Thus having spoken somewhat of the foure Provinces of Mexico, which was the first member of the division Mexican and Peruan; Now I shall briefly say somewhat further of three more Countries belonging to the Mexican or Northern Tract as opposite to the Peruan, omiting Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia Corterialis, and Estotilandia, because I will not write as many doe by relation and hearsay, but by more sure intelligence, insight and experience. In my first division next to Mexico, I placed Quivira, Jucatan, and Nicaragua; of these three therefore I shall say a little, and then some what of the Peruan part. Quivira is seated on the most Western part of America, just over against Tartary, from whence being not much distant some suppose that the Inhabitants first came into this new World. And indeed the Indians of America in many things seeme to bee of the race and progenie of the Tartars, in that Quivira and all the West side of the Country towards Asia is farre more populous then the East towards Europe, which sheweth these parts to have been first inhabited. Secondly, their uncivility, and barbarous properties tell us that they are most like the Tartars of any. Thirdly, the West side of America if it bee not continent with Tartary, is yet disjoyned by a small straight. Fourthly, the people of Quivira neerest to Tartary, are said to follow the seasons and pasturing of their cattell like the Tartarians. All this side of America is full of herbage, and injoyeth a temperate aire. The people are desirous of glasse more then of gold; and in some places to this day are Cannibals. The chief riches of this Country are their Kine, which are to them as we say of our Ale to drunkards, meat, drink and cloth, and more too. For the Hides yeeld them houses, or at least the coverings of them; their bones bodkins, their hair thred, their sinews ropes; their horns, mawes and bladders, vessels; their dung, fire; their Calve skinnes, budgets to draw and keepe water; their blood, drink; their flesh, meat.
There is thought to bee some traffique from China, or Cathaya, hither to those parts, where as yet the Spaniards have not entred. For when Vazquez de Coronado conquered some part of it, hee saw in the further Sea certaine ships, not of common making; which seemed to bee well laden, and bare in their prowes, Pelicans, which could not bee conjectured to come from any Country, but one of these two. In Quivira there are but two Provinces knowne unto us, which are Cibola, and Nova Albion. Cibola lyeth on the Eastside, whose chief City is of the same name, and denominates the whole Province. The chief Town next to Cibola is called Totontaa, which is temperate and pleasant, being situated upon a River so called. The third Town worth mentioning is called Tinguez, which was burnt by the Spaniards; who under the conduct of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado made this Province subject to the King of Spain, Anno Dom. 1540. And since this Town of Tinguez hath been rebuilt and inhabited by the Spaniards; There is a goodly Colledge of Jesuites, who only preach to the Indians of that country. Nova Albion lyeth on the West side towards Tartary, and is very little inhabited by the Spaniards, who have found no wealth or riches there. Our ever Renowned and Noble Captain Sir Francis Drake discovered it, entred upon it, and hee named it Nova Albion, because the King that then was, did willingly submit himself unto our Queen Elizabeth.
