, and isrunning round a large island, Geziret Fatna. Two miles further oncomes
Meshra Geziret Fatna119A large shallow pool rapidly drying up.Track runs along this pool for about 1 mile over rough going wherethe two branches of the river round Geziret Fatna re-unite andtrack strikes N. and then trends round to river again, striking itat Wad El Kashedi.
Wad El Kashedi121½A good pool, but banks steep, looks as ifan old canal formerly ran into river from W. Jebel Mogadad appearsin distance in E. direction. Going still bad. Cotton soil, butfewer trees.
Track follows close to river bank, wateroccasionally in pools, but banks steep. Two miles from Hawata trackimproves and enters belt of trees through which it is well cleared.Some cultivation about in cleared patches.
Hawata129Fair-sized tukl village of Hamadas. Fairsupplies and good pool of water immediately beside village. Trackfrom here improves greatly. It is well cleared and camels can trot.The journey from Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of 4 out of 5camels so badly that they were unable to proceed further. BetweenMeshra Sirri and Hawata game very plentiful. Numerous tracks ofelephants; lions were heard each night. Giraffe seen twice. Arielfrequently seen in enormous herds of over 100. North of Hawata nomore lions or elephants, and ariel became scarce. I saw nativescoursing gazelle, and they say they hunt a good deal.
Girbu2131From Hawata, track winds through treesand long grass to small tukl village on river bank with somescattered tukls further on. Country opens out into large grassplains dotted with bushes and clumps of trees.
Nuwar8139A small tukl village to left of tracksome way back from river. Jebel Beila at right angles to track,N.E.
Wadi Nagami3142A new tukl village of Hamadas rapidlyspringing up. Over 30 tukls already built. People said to bereturning from khors and jebels round. A few sheep, no camels.
Mafasa1143Another rapidlyincreasing village of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls shown. There arenow over 30 new ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no camels. About ¼mile from river. A little dura cultivated. From here, track passesthrough grass plains and trees for 3 miles, and then gets intothick bush country for another 3 miles, rising slowly the wholetime till it suddenly emerges on top of cleared, broken, andhillocky ground, from which it descends sharply into and crossesthe river bed which is dry here. After crossing the river trackturns S.W. following round S. edge of a dry shallow branch of theriver, which is lined thickly on either bank by good-sized treesthrough which path winds and gradually works round to N.E.direction.
Abraham6149
Muttu5154Meshra and various shifting tuklvillages, some inhabited, some deserted. People appear to come hereto build tukls before the rains begin, sow and reap dura on openspaces between the trees, and then move on. From here track is welldefined though crossed by numerous other tracks. Trees, except onimmediate river bank, cease.
Karakeila¾154¾Meshra, track to it branches off toright.
Abbas159¼Meshra, invisible from the path. Goodpool and shade; from this, track resumes N.W. direction.
Bir el Gamal16¾176Road forks here into an eye shape. Goodmeshra and distinct road down to it. It is under high trees whichshow on N. side of track on river bank about ¼ mile off.
Ghabat180½Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. JebelArang is sighted bearing N.E.
5185½A track turns off N.E. to Jebel Arang,and one bears to left running direct to Hafar. Main track leads onto Meshra Kheiari.
Meshra Kheiari192A good meshra with fair shade. Meshra ElGelma at 191½ mile found dry. Large numbers of camels about heregrazing. From here, track to Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runsnearly due W. on leaving the river, trees and shrubs soon cease andcotton soil plain is crossed to Kheiari a deserted village of about40 tukls; a deep well of about 6 feet diameter has been dug, but isnow dry. Track continues W. over plain, ground rising slightly toHafar.
Hafeira196½Large tukl village over 100 tukls allwell built. Inhabited by different tribes: Jaalin (few) Hawazma,Rufaa. One well supplies whole village, 72 feet deep and about 6feet wide, very good water in it. Said never to run dry. Few cattleand sheep and other supplies. Like all other places between thisand Gedaref it was laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his march to jointhe Khalifa.
