On the afternoon of Jan. 15th, at a little meeting held at the house of Monsieur Nogaret, pastor of the Reformed Church, Mr. Müller spoke in French for three quarters of an hour; and afterwards we walked to the fortifications, from which the district between Bayonne and the frontier could be seen—a locality memorable as the scene of the struggle between Wellington and Soult in the year 1813. On the 17th we went to Biarritz, a beautiful watering place on the Bay of Biscay, six miles from Bayonne, where the rocky coast lies open to the full sweep of rollers from the Bay. There, at 2 o'clock, in a large salon of the Hôtel de France, Mr. Müller held a meeting for the English, of whom he addressed a considerable number, for an hour. At half past 3 we returned to Bayonne, and at 5.20 left by rail for Pau in the Pyrenees. There, on the following Sunday (Jan. 19th), my husband preached morning and afternoon in English at the Presbyterian Church, to large congregations, with much help from the Lord. On the evening of the 20th, he conducted a French service at Le Temple, and preached the following morning in German at the Presbyterian Church. He held English meetings also at this Church every morning (except Saturday) throughout the week.
Pau is famous for its mild, genial climate, its beautiful scenery, and for being much resorted to by visitors—especially the English—of whom, during our stay, there were about 2,000 in the place. The Chateau of Henry 4th is joined by three bridges to the town. On the morning of Sunday, Jan. 26th, Mr. Müller preached a farewell sermon at the Presbyterian Church and held a French meeting in the evening for the working classes, at a large Hall.
On the 27th, we left Pau for Bordeaux, about 150 miles distant, where, at the Chapelle Evangélique, he held two French meetings. An address was also given by him at a Hall belonging to the "Union Chrétienne de jeunes gens," and on the 29th, we went to the Asylums of La Force, of which the late Mr. John Bost was the Founder and Director. After a journey of 70 miles we reached our destination, and in the afternoon accompanied Mr. Bost in a small omnibus belonging to the Institution, to visit his Asylums, which are situated at some little distance from each other. They are eight in number. "La Famille Evangélique is for Orphan girls of all ages. Bethesda is an asylum for girls infirm or incurable, blind, or threatened with blindness, idiot, imbecile, or of feeble intellect. Ebenezer is an asylum for epileptic girls. Siloam is for boys infirm or incurable, blind or threatened with blindness. Bethel is an asylum for epileptic boys. Le Repos is for invalid governesses, infirm school mistresses, widows or spinsters who are ill or without resources. La Retraite is for servants, widows or spinsters, who are ill, infirm, or without means of support, and afflicted with incurable diseases; and La Miséricorde is for idiot girls who have lost all intelligence; also for epileptics, who are idiot and infirm." After we had inspected these deeply interesting, and most Christ-like Institutions, a very large gathering of the inmates who were well enough to attend, assembled at "La Famille," where Mr. Müller addressed them for three quarters of an hour; for though the community is so afflicted as a whole, a meeting was hailed by them with delight, many of the patients being intelligent, and some of the epileptics even, persons of sound mind, when not suffering from their dreadful fits. The next day, at half past 2, another service was held at "Le Temple" (the Church of the Institution) where upwards of 400 individuals assembled; and as Mr. Bost would not hear of a translation—because, said he, "Monsieur Müller, est admirable"—my husband addressed this large company for an hour and a quarter in French. Afterwards we drank tea at "La Famille," and returned by railway in the evening to Bordeaux. [Since our visit to these Asylums, their beloved Founder and Director, Mr. Bost, has departed to be with Christ. "Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord; they rest from their labours and their works do follow them.">[ On the afternoon of Jan. 31st, at the Chapelle Evangélique, Mr. Müller held his fourth and last meeting in the city, and at 6.50 we left by the night express for Cannes. Toulouse was reached in the middle of the night; the next morning we stopped at Marseilles, and proceeded along the coast of the Mediterranean, until (after a journey of 480 miles) at a quarter to 1 p.m. we arrived at Cannes.
There, on Sunday, Feb. 2nd, Mr. Müller preached in the morning at the German, and in the afternoon at the Presbyterian, Church; gave an address on the 4th, at the Eglise Evangélique, held another meeting at the German Church the following afternoon, and continued his labours every day until the 12th, when he spoke in French at the Eglise de la Rédemption, in the evening. On the 13th, he preached at the Presbyterian Church, and on the 14th gave a farewell address in English at the Eglise de la Rédemption.
During our stay at Cannes, we visited "Les Orangers"—large plantations of orange and lemon trees, laden with ripe fruit—and greatly enjoyed the climate of that delightful place.
On Feb. 15th we left Cannes, and, just before our departure, received a little parcel, containing an ivory paper-cutter, with a slip of paper on which these words were written—"For dear Mr. Müller from one of his former Orphans, and wishing both Mr. and Mrs. Müller, God speed." At half-past 2 we arrived at Nice, where, on the following afternoon (Sunday) my husband preached in English at the Presbyterian Church, held a meeting in the evening at the Vaudois Church, and continued to conduct services in English, French, or German during the remainder of our stay, including a meeting at the Presbyterian Church on the 26th, when he preached in English, to a large congregation on the second coming of Christ. Whilst we were at Nice, the whole town was in a state of excitement from the Carnival, for which that place is noted. During our walks, to and from the meetings, we met troops of individuals in masks, dressed in extraordinary costumes, who danced along the streets, and made merry with anybody and everybody who happened to come across them; but by promptly branching off into back streets, we (happily) escaped their notice altogether. The popular idea seems to be that, just before the austerities of Lent commence, a season of extravagance, folly, and amusement is particularly appropriate. That children and young people should be tempted to indulge in such diversions, is not perhaps surprising; but how persons of mature age can take delight in making such fools of themselves, is really most astonishing. We heard a Christian gentleman from London lamenting greatly that the English too—Protestants—who might be expected to set a good example to their Catholic neighbours, were amongst the foremost in these amusements.
