"Jesus Christ came down,
From Heaven to Bethlehem;
There, our Peace was born,
Our Felicity, Light, and Good.
Oh, blessed be God! Thanks be unto Thee, Lord,
For Jesus the Saviour."
This hymn was set to a lively tune, and sung in marked, quick time, with great spirit and animation. In the evening Mr. Müller preached again at the same Church to a large, attentive audience.
On Dec. 30th we walked out with Mr. Gulick, who conducted us to one of the two Cathedrals in Saragossa—the only city in Spain which has two Cathedral Churches. The architecture is Moorish, and some sculpture on the walls represents the martyrdom of a few of the early Christians, and that of St. Lawrence in particular, who, in the 4th century, was roasted to death on a gridiron over a slow fire, by the command of one of the Pagan Roman emperors. Though considered a Catholic by the Papists, it is said that he was a true disciple of Christ. Some poor devotees were worshipping at the shrines, to a few of whom we quietly gave Spanish gospel tracts; and a tract was handed also to a gowned individual, a verger or sacristan, with a wand of office, as he slowly wandered up and down the aisles, who looked at us gloomily, but accepted it nevertheless.
Our next visit was to the Cathedral of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, which contains an image of the Virgin and Child on a jasper pedestal, said to have come down direct from Heaven in the 1st century, and to have been brought by the Apostle James to Saragossa! To this image the most extravagant miracles are attributed. Many persons were kissing the pillar and crossing themselves, whilst others, dispersed about the Cathedral, were kneeling on the stone pavement before various images of saints. Whole regiments of soldiers, too, come in to kneel, bow, cross themselves, and perform their devotions before the different shrines. Oh! how responsible are we, who possess the pure gospel of the grace of God, to make it known to poor idolators like these. In order to form a correct idea of the degrading superstitions, the debasing idolatry of Popery, there is nothing like witnessing these things in a country such as Spain, where the Roman Catholic religion appears to be of a grosser type than it is in Protestant countries. Our last remaining tract was slipped into the hand of a worshipper, kneeling upon a stone step before an altar.
Besides these two Cathedrals, Saragossa contains many curious old Moorish houses and ancient monuments, including the Aljaferia, now a fort, but formerly a Moorish palace. As we walked through the streets, almost every one turned round to have a good look at us as strangers; and occasionally some children followed close behind, desiring to have a thorough gaze at the walking curiosities from a foreign country.
In the evening, Mr. Müller preached again at Mr. Gulick's Church, and on the following morning (Dec. 31st) we rose at half-past 4, in order to start early for Madrid. The journey was extremely tedious, and, after stopping at every one of the 35 stations, in the evening, at 10 o'clock, we reached our destination, where Mr. Fenn (an English missionary) was kindly waiting to receive and to conduct us to the Fonda Peninsular, near the Puerta del Sol, about two miles from the station. The next morning (Jan. 1st, 1879), at 10 o'clock, a procession passed along the street consisting of boys carrying lighted tapers; soldiers, priests, and men bore a large figure of the Virgin, robed in crimson satin, with a crown upon her head; whilst a small image of the Saviour was carried immediately behind it. The men in this procession were bareheaded, and all the passers-by took off their hats.
In the evening, at a coffee meeting at Chamberi, Mr. Müller addressed a gathering of Spanish Christians, with translation by Mr. Fenn. On the afternoon of Jan. 2nd, we attended a meeting of Christian Workers, to whom my husband gave a short address, and in the evening he preached at Chamberi. At a gospel service held the following Sunday morning at Chamberi, he preached again; spoke in German in the afternoon at Pastor Fliedner's Church, and in the evening preached at Chamberi a second time, with translation into Spanish. The next day a meeting of school teachers was held at Mr. Fenn's house, where Mr. Müller gave them a short address, and in the evening he attended the first of a series of prayer meetings at Mr. Fliedner's Church.
On Jan. 7th, we inspected the five schools—three at Chamberi, and two in another part of Madrid—which are supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and are under the care and superintendence of Mr. and Mrs. Fenn, where it was gratifying to find the dear children (contrary to custom, as their Christmas holidays were scarcely over) assembled in considerable numbers to see the strangers from England, whose presence seemed to afford them great delight. After visiting the three Chamberi schools, which are admirably conducted, all the children formed one assembly in the Chapel, where Mr. Müller addressed them for about twenty minutes, with translation by Mr. Fenn. He spoke also to the children of the two other schools. Sheets of paper, containing texts and short addresses, beautifully written, were presented to us by the pupils at Chamberi. On our way back to the hotel, we passed an open piece of ground, where, several years ago, large quantities of human bones were disinterred, the remains of victims of the Inquisition, about 130 Protestants having been burned alive there in former times, as an "auto da fé," by their enemies, the Papists. Here the hand of a young girl was found, with a large nail driven through it; tresses of long hair were discovered, and other revolting evidences were brought to light of the cruelties that had been perpetrated. We visited the Plaza Mayor also, a large Square in Old Madrid, where, centuries ago, Jews, Protestants, and criminals, all dressed in hideous garments, and high, pointed caps, were brought before their judges; by whom, after sentence of death had been pronounced, they were sent to the spot above mentioned, near Chamberi, and there burned alive.
On the evening of Jan. 9th, at a united prayer meeting of the Evangelical Alliance, Mr. Müller gave an address on prayer, and spoke at Chamberi also, at a prayer meeting the next evening. On the 11th, we visited Mr. and Mrs. Fenn's interesting Orphan Institution; on the morning of Sunday, the 12th, my husband preached at Chamberi, and in the evening addressed a large English congregation at a Hall connected with the residence of the Presbyterian minister. This Hall, and the premises connected with it, at one time formed a portion of the Spanish Inquisition.
On the afternoon of Monday, Jan. 13th, at a quarter before 5, we left Madrid for Bayonne, and at 7 reached the Escurial—both palace and monastery in one; which, on account of the lateness of the hour, could be seen very indistinctly. We passed Avila also, a town enclosed by ancient granite walls 800 years old, which has 86 towers and gates, and is considered the finest specimen of a walled town in Europe. Valladolid was reached at midnight; and soon after 6, on the 14th, as the day began to dawn, we arrived at Vitoria, where the mountainous, picturesque character of the country formed an entire contrast to the plain on which Madrid is situated. For many miles we travelled through the Passes at the western extremity of the Pyrenees, and went through tunnel after tunnel, until, at 10.15, the train drew up at San Sebastian, a town on the Bay of Biscay, besieged by the British army under Wellington in 1813; where numbers of English soldiers, who fell during the war on the Peninsula, lie interred. The last stations in Spain were Irun and Hendaya; and, after travelling close to the Bay of Biscay, where great rolling waves were dashing in upon the shore, at half past 1 p.m. we reached Bayonne.