These sulphureous mountains are certainly among the most wonderful phænomena of nature, and command our astonishment and admiration. To see vast tracts of land on fire, whose smoke, like clouds, stretches far around; brimstone in flames, like streams of water issuing from the sides of precipices; in the vallies large holes full of bituminous matter, boiling and bubbling like a caldron; the earth trembling under the tread, and bursting out with loud explosions, are objects truly terrific to the beholders; who, on the spot, are struck with awe and admiration, on viewing such dreadful works of the Almighty, who causes them to exist, for purposes only known by him[3].
Others of the mountains are exceedingly large and high, whose summits, sides and feet are covered with vast tall woods, which together with the under woods, are so crouded as to be almost impervious to the eye, and that for several miles around. From the tops and sides of these descend numberless springs and water-falls, which form the most delightfully romantic cascades, of fine, cool, wholesome water, as clear as crystal, excepting in places where it is tinctured with sulphur.
The woods of Dominica, which constitute nearly two thirds of the island at present, including the parts that are incapable of cultivation, on account of steep and rugged mountains, afford a vast fund of excellent timber: consisting of locus-wood, bullet-tree, mastic, cinnamon, rose-wood, yellow-sanders, bastard-mahogany, iron-wood, several species of cedar, and various other sorts of wood, useful for building houses, vessels and canoes, for furniture, for dying, and other necessary purposes.
In the woods, an awful, yet pleasing solitariness prevails; but that which makes them the more agreeably romantic, is the noise of falling waters, the whistling of the wind among the trees, the singing and chirping of an innumerable quantity of birds among the branches, and the uncommon cries of various kinds of harmless insects, which together with the dark shadiness of the trees, form a solemn but delightful scene for contemplation.
The trees in the woods are of uncommon height, and by far exceed in loftiness the tallest trees in England. In this island their tops seem to touch the clouds, which appear as if skimming swiftly over their upper branches, and looking up the trees is painful to the eye. Many of the trees are like wise of enormous girt, and their spreading boughs extend far around; those of the fig-tree especially, under whose inviting shade hundreds at a time may repose themselves, without fear of being wet by the heaviest shower of rain, or dread of the influence of the scorching sun-beams.
In the woods the trees are, in common, covered with different foliage, so that it is usual to see one tree dressed out with the rich liveries of several, all growing in beautiful variety: the trunk and branches, covered with ivy and other plants, growing on them like house-leeks.
That the leaves of different trees should be found on one tree, is an object worthy of speculation; but yet, in my opinion, is no other way to be accounted for, than by supposing that the seeds of different trees, being scattered by the wind, fall into the heart of the same plant, like house-leeks, and are thus incorporated into the tree on which they are seen growing.
The different species of ivy, or rather wild vines, in the woods, grow to a great size, and have the appearance of so many cords, or thick ropes, fastened to the branches. Some of these are very tough, strong, and useful; and hoops, baskets, and other wicker utensils are made of them: also walking-sticks, called supple-jacks, which, if cut in the proper season, are very durable, and so pliant, that both ends may be bent together without breaking them. These being in general regularly knotted, and of a good polish, are much admired for walking-sticks, or to use on horseback instead of whips; for both which purposes many of them are frequently sent to England, where they are well known.
Among other valuable trees in the woods of Dominica is the gum-tree, which yields great quantities of that article. The circumference of the body of this tree is generally very great, and its timber is, on that account, made into canoes; which is done by digging or burning out the inside, and shaping the log into form. The gum falls from the body and branches of the tree in great quantities, in substance like white wax, and was very serviceable to the planters of that island, during the time it was in possession of the French last war; this gum being used instead of oil, which could not then be had, to burn in lamps in the boiling houses when making sugar. The Romish priests of this island use it likewise in their censers at funerals, and other ceremonies of their church, it having a very aromatic smell when burning; and it is supposed to contain virtues which might be valuable in medicines, was it better known.