I hope the High Court of Parliament will so settle the Church and State here that this shall not feare any further troubles from that; and that wee who have our portion from the one, may bee Ministers and Servants under the Commissioners of the other. And thus largely I have described the State and condition of Mexico in the time of Montezuma, and since his death the manner and proportion of it, with the troubled condition I found it in when I went thither, by reason of a mutiny and rebellion caused by an Arch-Bishop the yeer before. I shall now come out of Mexico, and present unto you the places most remarkable about it; and from thence the severall parts and Countries of America, before I betake my self to the journey which I made from Mexico to Guatemala, lying nine hundred English miles Southward, and from thence yet to Costarica, and Nicoya, being nine hundred miles further towards the South.
[CHAP. XIII.]
Shewing the severall parts of this new World of America; and the places of note about the famous City of Mexico.
Although my travailes by Sea and Land in America were not above three or foure thousand miles (which is not the fift part of it, if exactly compassed) yet for the better compleating of this my worke I thought fit to inlarge my self to a full division of the many and sundry parts thereof, here first in generall; and hereafter more in particular of those parts wherein I lived twelve yeeres, and of those which I more exactly noted and observed as I travailed and passed through them. The chief division therefore of this greatest part of the World, is twofold onely, to wit, the Mexicans, and the Peruan parts, which containe many great and sundry Provinces and Countries, some as big as our whole Kingdom of England. But Mexico giving name to halfe America, is now called Nova Hispania, new Spain, from whence the Kings of Spain doe stile themselves, Hispaniarum Reges. The Mexican part containeth chiefly the Northern Tract, and comprehendeth these Provinces hitherto knowne and discovered, to wit, Mexico, Quivira, Nicaragua, Jucatan, Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia, Corterialis, and Estotilandia. The compasse of this part of America is thirteen thousand miles. The Peruan part containeth all the Southern Tract, and is tyed to the Mexican by the Isthmus or strait of Darien, being no more then 17 or as others say, in the narrowest place but 12 miles broad from the North to the South Sea. And many have mentioned to the Councell of Spain, the cutting of a Navigable Channell through this small Isthmus, so to shorten the Voiage to China, and the Moluccoes. But the Kings of Spain have not as yet attempted to doe it, some say lest in the worke hee should lose those few Indians that are left (would to God it were so that they were and had been so carefull and tender of the poore Indians lives, more populous would that vast and spatious Countrey bee at this day:) but others say he hath not attempted that great worke, lest the passage by the Cape Bona Esperanza good hope, being left off, those Seas might become a receptacle of Pirates. However this hath not been attempted by the Spaniards, they give not for reason any extraordinary great charge, for that would soone bee recompensed with the speedy and easie conveying that way the Commodities from South to North Seas. This Peruan part of America containeth these Countries, or Kingdomes, to wit, Castella aurea, Guiana, Peru, Brasil, Chille; and the compasse of it is seventeen thousand miles. I shall not speake distinctly of all these parts, which better writers, and of more knowledge have before mee discovered; and because some of them being out of the Spaniards reach and dominion, from whom I have received my best intelligence, I have from them had little notice of them, nor experience, which indeed I intend to make my best guide in this my worke. Therefore to returne again to the Mexican part, and the Northern Tract, I shall fall again upon the first and chiefe member of that division, which I said was Mexico. This aboundeth with golden sanded rivers, in which are many Crocodiles (though not so big as those of Egypt), which the Indian people eat. It glorieth in the mountaines Popochampeche, and Popocatepec, which are of the same nature with Ætna and Vesuvius. Nay all the way South-ward as farre as Leon in Nicaragua, there are many of these fiery mountaines. But Popocatepec is one of the chiefe of them, which signifieth a hill of smoake, for many times it casteth out smoake and fire; it standeth eight leagues from Chololla; the ascending up unto it is very troublesome, and full of craggie rocks. When Cortez passed that way to Mexico, he sent ten Spaniards to view it, with