Shewing my journy from the City of Chiapa, unto Guatemala, and the chief places in the way.
The time now being come that I was to leave the little City of Chiapa, I took some occasion before-hand to take my leave of my best friends, whose children I had taught, and at my departure I must confesse I found them kind and bountifull, except it were Donna Magdalena de Morales, from whom I did not expect, neither did I desire any farewell, or Adieu token. But among all, the Governours wife was most liberall unto mee, sending mee many boxes of Aromaticall Chocolatte, and one extraordinary great box with foure severall divisions of different conserves gilt over, besides many Maple breads, and Biskets made with Egs and Sugar, a present it was which might have been sent to a greater man then to a poor worthlesse Mendicant Fryer, and with this in a handkerchief a dozen peeces of eight. Don Melchor del Velazco yet exceeded her, in words and complements I meane, but in deeds, hee and all the crew of the Criolians must thinke to come short of them, who are borne in Spain. The first Town I went unto, was Theopixca, six leagues from Chiapa, a faire and great Towne of Indians, who are held to bee next unto the Indians of the other Chiapa in sitting and riding a horse. In this town is nothing so considerable as the Church, which is great and strong, and the musick belonging unto it sweet and harmonious. The Vicar or Curate of this place was one Fryer Peter Martir a Criolian, whom I knew could not indure the Prior nor mee, yet he would dissemble a love complementall exceeding well, and in outward shews raise it up to gradus ut Octo. He knowing my prevalency with the Prior, durst not but give mee very good entertainment, which continued two dayes, untill I was weary of his complements.
The third day I tooke my leave of him, who would not yet leave mee, but would conduct mee to Comitlan, whither I was invited by the Prior of that Cloister, named Fryer Thome Rocolano, a French man, who being a stranger to the Spaniards (for besides him and my selfe there was no other stranger in that County) desired acquaintance with mee, which hee began to settle by meeting mee at the half way with many Indians on horse back, having provided an harbour where wee might more conveniently conferre and rest while our Chocolatte and other refreshments were provided. But the Criolian Peter Martir was not a little envious, (as I was afterwards informed in the Cloister) to see mee so much made of and esteemed in the Country, yet his faire words and complements farre exceeded the sincerity and down-rightnesse of my French friend. At Comitlan I staied a whole weeke, riding about with the Prior unto the Indian townes, and downe the hill to the valley of Copanabastla, where I injoyed much pastime and recreation among the Fryers and Indians and was feasted after the manner of that Country, which knoweth more of an Epicurian diet then doth England, or any part of Europe; nay I am perswaded (and I have heard Spaniards confesse it) that Spain hath taken from the Indians since the conquest many lessons for the dressing of severall dishes and compleating a feast or banquet. After the week was ended my French friend the Prior conducted mee to Izquintenango, to see mee well furnished up the Mountaines of Cuchumatlanes. This Towne (as I have formerly observed) standeth almost at the end of the Valley of Copanabastla, and within two leagues of the Cuchumatlanes. It is one of the finest Indian Townes of all the Province of Chiapa, and very rich, by reason of the much Cotton wooll in it, and especially by reason of its situation, for standing in the Roade way to Guatemala, all the Merchants of the Country that trade with their mules that way, passe through this Towne, and there buy and sell, enriching it with mony and farre brought Commodities. It is most plentifully stored with fruits, especially with what they call Pina's or Pine fruit. It standeth close by the great River, which runneth to Chiapa of the Indians, and hath its spring not farre off from the Cuchumatlanes, and yet at this Town is very broad and deep. No man nor beast travelling to Guatemala can goe into it, or from Guatemala can goe out of it, but by ferrying over. And the Rode being much used and beaten by travellers, and by such as they call Requas of mules (every Requa consisting of fifty or threescore mules) this Ferry is day and night imployed, and yeelds much treasure to the town at the yeers end. The Indians of the Town besides the ferry boat, have made many other little boats, or Canoa's to goe up and down the River. Hither when the Prior of Comitlan had brought me, we were waited for by the Vicar or Fryer of that Town with the chief and principall Indians, and most of the Canoa's. As we ferryed over, the little Canoa's went before