From Hafar track runs W. over cottonsoil, is clearly marked. Clumps of trees and bushes in places.
Shebaga14210½Small tukl village, few inhabitants.
Alarebab9219½Track strikes BlueNile about 1 mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani. Ferryacross to left bank.
Wad Medani½220

30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM to FAZOGLI.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
KhartoumUp to Soba, cultivation good on bothbanks, though confined to a narrow strip—Sakias numerous.
Buri33L.
KukuR.
El Gereif2Island here at low Nile.
KarkojR.
Um Dom Island2½ mile above the island are the hillas ofUm Dom R. and El Hagirat L.
Soba413¾On the R. are the ruins of the capital ofthe once flourishing kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small village.Soba is the name of the district on both sides of the river, andcontinues to Soba El Taib a village 3 miles further S. on the R.bank.
Butri417¾Two villages of this name L. the other is1 mile further N. From here on for many miles the character of thecountry does not change. The eastern bank is covered with thick,low thorn jungle, while the western bank is open and sandy, verylittle scrub and half grass. There are patches of cultivation roundthe villages, and when the water falls, a narrow strip by theforeshore of the river is cultivated with heavy crops of dura,lubia, sesame, melons, and vegetables. Some of the islands also areunder cultivation.
Eilafun320¾Wood station and village L., a trackleads from here to Geili about 75 miles. About ¼ mile inland on theL. is the Government rest house of Sabil.
Dueikhla22¼R.
Bageir¼22½L.
Bageir Sharg25R.
Bageir126L. Another small village of the samename.
El Shereig228R.
El Gedid29½L. First of three villages of same nameextending for 1½ miles S. Cultivation round the villages.
Awag El Darb32¾L. Between here and Masadia, a shortdistance inland on R. bank is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.
Masadia35¼L.
El Nuba37¾L. Largish village ½ mile fromriver.
Mahas Island, N. end¾38½
Mahas, S. end40¾
Maid141¾Large village L. with Rest house on riverbank and large mosque.
Alti43¾L.
El Nur144¼L.
Um Magad48L.
El Tikena250
Bishagra Island51½Villages L. and R. The one on L. largewith three mosques. Former Dervish depôt and powder factory.
Fogur152½L. Small village.
Eidag53¾R.
Takela¾54½L.
Sayal½55R.
Wad El Turabi358L.
Wad Esheib59½R.
Belula Kasembar¾60¼L.
Kalkol64½L. Opposite S. end of island of samename.
Kamlin64½L. Head quarters of the Blue NileProvince, a large and growing village with market place, post andtelegraph offices, and a good rest house in a grove of date palmsat N. end of village. Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. Morecultivation from here S. Country also much more wooded. Resthouse.
Metemma66R. 1 mile inland. The road on the R. bankto Rufaa goes inland viâ the villages of Metemma, Brankoand Deim.
Hamed El Nil71½
Branko½72Some way inland R.
Um Degersi½72½L. Two villages close together.
Abd El Magdi173½L.
Helalia275½R. Large village.
Abu El Ashr77L. Helawin district commences here.
Bueida Island100½
Hegeir3103½R.
Wad Abu Furur107L. Large village with Government Resthouse. R. bank wooded.
Hassa Hisa111¾L. Commonly called Hassai, largishvillage, the direction of the river after this is N.E. to Rufaa.Hassai and Rufaa being at the points of the curves of the S. knownas the Rufaa bend. Rest house.
Rufa’a5116¾R. Wood station. Former grain stores. AliWad Abu Sin, and Wakil el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab L. Rufa’ais said to be the second largest town on the Blue Nile. It standssome little way back from the river, and is a fairly populousplace. Its inhabitants are a branch of the Shukria tribe of Arabs,and call themselves Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are raised on theforeshore and islands in the vicinity, and melons are cultivated,upon an extensive scale on the flats up-stream of the town. Theriver here is very wide and shallow, and navigation in summer isextremely difficult.