The Country abounds with fruits pleasing both the eye and the Palate. The people are given to hospitality, but withall to witchcraft and adoration of devils. The bounds between this Quivira and Mexico Empire is Mar Virmiglio, or Californio. The third Kingdome belonging to the Mexican part and Northern Tract is Jucatan; which was first discovered by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova, in the year 1517. It is called Jucatan, not as some have conceited from Joctan the son of Heber, who they thinke came out of the East, where the Scripture placeth him, Gen. 12. 23. to inhabite here, but from Jucatan which in the Indian tongue, signifieth, what say you? for when the Spaniards at their first arriving in that Country did aske of the Indians the name of the place, the Savages not understanding what they meaned, replyed unto them Jucatan, which is, what say you? whereupon the Spaniards named it, and ever since have called it Jucatan. The whole Country is at least 900 miles in circuit, and is a Peninsula. It is situated over against the Isle of Cuba; and is divided into three parts, first Jucatan it selfe, whose Cities of greatest worth, are Campeche, Valladolid, Merida, Simaricas, and one which for his greatnesse and beauty, they call Caire. This Country among the Spaniards is held to bee poor; the chief Commodities in it are hony, wax, Hides, and some Sugar, but no Indigo, Cochinil, nor Mines of silver; There are yet some drugs much esteemed of by the Apothecaries, Cana fistula, Zarzaparilla especially; and great store of Indian Maiz. There is also abundance of good Wood and Timber fit for shipping, whereof the Spaniards doe make very strong ships, which they use in their voiages to Spain and back again. In the yeer 1632. the Indians of this Country in many places of it were like to rebell against their Spanish Governour, who vexed them sorely, making them bring in to him their Fowles and Turkies (whereof there is also great abundance) and their hony and wax, (wherein hee traded) at the rate and price which hee pleased to set them for his better advantage; which was such a disadvantage to them, that to enrich him they impoverished themselves; and so resolved to betake themselves to the Woods and Mountaines; where in a rebellious way they continued some Months, untill the Franciscan Fryers, who have there great power over them, reduced them back, and the Governour (lest hee should quite lose that Country by a further rebellion) granted to them not onely a generall pardon in the Kings name, but for the future promised to use them more mildly and gently.
The second part of it is called Guatemala, (wherein I lived for the space of almost twelve yeers) whose Inhabitants have lost formerly halfe a million of their kinsmen and friends by the unmercifull dealing of the Spaniards; and yet for all the losse of so many thousands, there is no part of America more flourishing then this with great and populous Indians Townes. They may thank the Fryers who defend them daily against the Spaniards cruelty, and this yet for their owne ends; for while the Indians flourish and increase, the Fryers purses flourish also and are filled. This Country is very fresh and plentifull. The chief Cities are Guatemala, Cassuca, and Chiapa; whereof I shall speak more largely hereafter. The third part of Jucatan is Acasamil, which is an Island over against Guatemala which is now commonly called by the Spaniards Sta Cruz, whose chief Towne is Sta. Cruz.
The fourth and last Country of the division of the Mexican part and Northern Tract of America (which is under the Spanish Government, and my best knowledge and experience) is Nicaragua, which standeth South East from Mexico, and above foure hundred and fifty leagues from it. Yet it agreeth somewhat with Mexico in nature both of soile and Inhabitants. The people are of good stature, and of colour indifferent white. They had, before they received Christianity, a setled and politick forme of Government; Onely, as Solon appointed no Law for a mans killing of his father, so had this people none for the murtherer of a King, both of them conceiting, that men were not so unnaturall, as to commit such crimes. A theef they judged not to death, but adjudged him to be slave to that man whom hee had robbed; till by his service hee had made satisfaction: a course truely more mercifull and not lesse just, then the losse of life.
This Countrey is so pleasing to the eye, and abounding in all things necessary, that the Spaniards call it Mahomets Paradise. Among other flourishing trees, here groweth one of that nature, that a man cannot touch any of its branches, but it withereth presently. It is as plentifull of Parrets, as our Countrey of England is of Crowes; Turkies, Fowles, Quailes and Rabbets are ordinary meat there. There are many populous Indian Townes (though not so many as about Guatemala) in this Countrey; and especially two Cities of Spaniards, the one Leon, a Bishops Seat, and the other Granada, which standeth upon a Lake of fresh water, which hath above three hundred miles in compasse, and having no intercourse with the Ocean, doth yet continually ebbe and flow. But of this Countrey, and of this City especially I shall say somewhat more, when I come to speake of my travailing through it.
