Concerning two daily and common Drinkes, or Potions much used in the India's, called Chocolatte, and Atolle.
Chocolatte being this day used not onely over all the West-India's, but also in Spain, Italy, and Flanders, with approbation of many learned Doctors in Physick, among whom Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma; (who lived once in the India's) hath composed a learned and curious Treatise concerning the nature and quality of this drink; I thought fit to insert here also somewhat of it concerning my own experience for the space of twelve yeers. This name Chocolatte is an Indian name, and is compounded from Atte, as some say or as others, Atle, which in the Mexican language signifieth water, & from the sound which the water (wherein is put the Chocolatte) makes, as Choco, Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called a Molinet, or Molinillo, untill it bubble and rise unto a froath. And as there it is a name compounded, so in English wee may well call it a compounded or a confectioned drink wherein are found many and severall Ingredients, according to the different disposition of the body of them that use it. But the chief Ingredient (without which it cannot be made) is called Cacao, a kind of nut or kernell bigger then a great Almond, which growes upon a tree called the tree of Cacao, and ripens in a great huske, wherein sometimes are found more, sometimes lesse Cacao's, sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, nay forty, and above. This Cacao, though as every simple, it containes the quality of the foure Elements, yet in the common opinion of most Physitians, it is held to bee cold and dry, a prædominio; It is also in the substance that rules these two qualities, restringent and obstructive, of the nature of the Element of the earth. And as it is thus a mixed, and not a simple Element, it hath parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and particularly it partakes of those which correspond with the Element of Aire, that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by unctious parts; there being drawn out of the Cacao much Butter, which in the India's I have seen drawn out of it by the Criolian women for to oint their faces. And let not this seeme impossible to believe, that this graine or nut of Cacao should bee said to bee first cold and dry, and then hot and moist; for though experience bee a thousand witnesses, yet instances will further clear this truth; and first in the Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are binding, cold and dry, which have a virtue to strengthen, bind and stop the loosenesse of the belly. Secondly, wee see this cleerly in the steel, which having so much of the nature of the earth, as being heavy, thick, cold, and dry, should be thought unproper for the curing of Oppilations, but rather to bee apt to increase them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against them. The authority of Galen may further cleare this in the third booke of the Qualities of simples, where hee teacheth that almost all those medicines, which to our sense seeme to be simple, are notwithstanding naturally compounded, containing in themselves contrary qualities, that is to say, a quality to expell, and to retaine, to incrassate and to extenuate, to rarifie and to condense. And in the fifteenth Chapter following in the same booke, he puts an example of the broth of a Cock, which moves the belly, and the flesh hath the virtue to binde. Yet further that this differing virtue and quality is found in divers substances, or parts of simple medicaments, he shewes in the first book of his simple medicines in the seventeenth Chapter, bringing the example of milke, in which three substances are found and separated, that is to say, the substance of cheese, which hath the virtue to stop the fluxe of the belly; and the substance of whay, which is purging, and butter, as it is expressed Chap. 15. Also we find in wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner substance, which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froath; and a third substance which we properly call wine; and every one of these substances containes in it selfe divers qualities and virtues, in the colour, in the smell, and in other accidents.
And this is very comformable to reason, if we consider that every aliment, be it never so simple, begets and produceth in the liver four humours, not only differing in temper, but also in substance; and begets more or lesse of that humour, according as the aliment hath more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour, which is most ingendred. From which examples we may gather that when the Cacao is grinded and stirred, the divers parts, which nature hath given it, doe artificially and intimately mixe themselves one with another; and so the unctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy represseth, and leaveth them not so binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocrity, more inclining to the warme, and moist temper of the aire, then to the cold and dry of the earth; as it doth appear, when it is made fit to drink, that scarce two turnes are given with the Molinet, when there ariseth a fatty scum, by which is seen, how much it partaketh of the oyly part. So that from all that hath been said, the error of those is wel discovered, who speaking of this drink of Chocolatte, say, that it causeth oppilations, because Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction were not corrected and modified by the intimate mixing of one part with another, by meanes of the grinding, as is said before. Besides it having so many ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this effect, that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not to binde. And leaving aside more reasons, this truth is evidently seen in the Cacao it selfe; which if it be not stirred, grinded and compounded to make the Chocolatte; but be eaten as it is in the fruit (as many Criolian and Indian women eat it) it doth notably obstruct and cause stoppings, and make them looke of a broken, pale and earthy colour, as doe those that eat earthen ware, as pots, or pieces of lime-walls (which is much used among the Spanish women thinking that pale and earthy colour, though with obstructions and stoppings, well becomes them) and for this certainly in the Cacao thus eaten there is no other reason, but that the divers substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled by the mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which wee have spoken of before.