Amara2118¾
Abid1119¾L.
Ereibab4122¼R. About 1½ miles inland.
Wad Belal126¾L.
Fadassi4130¾L. Large village and Rest house. Goodgarden on river bank belonging to Omda of village.
Fadassi Amrab2132¾L.
Tayiba3135¾L.
Hamid El Nil137¼R.
Abu Haraz138¾Starting place of caravan road toGedaref.
Abu Ushur¾139½R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water differslittle from that of Blue Nile; rather more vegetable organicmatter. Jungle begins both banks. This river, which rises in theN.W. slopes of the Abyssinian mountains, brings down a large volumeof water when in flood. It enters the Nile at an angle of 70°, andits bed in February was 3 feet higher than the water surface of theBlue Nile at that time. The Rahad, with the exception of a fewpools, is dry for many months of the year. Its banks at thejunction are steep and high, quite 39 feet over the bed, which hasa width of 71 yards. The flood-marks show that the rise of theRahad is from 15 to 19 feet in height. The Blue Nile at thisjunction forms an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend to the W., andagain another to the E. Its width, is measured, 595 yards. Thebanks of the Rahad River are covered with thick and dense jungle,as are both banks of the Blue Nile in this reach. Shortly beforeWad Medani is reached, the W. bank becomes open again, but theforest on the E. bank is continuous.
Wad Medani5144½L. Large and flourishing town, largest inSudan after Omdurman. Head quarters of Sennar Province. Post andtelegraph offices. A few European shops and good market. Civilpopulation about 30,000. Soil limestone with sand andgravel—healthy; Mosque with high tower. Country S. of Wad Medanibecomes thick jungle especially on E. bank.
From Wad Medani the shortest road toSennar leaves the river and goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan,&c., meeting the river again at Danagila.
Goz El Fil5149½On island.
Ereibab1150½
Kurdugeili5155½
Ganneb162L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank isShabarga, the nearest point to R. Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7miles across.
Bagadi2164L. Large village.
Abd El Karim170½R.
H. Sherif Desis Yusef171¾L. Rest house.
Doliba173½L.
El Beriab178L. Large village on river bank in openground. Supplies plentiful.
Mouth of River Dinder2180Larger and more important river thanRahad. Breadth at mouth 120 yards (see [page 114,] Vol. I).
Hamed6186L. Three miles inland is the largevillage of Shukaba.
Abu Sogra192¾L.
Danagila198¼L. Distant from Wad Medani by direct road31½ miles. Rest house.
Santobar2200¼L.
Banat2202¼L.
Barsi El Fadl204½R.
Wad El Dai3207½L.
Wad El Haddad½208L.
Wad El Abbas214½R. Rest house.
Meshra El Hagirat5219½L. Rest house.
Habbania1220½L.
Shambata5225½R.
Deim El Mashaikh231L.
Sharif232½R.
Sennar235L. Now in ruins and deserted, old mosquewith high tower still standing. Vide [Vol. I.] Rest house at Kabush.
Abu Geili
Kassab El Amin9244R. Opposite large island.
Shekh Talha250½R. Rest house.
Ereidiba2252½R.
Ereidiba255L. About 2 miles inland—largevillage.
Abdin4259L. Rest house.
Abu Shoka3262
Dakhla Shellal7269L.
Rammash8277L.
Mena Yusef6283R.
Wad El Ghazali2285L.
Senga2287L. Headquarters of a District andDetachment of Regular Troops here. Rest house.
Mena1288R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the sheikhAdlan is the descendant of the Fung sultans of Sennar. From here adirect road goes to Lueisa on the R. Dinder, distance about 16miles.
El Gazair294½R.
Brodras302R.