Thus I have briefly touched upon the Mexican part, and so much of the Northern Tract as is under the King of Spain his Dominion, leaving more particulars, untill I come to shew the order of my being in and journeying through some of these Countries. I will now likewise give you a glimpse of the Southern Tract, and Peruan part of America. Which containeth chiefly five great Countries or Kingdomes, some in whole, and others in part, subject to the Crown of Spain and Portugal, which are, first Castella aurea; secondly, Gujana; thirdly, Peru; fourthly, Brasile; fifthly, Chille. But I will not fill my History with what others have written of the foure last named Countries, wherein I was not much; but what I could learne of Peru, I will briefly speak, and so come to the first Castella aurea, through which I travailed. Peru is held to be yet more rich a Countrey then is Mexico; for although it hath not the conveniency of trafique by the North Sea, which Mexico hath; but doth send the Commodities in it to Panama, and from thence transports them either over the straight Isthmus, or by the River Chiagre to Portabel upon the North Sea; yet the Countrey is farre richer then Mexico, by reason of the more abundance of Mines of silver which are in it. The mountaines named Potosi are thought to be of no other metall, which the King of Spain will not have to be opened until they have exhausted those which are already discovered and digged, and have found the Spaniards worke enough, and yeelded them treasure enough ever since they first conquered those parts. The soile is very fruitfull of all such fruits as are found in Spain. The Olives are bigger then those of Spain, the oyle sweeter and cleerer. The Grapes yeeld also a wine farre stronger then any of Spain, and there is much made, by reason it cannot conveniently bee brought from Spain. There is likewise wheat in great store; and all this fruitfull soile lyeth low under high Mountaines which divide betwixt Indians not as yet conquered and Brasile. But those Mountaines are a great helpe unto those pleasant Valleys with the waters that fall from them; for in all those parts inhabited by Spaniards towards the South Sea, it is most certain and most observable that it never raineth, in so much that the houses are uncovered on the tops, and onely matts laid over them to keep off the dust, and yet is this Countrey what with the waters that fall from the Mountaines, what with the morning and evening dewes, as fruitfull and plentifull as any Countrey in the World. The chief City is called Lima, where there is a Viceroy and a Court of Chancery, and an Arch-Bishop. It hath a Port some two miles from it named Callau; where lie the ships that convey yearly the treasure of that Kingdome to Panama. There lie also other ships, which trafique to the East-India's, and to all the Coasts of Guatemala, and to Acapulco the Southern Haven of Mexico. This Port of Callau is not so strong as the great, nay inestimable wealth that is commonly in it and in the City of Lima should require, for I have heard many Spaniards say, that in the yeare 1620. a few ships of Hollanders (as some say) or of English (as others affirme) appeared before the Haven waiting for the ships that were to convey the Kings revenews to Panama, and hearing that they were departed (though by a false report) followed them, and so forsooke the attempting to take the Callau; which certainly had they manly attempted, they had taken it, and in it the greatest treasure that in any one part of the world could have beene found. But the Spaniards seldome see thereabout foraine ships, and so live more carelesly in securing or strengthning that Coast. Though Peru bee thus rich in fruits and Mines, yet Chille farre exceedeth it in gold; which edgeth the Spaniards to a constant and continuall Warre with the Inhabitants, which are a strong, warlike, and most valiant people. They are grown as skilfull in the use of weapons, swords, Pistols and Muskets as the Spaniards, and have taken many Spaniards, men and women prisoners; and or the Spanish women have had so many children, called Mestizoes, that by them (who have proved most valiant) they have much increased both their strength and skill. They hold the Spaniards hard to it, and the War is become the most dangerous of any the Spaniards have; in so much that the Counsell of Spain doth pick out from Flanders and Italy, the best souldiers to send them thither. And a Captaine that hath served long, well and faithfully in Flanders, by way of credit and promotion is sent to the Warres of Chille, to fight for that great treasure of gold, which certainly is there. The Spaniards have in it three faire Cities; the Conception (which is a Bishops Seat) and Santiago, and Valdivia. This last is so named from one Valdivia, who was Governour of it, and the first cause and author of those Wars.