us with the Quiristers of the Church singing before us, and with others sounding their Waits and Trumpets. The Fryer that lived in this Town, was called Fryer Geronymo de Guevara, little in stature, but great in state, pride and vanity, as hee shewed himself in what hee had provided for us both of fish and flesh. A brave professour or vower of Mendicancy and poverty he was, who in twelve yeers that hee had lived in that Towne, what by mumming of Masses for the dead and living, what by shearing and fleecing the poore Indians, what by trading and traffiquing with the Merchants that used that Rode, had got six thousand Duckats, which hee had sent to Spain to the Court of Madrid, to trade with them Simoniacally for the Bishoprick of Chiapa, which if he obtained not, (yet when I came out of that Country the report went that hee had obtained it) hee would and was well able with a second supply to obtaine a better. After two daies feasting with him, hee and the Prior of Comitlan both joyned their power and authority to see mee well manned with Indians, to the first Towne of the Cuchumatlanes. A mule was prepared to carry my bedding, (which wee commonly carried with us in chests of leather called Petaca's) another Indian to carry my Petaquilla wherein was my Chocolatte and all implements to make it; and three more Indians to ride before and behinde to guide me; but to all these nothing was to be paid, (lest a custome of paying should bee brought in, for so they doctrined mee as a novice in that Country) except it were to give them a cup of Chocolatte if I drank in the way, or when I came to my journeys end. Here I tooke my leave of my good French friend, (who yet continued friendship with mee by frequent letters to Guatemala) and of my low but high minded Guevara, who bad mee expect no friendly entertainment, untill I were well passed over the Cuchumatlanes and arrived at Sacapula, which was foure daies journey from thence. Yet hee told mee I might demand what service I list from the Indians, and call for what I had a minde to eat without paying any mony, so that I did write down my expences in the common Town Book.
Thus I went away from my friends somewhat heavy having no other company but unknowne Indians, leaving a pleasant and delightsome valley behind mee, and seeing nothing before mee but high and steepy hils and mountaines, and considering that in foure or five dayes I should see no more gallant Dominicans and of mine own profession. Now I wished I had the company of my Melendez and other friends, who were a comfort one to another upon the hills and rocks of Maquilapa. Yet at last I concluded, up English heart and courage, quondam hæc meminisse juvabit. Though the mountaines seemed high afar off, yet as I travelled on, I found the way lie between them very easie and passable, and met now and then Requas of mules, which were no little comfort unto mee to consider, if they being heavily laden could goe through those Mountaines, my mule that had in mee but a light burden would easily overcome any danger; it comforted mee also to consider that there were Townes (though but little ones) where I might rest every night. The further I went, the better and more open I found the Rode; Onely the raine and dirt troubled me, which I could not avoid, it being the end of September, or as there they reckon, the end of winter. The first Town I came to amongst those Mountaines was called St. Martin, a little place of some twenty houses; I went to the house that belonged to the Franciscan Fryers (who seldome in the yeer came to that poverty of house and house roome) where I lighted and caused the Indians to bee called who were appointed to give attendance to travellers and passengers. I found them very tractable and dutifull, bidding mee welcome, bringing mee hot water for my Chocolatte, which I drunke off heartily, and gave unto my Indians of Izquintenango, who refreshed themselves and their mules well for nothing, this being a custome among those Townes in the Rode to welcome one another whensoever they come with travellers. I might have had for my supper any thing that place would afford, but I made choice of a pullet, which I thought would bee cheapest for the poore Indians. I was glad I had brought with mee a good big Frasco, as they call it, or bottle of wine, for I began already to find the Cuchumatlanes cooler then the valley of Copanabastla. My bed was made in a little thatched Cobe, and Indian boyes appointed to sleep in the next room to me, and to be at hand if in the night I should want any thing. Thus having appointed what attendance I had need of in the morning to the next Town, discharging the Indians that had brought me from Izquintenango, I went unto my rest, which I tooke as quietly as if I had been in the company of my best friends. The next day