This is a simple proceeding, if you have plenty of sea room on either side of you. If not, use a cant line, as it will enable you to cast your boat on either tack. To do this take a light line and pass it through the ring on the buoy, and bring both ends aft outside the rigging to the quarter. If you want to go off on the port tack, bringing it on the port quarter, and on the starboard tack on that quarter. Let go the mooring warp and hold on to the cant line until she swings and fills; then let go one end of it and it will slip the buoy ring. If you want to go off before the wind hang on until she comes stern to the buoy, then slip. This is a much simpler and surer way than trying to cast her with the mooring warp.
Moorings:
Most accidents happen to moored yachts, not through the anchor failing to hold, but through the line or chain parting. Frequently the line is too short, and an extra high tide, such as often accompanies a storm, causes the boat to lift the anchor. Most accidents happen late in the season when the gear is rotted after months of laying on the mud. Mooring gear should be frequently looked to.
Hawsers:
Hawsers, such as are employed on yachts, are very perishable articles, and should be frequently aired. Excessive dryness is very bad for manila rope. To prolong the life of a hawser that is used for anchoring it should be turned end-for-end frequently. If used in water where sewerage or chemical refuse is present, wash the rope thoroughly in clean water before stowing away.
Chain:
Chain is much cleaner than rope for use as anchor warp where the bottom is muddy. Chain should be frequently examined and tested, as it is liable to develop weak links, which will give way when least expected.
Anchored in an exposed harbor:
If anchored in an exposed harbor, before turning in at night reef your principal sail or sails, so that if it comes on to blow you will be in shape to get quickly away.