The tree which doth beare this fruit, is so delicate, and the earth where it groweth so extream hot, that to keep the tree from being consumed by the sunne, they first plant other trees, which they call, las Madres del Cacao, mothers of the Cacao; and when these are grown up to a good height fit to shade the Cacao trees, then they plant the Cacaotals, or the trees of Cacao; that when they first shew themselves above the ground, those trees, which are already grown may shelter them, and as mothers nourish, defend, and shadow them from the sunne; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but many of them (as I have said before) are in one great huske or cod, and therein besides every grain is closed up in a white juicy skin, which the women also love to suck off from the Cacao, finding it coole, and in the mouth dissolving into water. There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a darke colour inclining towards red, being round and peeked at the ends; the other is broader, and bigger, and flatter, and not so round, which they call, Patlaxte, and this is white, and more drying, and is sold a great deal cheaper then the former. And this especially, more then the other, causeth watchfullnesse, and drives away sleep, and therefore is not so usefull as the ordinary, and is chiefly spent by the ordinary and meaner sort of people. As for the rest of the ingredients which make this Chocolatticall confection, there is notable variety; for some put into it black Pepper, which is not well approved of by the Physitians, because it is so hot and dry, but onely for one who hath a very cold liver; but commonly instead of this Pepper, they put into it long red Pepper, called Chile, which though it be hot in the mouth, yet is cool and moist in the operation. It is further compounded with white Sugar, Cinnamon, Clove, Anniseed, Almonds, Hasell-nuts, Orejuela, Bainilla, Sapayoll, Orenge flower water, some Muske, and as much of Achiotte, as will make it looke of the colour of a red bricke. But how much of each of these may be applyed to such a quantity of Cacao, the severall dispositions of mens bodies must be their rule. The ordinary receipt of Antonio Colmenero was this; To every hundred Cacao's, two cods of Chile, called long red Pepper, one handfull of Anniseed and Orejuela's, and two of the flowers called Mechasuchil, or Bainilla, or instead of this six roses of Alexandria, beat to powder, two drams of Cinnamon, of Almonds and Hasel-nuts, of each one dozen; of white Sugar halfe a pound, of Achiotte, enough to give it the colour. This Author thought neither Clove, nor Musk, nor any sweet water fit, but in the India's they are much used. Others use to put in Maiz, or Paniso, which is very windy; but such doe it onely for their profit, by increasing the quantity of the Chocolatte; because every fanega or measure of Maiz containing about a bushel and a half, is sold for eight shillings, and they that sell Chocolatte, sell it for four shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price. The Cinnamon is held one of the best ingredients, and denied by none, for that it is hot and dry in the third degree, it provokes urine, and helpes the kidneys and reines of those who are troubled with cold diseases, and it is good for the eyes, and in effect it is cordiall, as appeareth by the Author of these verses,
Commoda & urinæ Cinamomum & renibus affert,
Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat.