being accompanied by two Indians, having sent my carriage by another, I tooke my journey to the next Towne, which is called Cuchumatlan grande, because it standeth on the highest part of those Mountaines, and in the way the Indiansshewed mee the head spring or fountaine of the great River of Chiapa of the Indians, which is the onely remarkable thing in that Rode. Cuchumatlan grande is a Towne a little bigger then St. Martin, and of Indians very curteous, who are used and beaten to daily travellers, and so make very much of them. Here I was entertained as the night before; and found the poore Indians willing to give mee whatsoever I demanded for my better and safer guiding and conducting the next day, and that night for my supper what I pleased to call for, without any pay, but onely writing down my name and expences with the day and moneth in their common booke of accounts. This are those poore wretches brought to by the Fryers and commanding Justices, though of themselves they have no more then a Milpa of Maiz as they terme it, or a little Indian Wheat Plantation, with as much Chile as will suffice them for the yeer, and what the Merchants and Travellers give them voluntarily, which is little enough. From this Town I would not follow the Rode to the next, which was a long journy of seven or eight leagues without baiting by the way; and also because I had beene informed at Chiapa and at Copanabastla of a strange picture of our Lady, which was amongst these Mountaines in a little Towne of Indians called Chiantla, which in this dayes journy being not above a league out of my way, I was resolved to see. The wayes were bad, lying out of the Rode, yet by noon I got to Chiantla, which is a Town belonging unto Mercenarian Fryers, who doubtlesse would not be able to subsist in so poore a place, had they not invented that loadstone of their picture of Mary, and cried it up for miraculous, to draw people farre and neere, and all travellers from the Rode to pray unto it, and to leave their gifts and almes unto them for their prayers and Masses. Such an income of treasure and riches hath beene from deluded and ignorant soules to this beggerly Towne, that the Fryers have had wherewith to build a Cloister able to maintaine foure or five of them. The Church is richly furnished, but especially the high Altar where the picture standeth in a Tabernacle with half a dozen curtaines of Silk, Sattin, cloth of gold, with borders of golden lace before it, wearing a rich Crowne of gold, thickly beset with Diamonds and other pretious stones. There hang before it at least a dozen rich lampes of silver; and in the vestry of the Church are many gownes, Candlestickes of silver, Censers to burn Frankincense before it, besides rich Copes, Vestments, Ornaments for the Altar, and hangings for all the Church.
To conclude, here is a treasure hid in the Mountaines; Oh that it could bee found out to doe the Lord service. I was welcomed to this place by those Fryers, who were strangers unto mee; my head was filled that day by them with relations of strange and many miracles or lies, which they told mee of that picture; but the heavinesse of my head did mee good in something, for it made mee more drowsie at night and apter to take good rest. The next day I got into the Rode againe, and went to the last Town of these Cuchumatlanes called Chautlan, where I stayed all that day and night, and sent before a letter to the Prior of Sacapula of my going thither the next day. In Chautlan I was very kindly used by the Indians, and liked the Towne the better for the excellent grapes which there I found, not planted like vineyards, but growing up in harbours, which shew that if that land were planted, it would certainly yeeld as good grapes for wine, as any are in Spain. They are carried from that place to Guatemala, which stands from it neer forty leagues, and are sold about the streets for rarities and great dainties; and well may they, for from Mexico to Guatemala there are none like them. The next morning I made haste to be gone, that I might come sooner to Sacapula, where I was to finde those of mine owne profession, with whom I knew I might stay and rest a whole weeke if I pleased. I had not rid above three leagues, when I began to discover at a low and deep bottome, a pleasant and goodly valley, laced with a River, whose waters receiving the glorious brightnesse of Phoebus beames reverberated up to the top of the Mountaine, a delightsome prospect to the beholders; the more I hasted to that seeming Paradise, the more did the twinkling and wanton streame invite mee downe the hill; which I had no sooner descended, but I found in an harbour by the water side the Prior of Sacapula himselfe with a good traine of Indians waiting for mee with a cup of Chocolatte. At the first light I was a little