AT ANCHOR, BLOCK ISLAND POND.
Making a mooring to leeward:
This should never be done unless you have to, as it is more likely to get you into a mix-up. But in places where there is strong tide running against the wind it is the only way. Go well to windward, and take enough sail off so that she will just about stem the tide; then steer right for the buoy and pick it up, getting sail down at once.
Mooring hook:
Get an iron hook made, shaped like the hooks used by women on their dresses, only longer in the shank. Splice a rope to this and then fasten to it and the rope a short piece of stick, long enough to reach from the rail to the water. When you come to the mooring the bowman can hook this into the ring and hold her until you get the sail down and can pass the mooring warp. A little practice with one of these contrivances will make a man so expert that he can catch the ring every time, even by throwing the hook several feet.
Mooring warp:
If your boat lies at moorings where there is constant jump of sea on, or where the tide and wind keep her yawing about, the warp should be well-armored where it comes through the chock or over the rail. Leather is best for this. A boat will lie much easier if a bridle is used, an end being brought aboard at each bow. Don’t leave the warp hanging to the buoy, especially if the water is foul or the bottom muddy. Not only will it rot, but every time you take it on board it will dirty the boat.
Mooring chain:
It is best to use a heavy chain, much heavier than is really needed, to stand the strain, as the boat will ride in all ordinary weather to the weight of the chain, and not to the block or anchor. In this way she will take the seas easier and not try the gear so much.