The Achiotte hath a piercing, attenuating quality, as appeareth by the common practice of the Physitians in the India's, experienced daily in the effects of it, who do give it to their Patients to cut and attenuate the grosse humors, which doe cause shortnesse of breath, and stopping of urine: and so it is used for any kind of oppilations, and is given for the stoppings which are in the breast, or in the region of the belly, or any other part of the body. This Achiotte also groweth upon a tree in round huskes, which are full of red graines, from whence the Achiotte is taken, and first made into a paste, and then being dried up is fashioned either into round balls or cakes, or into the forme of little brickes, and so is sold. As concerning the long red Pepper, there are foure sorts of it; one is called Chilchotes; the other is very little, which they call Chilterpin, and these two kinds are very quick and biting. The other two are called, Tonalchiles, and these are but moderately hot, for they are eaten with bread by the Indians, as they eat other fruits. But that which is usually put into Chocolatte, is called Chilpaclagua, which hath a broad huske, and is not so biting as the first, nor so gentle as the last. The Mechasuchil, or Bainilla hath a purgative quality. All these ingredients are usually put into the Chocolatte, and by some more, according to their fancies. But the meaner sort of people, as Blackmores and Indians, commonly put nothing into it, but Cacao, Achiotte, Maiz, and a few Chiles with a little Anniseed. And though the Cacao is mingled with all these ingredients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater quantity of Cacao, then of all the rest of the ingredients, which serve to temper the coldnesse of the Cacao; from whence it followeth that this Chocolatticall confection is not so cold as the Cacao, nor so hot as the rest of the ingredients, but there results from the action and reaction of these ingredients, a moderate temper, which may be good, both for the cold and hot stomacks, being taken moderately.
Now for the making or compounding of this drinke, I shall set downe here the method. The Cacao, and the other ingredients must be beaten in a morter of stone, or (as the Indians use) ground upon a broad stone, which they call Metate, and is only made for that use. But first the ingredients are all to be dried, except the Achiotte, with care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; for if they be overdried, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The Cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first beaten, with the Anniseed, and then the Cacao, which must be beaten by little and little, till it be all powdred; and in the beating it must be turned round, that it may mixe the better. Every one of these ingredients must be beaten by it selfe, and then all be put into the vessell, where the Cacao is, which you must stirre together with a spoon, and then take out that paste, and put it into the morter, under which there must be a little fire, after the confection is made; but if more fire be put under then will only warme it, then the unctuous part will dry away. The Achiotte also must be put in in the beating, that it may the better take the colour. All the ingredients must be searsed, save onely the Cacao, and if from the Cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the better. When it is well beaten, and incorporated (which will be known by the shortnesse of it) then with a spoon (so in the India's is used) is taken up some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, or else without a spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard. Those that make it into tablets, put a spoonefull of the paste upon a peece of paper (the Indians put it upon the leaf of a plantin tree) where, being put into the shade (for in the sunne it melts and dissolves) it growes hard; and then bowing the paper or leaf, the tablet falls off, by reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if it be put into anything of earth, or wood, it stickes fast, and will not come off, but with scraping or breaking. The manner of drinking it, is divers; the one (being the way most used in Mexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a tablet in hot water, and then stirring and beating it in the cup, where it is to be drunke, with a Molinet, and when it is well stirred to a scumme or froath, then to fill the cup with hot Atolle and so drinke it sup by sup. Another way is, that the Chocolatte, being dissolved with cold water and stirred with the Molinet, and the scumme taken off and put into another vessel; the remainder be set upon the fire, with as much sugar as will sweeten it, and when it is warme, then to powre it upon the scum which was taken off before, and so to drinke it. But the most ordinary way, is, to warme the water very hot, and then to powre out halfe the cup full that you mean to drinke; and to put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably the water, and then grind it well with the Molinet, and when it is well ground and risen to a scum, to fill the cup with hot water, and so drinke it by sups (having sweetned it with Sugar) and to eat it with a little conserve, or maple bread, steeped into the Chocolatte. Besides these waies there is another way (which is much used in the Island of Santo Domingo) which is, to put the Chocolatte into a pipkin, with a little water, and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved, and then to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of the Chocolatte, and then to boyle it againe, untill there comes an oily scumme upon it, and then to drinke it. There is another way yet to drinke Chocolatte, which is cold, which the Indians