daunted to behold the Prior, who looked most fearfully with a bladder from his throat swelled almost round his necke, which hung over his shoulders and brest, and stayed up his chin, and lifted up his head so, that hee could scarce looke any whither but up to heaven. In our discourse he told mee that disease had beene upon him at least ten yeers, and that the water of that River had caused it in him, and in many others of that Town. This made mee now as much out of love with the River, as above the hill I had liked the goodly sight of it, and therefore resolved not to stay so long in that place as I had thought, lest the waters should marke me for all my life, as they had done this Prior; whose name was Fryer John De la Cruz, a Biscaine borne, and (like some of that Nation) a little troubled with the simples, but a good hearted man, humble, and well beloved over all the Country both by Spaniards and Indians. When I came to the Towne I discovered many men and women with bladders in their throats like the poore Prior, which made mee almost unwilling to drink there any Chocolatte made with that water, or eat any thing dressed with it; untill the Prior did much incourage mee and told mee that it did not hurt all but onely some, and those who did drink it cold; wherewith I resolved to stay there foure or five daies, because of the old Priors importunity, who would faine have had mee continue to live with him, promising to teach mee the Indian language in a very short time. But higher matters calling mee to Guatemala, I excused my selfe, and continued there five dayes with much recreation. The Town though it be not in the generall very rich, yet there are some Indian Merchants who trade about the country and especially to Suchutepeques where is the chief store of Cacao, and thereby some of this Towne of Sacapula, have inriched themselves; the rest of the people trade in pots and pans, which they make of an earth there fit for that purpose. But the principall Merchandize of this place is salt, which they gather in the morning from the ground that lyeth neere the River. The aire is hot, by reason the Town standeth low, and compassed with high hills on every side. Besides many good fruits which are here, there are Dates as good as those that come from Barbary, and many trees of them in the Garden belonging to the Cloister. After I had here wearied out the wearinesse, which I brought in my bones from the Cuchumatlanes, I departed taking my way to Guatemala, and from Sacapula I went to a Town called St. Andres, or St. Andrews, which standeth six or seven leagues from Sacapula, a great Town, but nothing remarkable in it, save onely Cotton wooll and Turkies, and about it some rich Estancia's or Farmes of Cattell, which are commodiously seated here, it being a plain Champaigne Country. Yet at further end of this plain there is a Mountaine which discourageth with the sight all such as travell to Guatemala; from St. Andres I prepared my selfe for the next daies journey, which was of nine long leagues, to a very great Town called by two names, by some Sacualpa, by others Sta. Maria Zojabah, to the which I could not goe without passing over that Mountaine. I sent word of going to Zojabah the day before (as is the custome there) that mules and horses might meet mee upon the Mountaine; and the night before I went to a Rancho (which is a lodge built for travellers to rest when the journey is long) which stood within a league of the Mountaine by a River, where with the waters murmur, and refreshing gales I tooke good rest. In the morning having refreshed my selfe, and my Indians with Chocolatte I set out to incounter with that proud Mountaine; and when I came unto it I found it not so hard to overcome, as I had conceited, the way lying with windings and turnings; But the higher I mounted the more my eyes were troubled with looking to the River below, whose rockes were enough to astonish and make a stout heart tremble. About the middle of the Mountaine the Indians of Zojabah met with a mule for mee, and another for my carriage in a narrow passage where the way went wheeling. Here I lighted, whilst the Indians helped one another to unload and load the mule that came of refresh. Out of the narrow way the side of the Mountaine was steepy, and a fearefull precipice of two or three miles to the bottome, almost bare of trees, here and there one onely growing. My heart was true unto mee, wishing mee to walke up a foot untill I came unto some broader passage; but the Indians perceiving my feare told me there was no danger, assuring mee further that the Mule they had brought was sure, and had been well used to that mountaine. With their perswasions I got up, but no sooner was I mounted when the Mule began to play her prankes and to kick, and to leap out of the way, casting