many Indians to carry their victuals, and to guide them in the way. They approached so nigh the top, that they heard such a terrible noyse which proceeded from thence, that they durst not goe unto it, for the ground did tremble and shake, and great quantity of ashes did much disturb their way. But yet two of them who seemed to be most hardie, and desirous to see strange things, went up to the top, because they would not return with a sleevelesse answer, and that they might not be accounted cowards, leaving their fellowes behind them, proceeded forwards, and passed through that desart of ashes, and at length came under a great smoake very thick, and standing there a while, the darknesse vanished partly away, and then appeared the Vulcan and concavity, which is about halfe a league in compasse, out of the which the aire came rebounding with a very great noise, very shrill and whistling, so that the whole hill did tremble; it was like unto an oven where glasse is made. The smoake and heat was so great that they could not abide it, and of force were constrained to return by the way that they had ascended. But they were not gone farre, when the Vulcan began to flash out flames of fire, ashes and embers, yea and at the last stones of burning fire, and if they had not chanced to find a rocke, under which they shadowed themselves, undoubtedly they had there been burned. It is like unto the Vulcan of Sicilia, it is high and round, and never wanteth snow about some part of it. Before the coming of Cortez for ten yeers space it had left off expelling vapour or smoake; but in the yeer 1540. it began again to burn, and with the horrible noyse thereof, the people that dwelt four leagues from it were terrified; the ashes that proceeded then from it reached to Tlaxcallan, which standeth ten leagues distant from it; yea some affirme that it extended fifteen leagues distant, and burned the herbs in the gardens, the corne in the fields, and clothes that lay a drying. And many such hils and mountaines doth this Mexican part of America, or new Spaine abound with. The limits of it are on the East, Jucatan, and the gulfe of Mexico, on the West Californio, on the South the Peruan part. The Northern bounds are unknowne, so that we cannot certainly avow this America to be continent, nor certainly affirme it to be an Island, distinguished from the old world. It was very populous before the arrivall of the Spaniards, who in seventeen yeers slew six millions of them, roasting some, plucking out the eyes, cutting off the arms of others, and casting them living to be devoured of wilde beasts. This chiefe Province of America named Mexico, is further subdivided into four parts, that is to say, Themistitan, Nova Galicia, Mechoacan, and Guastachan. Themistitan is the greatest and noblest of these foure; for that it containeth six Cities, and of them one is Mexico, which giveth name to the halfe part of America, and is the seat of an Arch-bishop, and of the Spanish Viceroy, whose greatnesse within I have before laid open; the second City is La Puebla de las Angeles, the City of Angels; the third Villaruca, the fourth Antiquera; the fifth Meccioca; the sixth Ottopan. But all these, excepting the two first, are but small places, named Citties formerly, for that the Spaniards thought to have made them Bishops seats, which they have not been able to performe, by reason that Mexico and the City of Angels hath drawne to them the chiefe trading, and most of the inhabitants of the other foure. Especially the resort to Mexico is so great, that all the Townes about (which formerly were of Indians) are now inhabited by Spaniards and Mestizoes. I may not omit about Mexico that famous place of Chapultepec, which in the Heathens times was the burying place of the Emperours; and now by the Spaniards is the Escuriall of America, where the Viceroyes that die are also interred. There is a sumptuous palace built with many fair gardens, and devises of waters, and ponds of fish, whither the Viceroyes and the gentry of Mexico do resort for their recreation. The riches here belonging to the Viceroyes Chappell are thought to be worth above a million of crownes.
Tacuba is also a pleasant Towne full of orchards and gardens, in the very way to Chapultepec. South-ward is Toluco, rich also for trading, but above all much mentioned for the Bacon, which is the best of all those parts, and is transported far and neer. West-ward is the Towne called, La Piedad at the end of a Cawsey, whither the people much resort from Mexico, being drawn to the superstitious worship of a picture of Mary, which hath been enriched by the chiefe of Mexico with many thousand pounds worth of gifts of chaines, and crownes of gold.