use at feasts, to refresh themselves, and it is made after this manner. The Chocolatte (which is made with none or very few ingredients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially when the Cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay aside in a little dish by it selfe, and then put sugar into that part from whence was taken the scum, and then powre it from on high into the scumme, and so drinke it cold. And this drinke is so cold, that it agreeth not with all mens stomacks; for by experience it hath been found, that it doth hurt, by causing pains in the stomack, especially to women. The third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not bee used as well in England as in other parts both hot and cold; for where it is so much used, the most, if not all, as well in the India's, as in Spaine, Italy, Flanders (which is a cold Countrey) find that it agreeth well with them. True it is, it is used more in the India's, then in the European parts, because there the stomackes are more apt to faint then here, and a cup of Chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomack. For my self I must say, I used it twelve yeers constantly, drinking one cup in the morning, another yet before dinner between nine or ten of the clock; another within an houre or two after dinner, and another between four and five in the afternoon; and when I was purposed to sit up late to study, I would take another cup about seven or eight at night, which would keep me waking till about midnight. And if by chance I did neglect any of these accustomed houres, I presently found my stomacke fainty. And with this custome I lived twelve yeers in those parts healthy, without any obstructions, or oppilations, not knowing what either ague, or feaver was. Yet I will not dare to regulate by mine owne the bodies of others, nor take upon me the skil of a Physitian, to appoint and define at what time and by what persons this drinke may be used. Onely I say, I have known some that have been the worse for it, either for drinking it with too much sugar, which hath relaxed their stomackes, or for drinking it too often. For certainly if it be drunke beyond measure, not only this Chocolatte but all other drinkes, or meats, though of themselves they are good and wholesome, they may be hurtfull. And if some have found it oppilative, it hath come by the too too much use of it; as when one drinkes overmuch wine, instead of comforting and warming himselfe, he breeds and nourisheth cold diseases, because nature cannot overcome it, not turne so great a quantity into good nourishment. So he that drinkes much Chocolatte, which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all the parts; and that part which remaines in the slender veines of the liver must needs cause oppilations and obstructions. But lastly, to conclude with this Indian drinke, I will adde what I have heard Physitians of the India's say of it, and have seen it by experience in others (though never I could find it in my selfe) that those that use this Chocolatte much, grow fat and corpulent by it; which indeed may seem hard to beleeve; for considering that all the ingredients, except the Cacao, doe rather extenuate, then make fat, because they are hot and dry in the third degree. And we have already said, that the qualities which doe predominate in Cacao, are cold and dry, which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body. Neverthelesse it may be answered that the many unctuous parts, which have been proved to be in the Cacao, are those which pinguifie and make fat; and the hotter ingredients of this composition serve for a guide, or vehicall, to passe to the liver, and the other parts, untill they come to the fleshy parts; and there finding a like substance which is hot and moist, as is the unctuous part, converting it selfe into the same substance, it doth augment and pinguifie. But how then might this Cacao with the other Indian ingredients be had in England? even by trading in Spaine for it, as we doe for other commodities; or not sleighting it so much as we and the Hollanders have often done upon the Indian seas; of whom I have heard the Spaniards say that when we have taken a good prize, a ship laden with Cacao, in anger and wrath we have hurled over board this good commoditie, not regarding the worth and goodnesse of it, but calling it in bad Spanish, Cagaruta de Carnero, or sheeps dung in good English. It is one of the necessariest commodities in the India's, and nothing enricheth Chiapa in particular more then it, whither are brought from Mexico and other parts, the rich bags of Patacons onely for this Cagaruta de Carnero, which we call sheeps dung. The other drinke which is much used in the Indians is called Atolle, of which I will say but a little, because I know it cannot be used here. This was the drinke of the ancient Indians, and is a thick pap made of the flower of Maiz, taking off the huskes from it, which is windy and melancholy. This is commonly carried by the Indian women to the Markets hot in pots, and there is sold in cups. The Criolian students, as wee goe to a Taverne to drink a cup of wine, so they go in company to the publike Markets, and as publikely buy and drinke by measure of this Atolle; which somtimes is seasoned with a little Chile, or long Pepper, and then it pleaseth them best. But the Nuns and Gentlewomen have got a trick of confectioning it with Cinnamon, Sweet-waters, Amber, or Muske, and store of Sugar, and thus it is held to be a most strong and nourishing drinke, which the Physitians doe prescribe unto a weake body, as we doe here our Almond-milke. But of what England never knew nor tasted, I will say no more, but hasten my penne to Guatemala, which hath been my second patria.