On Nov. 25th, at the Chapelle Evangélique, my husband preached for the last time at Lyons. The next morning we rose at 5; at a quarter before 7, left for Marseilles, and, after travelling for many miles through the Valley of the Rhone, reached our destination at half past 3. On the 27th, Mr. Müller preached at the Temple Evangélique, an "église nationale," where the congregation was large, and included several pastors and members of the Consitory. The service did not begin until half past 8. On the following evening he preached again at the Temple; addressed the children of Miss Renger's school in French on the afternoon of the 30th; and, on the evening of that day, and the afternoon of Dec. 1st, preached again in German at Le Temple. On the evening of the 1st he gave a farewell address, in English, at the Temple Evangélique, and on Monday morning, Dec. 2nd, we left for Nismes by express at 10.45.
As this town is a "Protestant centre," my husband preached that evening at the Chapelle Wesléyenne to a crowded audience; and the following afternoon a Christian gentleman conducted us through the town, to point out the Roman antiquities for which Nismes is famous. The principal building, the Amphitheatre—erected as long ago as from a.d. 138 to 160—is a very remarkable ruin. It is in the form of a vast oval or elipse, and contains tiers of stone seats one above the other, rising around it to a considerable height. In the central area, conflicts between gladiators, and combats between condemned criminals and wild beasts, formerly took place; and here many persecuted disciples of the Lord Jesus Christ were torn in pieces by lions and other savage animals that were let loose upon them. The caverns, where prisoners were confined, and some dens in which the wild beasts were shut up, are still in existence. This Amphitheatre is 400 feet long, 303 wide, and 64 high, and was large enough to seat 25,000 people. When all its antecedents are remembered, a fearful interest attaches to the place.
During our short stay at Nismes, Mr. Müller held other meetings, which were conducted at the Chapelle Wesléyenne, the Eglise Libre, and at the house of a Christian gentleman residing in the town. Before our departure, we visited some rocks and stone quarries, about two miles distant, where, during a persecution of the Protestants in the reign of Louis XIV., the little Church of Christ at Nismes used to assemble for religious worship, because its members were not permitted to hold meetings in the town.
On Dec. 7th we left Nismes for Montpellier, where Mr. Müller preached three times at the Eglise Reformée Independente, attended a prayer meeting, where he gave an address, and held a conversational meeting at the house of a Christian lady. In this town, just in front of our hotel, was a piece of ground—now a large public garden—where, about the year 1720, pastors were hung, simply because they were Protestants. Other servants of Christ, after their arms and legs had been broken with a bar of iron, were left to suffer excruciating pain, until a final blow on the chest—given as a "coup de grace"—terminated their agonies. "We have been more persecuted" (said a gentleman who related these particulars—a descendant of the Huguenots) "than any other race of human beings under Heaven." How faint a conception have Christians of the present day, who live in the comfortable, easy circumstances to which most of us are accustomed, of the tribulation endured by disciples of the Lord Jesus, in years long gone by, and even as recently as the last century! The Christians of Montpellier were able to relate numberless instances of the most infamous and wanton cruelty, practised upon the Huguenots, before, during, and after the reign of Louis XIV.
On Dec. 12th, we rose at 5, left Montpellier by rail at 7 o'clock, and went through Cette to Narbonne, from which place—after changing trains—we proceeded on our journey; and at 2 o'clock reached Perpignan, the chief town of the Pyrénées Orientales, at no great distance from the Spanish frontier. The climate of Perpignan is generally mild, and in summer is very hot; but just then wintry winds were sweeping over the snow-covered heights of the Pyrenees, which made the atmosphere unusually cold. This town is overlooked by a strong Citadel, and contains several houses built in the Spanish style. Mont Canigou, 9,140 feet high, is in the distance. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, we left Perpignan, and our journey was continued. For many miles long ranges of the Pyrenees were on our right; and on the left, the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean, were occasionally so close, that a stone might have been thrown into them from the railway carriage; and after travelling through the mountains, by means of numerous tunnels, we—for the first time—found ourselves in Spain. At Portbou, on the frontier, the usual Custom House examination took place, and afterwards, as we advanced into the country, the costumes of the people and the style of the buildings became more and more Spanish in appearance. Here, as in the South of France, there were vines and olive trees innumerable, and aloes, either singly or in hedges, were growing wild in the fields or by the roadside. As the train stopped at nearly every station, our progress was but slow; but at half past 8 we arrived at Barcelona, where two brethren were kindly waiting to receive, and to conduct us to the Fonda Las Cuatro Nationes. There we took possession of two small front rooms at the top of the house, with a south aspect and stone floors. The sitting-room contained an open fireplace, in which we occasionally had small fires, made of the dried roots of olive trees; but the weather being generally mild and genial, they were not often needed. The street below our rooms—one of the leading thoroughfares of Barcelona—was crowded day and night.