This man was so extraordinarily covetous of the gold of that Countrey, that hee would not let the Indians possesse or injoy any of it themselves; but did vex them, whip, and beat, yea and kill some of them, because they brought him not enough, and imployed them daily in seeking it out for him, charging them with a tax and imposition of so much a day: which the Indians not being able to performe, nor to satisfie an unsatiable minde and greedy covetousnesse, resolved to rebell, but so that first they would fill and satiate his heart with gold so that hee should never more covet after that yellow and glittering metall. Wherefore they joyned and combined themselves together in a warlike posture, and tooke some quantity of gold and melted it, and with it resolutely came upon Valdivia the Governour, saying, O Valdivia we see thou hast a greedy and unsatiable minde and desire after our gold; wee have not been able to satisfie thee with it hitherto; but now wee have devised a way to satiate this thy greedy covetousnesse; here is now enough, drink thy full of it; and with these words they tooke him, and powred the melted gold downe his throat, wherewith he died, never more coveting after that bright and shining drosse, and naming with his name and death that City of Valdivia, and with his covetousnesse leaving a rebellion which hath continued to a cruell and bloody War unto this day.
Guiana and Brasile I shall omit to speak of, not having been in any part of them. Brasile is little talked of by the Spaniards, belonging to the Crowne of Portugall, and now part of it to the high and mighty States of the Netherlands, who will better satisfie by their Histories, and acquaint Europe with the riches that are in it.
I return unto the first part mentioned by me in the Southern and Peruan Tract, which was said to bee Castella aurea, golden Castile, so called for the abundance of gold that is found in it. This containeth the Northern part of Peruana, and part of the Isthmus, which runneth between the North and South Sea. Besides the gold in it, yet it is admirably stored with silver, Spices, Pearls, and medicinall Herbes. It is divided into foure Provinces. The first is called Castella del oro; the second, Nova Andaluzia; the third Nova Granada; the fourth, Carthagena. Castella del oro is situated in the very Isthmus, and is not very populous by reason of the unhealthfulnesse of the aire, and noisome savour of the standing pooles. The chief places belonging to the Spaniards, are first Theonimay, or Nombre de Dios on the East; the second, which is six leagues from Nombre de Dios is Portabel, now chiefly inhabited by the Spaniards and Mulattoes, and Blackmores, and Nombre de Dios almost utterly forsaken by reason of its unhealthfulnesse. The ships which were wont to anchor in Nombre de Dios, and there to take in the Kings treasure, which is yeerly brought from Peru to Panama, and from thence to the North Sea, now harbour themselves in Portabel; which signifyeth Porto bello, a faire and goodly Haven, for so indeed it is, and well fortified at the entrance with three Castles, which can reach and command one another. The third and chiefe place belonging to the Spaniards in Castella del oro is Panama, which is on the Westside and upon the South Sea. This City and Nombre de Dios were both built by Didacus de Niquesa. And Nombre de Dios was so called, because Niquesa having been crossed with many mischances and misadventures at Sea, when hee came to this place greatly rejoyced, and bad his men now goe on shore in Nombre de Dios, in the name of God. But as I have before observed, the aire being here very unhealthy, the King of Spain in the yeare 1584. commanded the houses of Nombre de Dios to be pulled downe, and to be rebuilt in a more healthy and convenient place: which was performed by Peter Arias in Portabel. But being now upon Nombre de Dios, I should wrong my Country if I should not set out to the publike view the worth of her people shewed upon this place, and to this day talked on and admired by the Spaniards, who doe not only remember Sir Francis Drake, & teach their children to dread and fear even his name for his attempts upon Carthagena and all the coast about, and especially upon Nombre de Dios, and from it marching as farre as the great mountaine called St. Pablo towards Panama: but furthermore keep alive amongst them (and in this my History it shall not die) the name of one of Sir Francis Drake his followers and Captains named John Oxenham, whose attempt on this coast was resolute and wonderfull.