But more Northwest-ward three leagues from Mexico is the pleasantest place of all that are about Mexico, called La Soledad, and by others el desierto, the solitary or desert place and wildernesse. Were all wildernesses like it, to live in a wildernesse would be better then to live in a City. This hath been a device of poor Fryers named discalced, or barefooted Carmelites, who to make shew of their hypocriticall and apparent godlinesse, and that whilst they would be thought to live like Eremites, retired from the world, they may draw the world unto them; they have built there a stately Cloister, which being upon a hill and among rocks makes it to be more admired. About the Cloister they have fashioned out many holes and Caves in, under, and among the rocks, like Eremites lodgings, with a room to lie in, and an Oratory to pray in, with pictures, and Images, and rare devices for mortification, as disciplines of wyar, rods of iron, haire-cloths, girdles with sharp wyar pointes to girdle about their bare flesh, and many such like toyes which hang about their Oratories, to make people admire their mortified and holy lives. All these Eremeticall holes and caves (which are some ten in all) are within the bounds and compasse of the Cloister, and among orchards and gardens full of fruits and flowers, which may take up two miles compasse; and here among the rockes are many springs of water, which with the shade of the plantins and other trees, are most coole and pleasant to the Eremites; they have also the sweet smell of the rose and jazmin, which is a little flower, but the sweetest of all others; there is not any other flower to be found that is rare and exquisite in that countrey, which is not in that wildernesse to delight the senses of those mortified Eremites. They are weekly changed from the Cloister, and when their weeke is ended, others are sent, and they return unto their Cloister; they carry with them their bottles of wine, sweet-meats, and other provision; as for fruits the trees about do drop them into their mouthes. It is wonderfull to see the strange devises of fountains of water which are about the gardens; but much more strange and wonderfull to see the resort of Coaches, and gallants, and Ladies, and Citizens from Mexico thither, to walke and make merry in those desart pleasures, and to see those hypocrites, whom they looke upon as living Saints, and so think nothing too good for them, to cherish them in their desart conflicts with Satan. None goes to them but carries some sweet-meats, or some other dainty dish to nourish and feed them withall; whose prayers they likewise earnestly solicite, leaving them great almes of mony for their masses; and above all, offering to a picture in their Church, called our Lady of Carmel, treasures of diamonds, pearles, golden chaines and crownes, and gownes of cloth of gold and silver. Before this picture did hang in my time twenty lampes of silver; the worst of them being worth a hundred pound; truely Satan hath given unto them what he offered Christ in the desart, All these things wil I give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship me; all the dainties and of all the riches of America hath he given unto them in that their desart, for that they daily fall downe and worship him. In the way to this place there is another Towne yet called Tacubaya, where is a rich Cloister of Franciscans, and also many gardens and orchards, but above all much resorted to for the musicke in that Church, wherein the Friers have made the Indians so dexterous and skilfull, that they dare compare with the Cathedrall Church of Mexico. These were the chiefe places of mine and my friends resort, whilst I abode about Mexico, which I found to be most worth a History, and so thought fit here to insert them, and so passe on to the other parts or Provinces of Mexico.
Next to this is the Province of Guastachan, which lieth in the rode from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico, which is not so poore as Heylin maketh it, for that now it doth abound with many rich farmes of Sugar, and of Cochinil, and reacheth as farre as the Valley of Guaxaca which is a most rich place. The chiefe City of this Province was wont to be Tlaxcallan, whereof I have formerly spoken; but now the City of Guaxaca which is a Bishops seat, and Xalappa which is also of late made a Bishops seat, makes it more famous. It glorieth also in Villa Rica a Port Towne very wealthy, because all the traffique betwixt the Old and New Spains do passe through it. The Spaniards have in it two rich Colonies, called Pamico, and St. James in the valleys. The third Province of Mexico is called Mechoacan, which containeth in circuit fourscore leagues. It is also an exceeding rich countrey, abounding in Mulberry trees, silk, hony, wax, black-amber, works of divers coloured feathers, most rich, rare, and exquisite, and such store of fish, that from thence it tooke its name, Mechuoucan, which signifieth a place of fishing.