The following morning a party of English friends, labouring in Spain, called and welcomed us to the country most affectionately. On Sunday morning, Dec. 15th, we attended a meeting for the breaking of bread, held at a schoolroom in Calle San Gabriel, Gracia, where, at the commencement of the service, a poor blind brother prayed, some portions of Scripture were read by one of the brethren, and afterwards Mr. Müller spoke for half an hour, with translation into Spanish by Mr. Payne. The breaking of bread followed, a hymn was sung, and the meeting was closed with prayer. We then shook hands with our Spanish brethren and sisters, and, amongst them, with the blind man just referred to, who, pointing upwards with his finger, said in Spanish, "We shall all speak one language there." Whilst talking his face was lighted up with smiles, and he made us understand that he rejoiced greatly at our visit. He was very poorly clothed, but a friend remarked, "He is rich in faith, and has been a noble witness for Christ by reading the Scriptures aloud, in raised type, in the streets and public walks of Barcelona."
On the evening of that day, Mr. Müller preached, with Spanish interpretation, at another large schoolroom in the city. On the following Tuesday afternoon, at the house of a Wesleyan minister, he held a meeting for English Christian Workers in Spain, and addressed the party there assembled, with reference to their labours, for upwards of an hour. Conversation respecting the Lord's work in that dark Popish land, was freely entered into afterwards, and the meeting was of so profitable a character, that, though it had lasted two hours and a half, no one was willing to leave, until a promise had been given that another should be held the following afternoon. The next day, accordingly, all met again at the same time and place, and continued for two hours and a half together. On Thursday morning, Dec. 19th, we accompanied Mr. Payne to visit four of the Spanish Day Schools, which are entirely supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution. They are in Barcelonetta (or little Barcelona), a poor part of the city, where, on the first floor of one of the houses, we found two schools (one of big, and the other of little boys) assembled. One master, a converted Spaniard, was present; but the other, in consequence of indisposition, was unable to attend that day. The boys were all quiet and orderly in their behaviour; and, after the younger ones from the other schoolroom had come in, Mr. Müller—with the help of Mr. Payne as a translator—began speaking to them as follows:—"My dear children, I love you all very much, and pray for you every day. I long from my inmost soul to meet every one of you in Heaven; but, in order that you may go to that happy place, as poor, lost, guilty sinners, you must put your trust in the blessed Lord Jesus Christ, who was punished in our room and stead; for His blood alone can cleanse us from our sins." After preaching the gospel further to them, he related a few particulars about the Orphan boys on Ashley Down, and mentioned that some of them, about the same age as those he was addressing, were true disciples of the Lord Jesus Christ, who, at an early age, had been led to trust in Him wholly as their Saviour. It was most interesting to look upon these poor Spanish children—gathered out from the mass of popery and infidelity around—and to know that they were brought habitually under Christian influence and teaching. There were about 150 of them, and their parents were all either Papists or Infidels. Two schools for girls, under the same roof, downstairs, were close at hand. The room for the elder girls was large, but it was below the level of the street, and a short flight of five steps led down to it. When the children were seated, Mr. Müller spoke to them from a low platform; afterwards they sang a hymn, and then a pretty little girl, about six years old, with black hair and very bright dark eyes, was mounted on a form, when she repeated the 128th Psalm in Spanish with great ease, and apparently without missing a word. Another followed with the 24th Psalm, and then an older girl, of about 13, repeated a long Spanish poem, referring to the love of Christ, His death, etc., in a firm, clear voice, without the slightest hesitation or inaccuracy. She could have gone on with a great deal more; and the other children, too, were ready with portions of Scripture and with hymns; but our time did not allow us to hear any further recitation. Close to the large room was a smaller one, devoted to a school for Infant Girls; an interesting company of little children, who understood the Catalan dialect only. Mr. Payne's Spanish had therefore to be translated into Catalan by the governess, a second interpretation, and in this way they were told that the kind gentleman from England, who was speaking, loved them, cared for them, and was glad to see their bright, merry, little faces. We gave them a text also, "The blood of Jesus Christ His Son cleanseth us from all sin," to carry home to their parents. Thus ended our visit to these schools, a work so blessed and important, that we hope, by prayer, long to hold up the hands of those who are engaged in it. In the afternoon, at the house of the Wesleyan minister, Mr. Müller held a third meeting for Christian Workers, and on the evening of that day preached at the Wesleyan Church. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, we visited two more of the schools, supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and went first to the boys who were on the ground floor. They first of all sang a hymn; and, after Mr. Müller had addressed them, answered several questions asked by the master, and repeated portions of Scripture with great ease and readiness. The girls' school upstairs was next visited, where we inspected the children's writing, and their needlework. They excel in penmanship; and articles of needlework, beautifully made by them, were on sale for their own benefit. This room contained also a small but interesting school of Infant Girls. In the evening my husband preached again at the Wesleyan Chapel, and, on Dec. 21st, we inspected the San Gabriel schools, where two sheets of texts in ornamental writing, beautifully executed, one from the boys and the other from the girls, were presented to us. We visited a small school of Infant Girls also conducted at the same place. This visit closed our inspection of the ten Barcelona day-schools, supported entirely by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, which were all in a most satisfactory condition.