On Feb. 21st, we visited Monaco, one of the most beautiful spots along the whole coast of the Mediterranean. It is notorious, however, for its gambling saloons, which lead many who frequent them both to temporal and eternal ruin. Suicide was said to be a common thing also amongst the votaries of those gaming tables.
On March 1st we left for Mentone, 24 miles from Nice, where Mr. Müller preached at the Hall of the Free Church of Scotland, at the Eglise Française, and at the German Church, to large congregations; and continued to hold meetings daily as long as we remained. As on Sunday mornings the little Hall of the Free Church was crowded, its doors and windows were left open; several persons therefore sat outside in the balcony, on chairs, and amongst the number was Mr. Spurgeon, who attended three meetings. Whilst at Mentone, we had the pleasure of seeing and driving out with him occasionally. One afternoon, the Turin road leading to Castiglione, was selected for our route, where, whilst slowly winding up hill in an open carriage, surrounded by magnificent scenery, Mr. Spurgeon said:—"When in the midst of landscapes such as these, from the crown of my head to the sole of my foot, I feel as though I could burst out into one song of praise."
On the morning of March 11th, at the Free Church Hall, my husband gave a farewell address. At 3.50 that afternoon we left Mentone for Ventimiglia on the Italian frontier, and proceeded afterwards to Bella Vista, Bordighera, the residence of Mrs. Boyce, two miles distant from the station. In the evening Mr. Müller preached at a small church in Bordighera (built by Mrs. Boyce) with translation into Italian by Signor Malan, a young Italian pastor. The congregation consisted of the children belonging to Mrs. Boyce's schools, their teachers, and some country people from the neighbourhood, most of whom were Roman Catholics. This little church at Bordighera was then the only centre of real Christian influence throughout a very extensive district, as there were no other Italian Protestant services between Bordighera and Genoa. On the following morning, we visited Mrs. Boyce's schools, and at half past two, Mr. Müller held a drawing-room meeting for English residents and visitors, at Viletta Aurelia, where, for upwards of an hour he addressed a large company of gentlemen and ladies. On March 13th we accompanied Mrs. Boyce in a carriage to San Rémo, on the coast of the Mediterranean, nine miles distant; and there, in the large drawing-rooms of Villa Theresa, at 2 o'clock; he held a meeting for the English also, which was crowded with gentlemen and ladies. He spoke with great power; the hearers were all attention, and one lady said afterwards—"I was never so much interested in my whole life." This meeting was an important one, as many present were always under ritualistic teaching, and never heard the pure gospel preached. In the evening, at half-past 6, we left San Rémo by express—reached Genoa at 11, and the next day at 1.10 p.m. set off for Pisa, when our route through Spezzia and near Carrara extended along the coast of the Mediterranean, through scenery of the most beautiful description. At 7 o'clock we arrived at Pisa, and the next morning, before our departure for Florence, saw the exterior of its celebrated leaning tower, 180 feet high, and 13 feet out of the perpendicular, built in the year 1174, by Bonanno of Pisa.
As our object was to reach Florence, we did not remain either at Genoa or at Pisa, but simply passed through those cities on the way. At noon, therefore, on March 15th, our journey was continued; and at 3 in the afternoon we arrived at Florence, where, at the station, we were received by some Christian friends, with—"A warm welcome in the Master's name." The next day (Sunday) we attended a meeting for the breaking of bread at a Hall in Via San Spirito, which, with an ante-room adjoining it, was crowded. There, Mr. Müller spoke for nearly an hour, with Italian translation by Signor Rossetti; and in the evening, preached at the Vaudois Church. During our stay at Florence he held a number of other meetings also, including services at two Italian Churches—one in Via Palazuolo, and the other in Via dei Benci—a meeting at the Chapel of Dr. Comandi's Asilo in Via Aretina, an English service at the Presbyterian Church, a meeting at the French Swiss Church, with Italian translation, a service at the Methodist Episcopal Church in English with Italian translation, and a drawing-room meeting at Dr. Young's, where he addressed the students of the Theological Seminary, their professors, several pastors, and a number of gentlemen and ladies. He held a second drawing-room meeting also at Dr. Young's, and had a Bible reading at the house of the Presbyterian minister. On most of these occasions, there were large, attentive audiences. A few days after the service at the Italian Church in Via dei Benci, a gentleman said—"God be praised for the glorious meeting you had. I was there, and enjoyed very much your powerful testimony." During our stay at Florence, we looked with interest at the exterior of the prison where Francesco and Rosa Madai were confined, and had a good view of the city and neighbourhood from an elevated spot called the Piazza Michel Angelo.