The language of the Indians is most elegant and copious, and they tall, strong, active, and of very good wits, as may be seen in all their workes, but especially in those of feathers, which are so curious, that they are presented for rich presents to the King and Nobles of Spaine. The chiefe City of this Province is Valladolid a Bishops-seat; and the best Townes are Sinfonte, which was the residence of the Kings of this countrey. There is also Pascuar and Colima very great Townes inhabited by Indians and Spaniards. There are also two good havens, called St. Anthony, and St. James, or Santiago. This country of Mechoacan was almost as great as the Empire of Mexico, when Cortez conquered those parts. The King that was then of Mechoacan was called Caconzin, who was a great friend unto Cortez, and a servitor to the Spaniards, and willingly yeelded himselfe as vassall to the King of Spaine; yet such was the cruelty of Don Nunio de Guzman, the first Ruler and President of the Chancery of Mexico after the conquest, that understanding he was put out of his office, he tooke his journey against the Teuchichimecas, and carried in his company five hundred Spaniards, with whom and six thousand Indians which by force he tooke out of Mechoacan, he conquered Xalixco which is now called the new Galicia. And as for this purpose hee passed through Mechoacan, he tooke Prisoner the King Caconzin, (who was quiet and peaceable and stirred not against him) and tooke from him ten thousand markes of plate, and much gold and other treasure, and afterwards burned him, and many other Indian Gentlemen and principall persons of that Kingdome, because they should not complaine, saying that a dead dog biteth not. They were in this Kingdome as superstitious and idolatrous as in the rest of America. No divorcement was permitted amongst them, except the party made a solemn oath, that they looked not the one on the other stedfastly and directly at the time of their marriage. In the burying likewise of their Kings they were superstitious, cruell, and Idolatrous. When any King of Mechoacan happened to be brought to such extremity of sicknesse that hope of life was past; then did he name and appoint which of his sons should inherit the state and Crown, and being known the new King or heir presently sent for all the Governours, Captains, and valiant souldiers, who had any office or charge, to come unto the buriall of his father, and he that came not, from thenceforth was held for a Traitour, and so punished. When the death of the old King was certaine, then came all degrees of estates, and did bring their presents to the new King for the approbation of his Kingdome: But if the King were not throughly dead, but at the point of death, then the gates were shut in, and none permitted to enter; and if he were throughly dead, then began a generall cry and mourning, and they were permitted to come where their dead King lay, and to touch him with their hands. This being done the carkasse was washed with sweet waters, and then a fine shirt put upon him, and a payre of shooes made of Dear skinne put on his feet, and about his ankles were tied bells of gold, about the wrists of his hands were put bracelets of Turkises and of gold likewise; about his neck they did hang collars of pretious stones and also of gold, and rings in his eares, with a great Turkise in his neither lip. Then his body was laid upon a large Beere whereon was placed a good bed under him; on his one side lay a bow with a quiver of arrowes, and on his other side lay an Image made of fine mantles of his own stature or bignesse, with a great tuffe of fine feathers, shooes upon his feet, with bracelets and a collar of gold. While this was a doing, others were busied in washing the men and women, which should be slain for to accompany him into hell. These wretches that were to be slain, were first banqueted and filled with drinke, because they should receive their death with lesse paine. The new King did appoint those who should die for to serve the King his father; and many of those simple soules esteemed that death so odious for a thing of immortall glorious. First six Gentlewomen of noble birth were appointed to die; the one to have the office of keeper of his jewels, which he was wont to weare; another for the office of cup-bearer; another to give him water with a bason and Ewer; another to give him alwaies the Urinall; another to be his Cooke; and another to serve for Landress. They slew also many women, slaves, and free-maidens for to attend upon the Gentlewomen, and moreover one of every occupation within the City. When all these that were appointed to die were washed, and their bellies full with meat and drinke, then they painted their faces yellow, and put garlands of sweet flowers upon each of their heads. Then they went in order of procession before the Beere, whereon the dead King was carried; some went playing on instruments made of Snail shells, and others played upon bones and shells of Sea Tortois, others went whistling, and the most part weeping. The sons of the dead King and other Noble men carried upon their shoulders the Beere where the Corps lay, and proceeded with an easie pace towards the Temple of the God called Curicaveri; his kinsmen went round about the Beer singing a sorrowfull song. The officers and houshold-servants of the Court, with other Magistrates and Rulers of justice bare the Standards and divers other Arms. And about midnight they departed in the order aforesaid out of the Kings Palace with great light of fire-brands, and