In the afternoon we walked up Mont Juich, which overlooks the Mediterranean and the whole of Barcelona and the neighbourhood. This city is situated in a beautiful and highly-cultivated country, and is the capital of Catalonia. It is a place of great trade, carrying on various manufactures, and has some fine squares and promenades; but the streets, generally speaking, are narrow, with very high houses that exclude the air and sunshine.
On Sunday morning, Dec. 22nd, Mr. Müller gave an address at a meeting for the breaking of bread, held in the upper schoolroom, in Calle Fernandina; and in the evening preached in German at a Chapel belonging to Mr. A. Luis Empaytaz, who translated for him. On the evening of the 23rd, he preached at the English Episcopal Church, but the congregation was very small; for in the whole of Barcelona there were not more than about 120 English persons altogether. On the afternoon of the 24th he attended a meeting for prayer and exhortation at the house of the Wesleyan minister, and gave an address again to Christian Workers; preached in the evening at the Fernandina schoolroom, and, on the morning of Christmas Day, held a meeting at the Chapel belonging to Mr. Empaytaz, where he preached in German, without translation. On the afternoon of that day, at a tea-meeting at the San Gabriel schoolroom, Gracia, he gave an address; and afterwards a letter in Spanish, from many of the pupils then present (who formerly attended the schools of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution), was read, thanking him for his visit to Barcelona, and expressing their grateful acknowledgments for the education they had received. Some of these young men were studying at the University of Barcelona, and others were engaged elsewhere in various useful occupations. A translation of this letter into German was then handed in, and soon after 7 the meeting was brought to a close.
On Dec. 28th we rose at 5, and at half past 6 were accompanied to the station by several Christian friends, who kindly came to take leave of us before our departure for Saragossa. At 7 o'clock we left Barcelona, and travelled with two Spaniards, to each of whom we gave a Spanish Gospel and some tracts, which were thankfully accepted, and read with great attention. At 2 o'clock the passengers alighted to dine, at Lerida; but we walked up and down the platform and gave away some tracts, when in a moment a crowd of third-class passengers surrounded us, who all pressed forward, eagerly desiring to obtain tracts or gospels for themselves. The few we had were distributed immediately; but so anxious were the applicants to obtain one each, that they followed us to the railway carriage and lingered about the door. In a few minutes other tracts were found and handed out, but, fearing to attract attention and that our actions might be watched by Romish priests, we held up our empty hands to show that we had nothing more to give. The poor people were loth, however, to depart, and waited until the last moment, thrusting their hands in at the window, with the hope of receiving either a gospel or a tract. At half past 2 we left Lerida, and after a journey of 228 miles, at a quarter to 9 p.m., reached Saragossa, where, at the Fonda de las Cuatro Nationes, we found suitable accommodation. The following morning (Sunday, Nov. 29th) a meeting was held at Mr. Gulick's Church, when Mr. Müller preached, with translation by the pastor, and in the afternoon addressed the Sunday School children at the same place. At the beginning of the service they chanted the 23rd Psalm, and, at the close, sang a hymn, of which the following words are a translation of the first verse:—