Karkoj5307R. Rest house. A large stragglingvillage, surrounded by bush and tall grass. It is close to theriver, the banks of which are steep. Inhabitants very poor and ofvarious tribes:—Kongeri, Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin andAgalin. Village on high ground, with small khors at intervalsrunning into the river. Soil, limestone mixed with sand andalluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet from surface. Three small springs ofclear water appear at south end of village, and reach the surfaceof the steep bank 9 feet from the top. On the L. bank in Nov. thereis a large stagnant lagoon, which probably increases theunhealthiness of the site.
One hundred and ten hours by steam fromKhartoum.
Karkoj used to be an important tradingcentre in the old days for gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, cotton,coffee (from Abyssinia), vegetables, &c. This used to be thelast place where one could lay in stores for further travel.
The river here is at high Nile 470 yardsbroad, average depth 23 feet, current 5 miles per hour; at low Nilethe figures are 330 yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles respectively.
Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly acacia,&c., begin at some distance off.
(Marno took 25 days in a nugger from Khartoumto this point, in February.)
The Upper Sennar negro race, the Hameg,now begin to populate both banks; a dirty, indolent race.
From Karkoj upwards both banks are highlycultivated and fertile, but only on the narrow strip which isliable to inundation at flood time. Camels become graduallyreplaced by donkeys and oxen. Too damp for horses; many mosquitosand poisonous flies (serút). Much rough cloth woven.
Track on R. bank lies through cultivationand occasional thick woods.
Seiru3310L. Rest house.
Zumorka6316R.
Lanni1317L.
Abu Tiga10½327½R. On main track from Karkoj to Roseires.Rest house.
Barankwa½328L. Swarms of birds in autumn. Waterchannel 700 yards.
Abu Naama329½L. Rather less vegetation; soil containsmuch iron peroxide. Reported immune from fever. Rest house.
Rumeila3332½L.
Tangaru334L. El Lakandi R.
Regeiba6340L. Rest house.
Bunzoga348½R. Boat building yard (?). Two milesbefore this the Khor El Malwai comes on L., and a track goes fromthere to J. Gule. Rest house.
H. Sherif Ahmed24372½R. Well-known point on river. Cultivationconsiderable.
Bados11383½R. Rest house.
El Gereif7390½R. Village up a back-water. Broadconspicuous belt of dom palms begins, and continues along ridge toRoseires. Rest house.
El Karori393R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia.
Abu Ramad9402L.
Roseires[19]3405R. End of telegraph. Headquarters of aDistrict and residence of British Inspector; small garrison, postand telegraph offices. Old Roseires lies 3 miles further north.Hilly ground, thick dom palms along banks. Mimosa woods to the E.Plenty of game. Obstructions in the river begin some miles beforehere, and this is the limit of navigation for steamers or boats.About 2 miles south begin the Roseires cataracts. Malarial feverprevails during October and November. The soil here is composed ofalluvium overlying granite, in which the quartz and mica aresmall-grained, evenly distributed throughout, with a minimum offelspar. Less frequently the blocks are of large grained quartz,combined with felspar. The granite has been extensivelydisintegrated.
Abu Zoghali8413R. Mouth of khor of same name. Resthouse.
El Dakhla11424R. Best camping ground is where hospitalwas established after fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th December, 1898.The village is over a mile from the river inland. Village Iwanmarked on map is deserted. Latter part of road is thick jungle, andseveral deep khors intersect the path. Rest house.
Abu Gemai12½436½L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, about20 people. Rest house. Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road thegreater part of the way, but there are several deep khors boundedby thick jungle. In 11th mile you come to watering place,Ardeiba.
Ardeiba11447½R. Watering place.
Abu Sheneina451L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. bank,about 200 people; Sheikh Abd el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.
Famaka9460R. The latter part of road is very roughindeed, going over shoulder of J. Fazogli; very steep and rockyabout 2 to 3 miles.
Fazogli1461L. Easy path.

[10]No water here, January, 1901.

[11]There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).

[12]This road has recently been straightened and improved.

[13]Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.