with a heavy noyse of their trumpets and drummes. The Citizens which dwelt where the Corse passed, attended to make clean the street. And when they were come to the Temple, they went four times round about a great fire which was prepared of Pine tree to burn the dead body. Then the Beer was laid upon the fire, and in the meane while that the body was burning, they mawled with a club those which had the garlands, and afterward buried them four and four as they were apparelled behind the Temple. The next day in the morning the ashes, bones and jewels were gathered and laid upon a rich mantle, the which was carried to the Temple gate, where the Preists attended to blesse those divellish reliques, whereof they made a dow or paste, and thereof an Image, which was apparelled like a man, with a visor on his face, and all other sorts of jewels that the dead King was wont to weare, so that it seemed a gallant Idoll. At the foot of the Temple staires they opened a grave ready made, which was square, large, two fadome deepe, it was also hanged with new mats roundabout, and a faire bed therein, in the which one of the Preists placed the Idoll made of ashes with his eyes towards the East part, and did hang round about the walls Targets of gold and silver, with bowes and arrows, and many gallant tuffes of feathers with earthen vessels, as pots, dishes, and platters, so that the grave was filled up with houshold-stuffe, chests covered with leather, apparel, Jewels, meate drinke and armour. This done, the grave was shut up and made sure with beames, boardes, and floored with earth on the top. All those Gentlemen who had served or touched any thing in the buriall, washed themselves and went to dinner in the Court or yard of the Kings house without any table, and having dined they wiped their hands upon certain lockes of Cotton-wooll, hanging downe their heads, and not speaking any word, except it were to aske for drinke. This ceremonie endured five daies, and in all that time no fire was permitted to be kindled in the City, except in the Kings house and Temples, nor yet any corne was ground, or market kept, nor any durst goe out of their houses, shewing all the sorrow that might be possible for the death of their King. And this was the superstitious manner of burying the Kings of Mechoacan. This people did punish adultery most rigorously; for to commit it was death as well for the man as the woman. But if the adulterer were a Gentleman, his head was decked with feathers, and after that he was hanged, and his body burned; and for this offence was no pardon, either for man or woman. But for avoiding of adultery they did permit other common women, but no publike and ordinary stewes. Now the Indians of Mechoacan are greatly taken with the popish devices, and are strong in that religion, as any part of America.
The fourth and last Province of the Countrey or Empire of Mexico, is called Galicia nova, and is watered with two very great rivers, the one named Piastle, and the other San Sebastian. This Province glorieth in many great Townes of Indians; but especially in six, inhabited both by Indians and Spaniards; the first and chiefest is Xalisco, taken by Nunio de Guzman 1530. when he fled from Mexico in a rage, and tooke prisoner and burned the King of Mechoacan. The second is Guadalaiara. The third Coanum. The fourth Compostella. The fifth, St. Espirit. The sixth, Capola, which now is called Nova Mexico, new Mexico. And here it is that the Spaniards are daily warring against the Indians which live Northward, and are not as yet reduced nor brought under the Spanish yoake and government. They are valiant Indians, and hold the Spaniards hard to it; and have great advantage against them in the rocks and mountaines, where they abide and cut off many Spaniards. Their chief weapons are but bowes and arrowes, and yet with them from the thick Woods, hils and rockes they annoy and offend the Spaniards exceedingly. I have heard some Spaniards say that they flie and climbe up the rocks like Goates; and when they draw nigh unto them, then they cry out with a hideous noise shooting their arrowes at them, and in an instant are departed and fled unto another rock. The reason why the Spaniards are so earnest to pursue and conquer these Indians, more then many others of America, which as yet are not brought in subjection to the Spaniards, is for the many Mines of silver and treasure of gold which they know to bee there. They have got already sure possession of part of those riches in the Mines, called St. Lewis Sacatecas, from whence they send all the silver that is coyned in the Mint houses of Mexico and the City of Angels, and every yeere besides to Spain in silver wedges at least six Millions. But the further the Spaniards goe to the North, still more riches they discover; and faine would they subdue all those Northern parts (as I have heard them say) lest our English from Virginia, and their other plantations, get in before them. I have heard them wonder that our English enter no further into the maine land; surely say they, either they feare the Indians, or else with a little paultry Tobacco they have as much as will maintaine them in lazinesse. Certainly they intend to conquer through those heathenish Indians, untill by land they come to Florida and Virginia, (for so they boast) if they bee not met with by some of our Northern Nations of Europe, who may better keep them off then those poor Indians, and may doe God greater and better service with those rich Mines, then the Spaniards hitherto have done.