me down and herselfe, both rouling and tumbling a pace to the rockes and death, had not a shrub prevented me, and a tree stopped the Mules blind fury. The Indians cried out, milagro, milagro, miracle, miracle, Santo, Santo, a Saint, a Saint, to me so loud as if they would have had their cry reach to Rome to helpe forward my canonization; for many such miracles have some been noised at Rome, and with further contribution of mony have been enrolled in the booke and Catalogue of Saints. Whilst the Indians helped me up and brought the Mule againe into the way, they did nothing but flatter me with this terme Saint; which they needed not have done, if as they considered my dangerous fall and stopping at a shrub (which was by chance, and not by miracle) they had further considered my passion and hasty wrath (not befitting a Saint) wherewith I threatned to bast their ribs for deceiving mee with a yong Mule not well accustomed to the saddle. But all my hasty words and anger could not discredit me with them, nor lessen their conceipt of my holinesse and sanctity, who hold the anger and wrath of a Preist to be the breath of Gods nostrils, and with this their foolish conceipt of mee, they kneeled before me kissing my hands. The businesse being further examined, they confessed that they had been mistaken in the Mules, having sadled for me that which should have carried my Petaca's, or leatherne chests, which was a young Mule accustomed onely to carriages, and not to the saddle, and upon that which should have been sadled they put my carriage. Whilst they unloaded and loaded again and sadled the right Mule, I walked up the hill about a mile, and when they overtooke me I got up and rid till I met with my refreshing harbour and Chocolatte, and many Indians that came to receive me, among whom it was presently noised that I was a Saint and had wrought a miracle in the way; with this the rest of the Indians kneeled to me and kissed my hands, and in the way that we went to the Towne, all their talk was of my sanctity. I was much vexed at their simplicity, but the more they saw mee unwilling to accept of that honour, the more they pressed it upon me. When I came to the Town I told the Frier what had happened, and what the foolish Indians had conceited; at which he laughed, and told me that he would warrant me if I staied long in the Towne, all the men and women would come to kisse my hands and to offer their gifts unto me. He knew well their qualities, or else had taught them this superstition with many others; for no sooner had we dined, but many were gathered to the Church to see the Saint that was come to their Towne, and that had wrought a miracle in the mountaine as he came. With this I began to be more troubled then before at the folly of the simple people, and desired the Fryer to checke and rebuke them, who by no means would, but rather laughed at it, saying, that in policy we ought to accept of any honour from the Indians, for as long as we had credit and an opinion of Saints among them, so long we should prevaile to do any thing with them, yea even to command them and their fortunes at our pleasure. With this I went downe with the Frier to the Church, and sate downe with him in a chaire in the Quire, representing the person of such a Saint as they imagined me to be, though in reality and truth but a wretched sinner.
No sooner had we taken up our places, when the Indians, men, women, and children came up by three and four, or whole families to the Quire, first kneeling down for my blessing, and then kissing my hands, they began to speake to me in their Indian complements to this purpose, that their Town was happy and doubtlesse blessed from heaven by my coming into it, and that they hoped their soules should be much the better if they might partake of my praiers to God for them. And for this purpose some offered unto me money, some hony, some egs, some little mantles, some Plantins, and other fruits, some fowles, and some Turkeys. The Frier that sate by me I perceived was overjoyed with this, for he knew I was to be gone, and would leave unto him all those offerings. I desired him to make answer unto the Indians in my behalfe, excusing me as not well versed in their language (yet the fooles if they thought and judged me to be a Saint, might have expected from me also the gift of tongues) which he did telling them that I had been but a while in that Country, and though I understood part of their language, yet could not speake nor pronounce it perfectly, and therefore from me he did give them hearty thankes for the great love they had shewed unto an Ambassadour of God, witnessing it with so many sorts of offerings, which assuredly should remind him and mee of our offerings for them, in our praiers and hearty recommendations of them and their children unto God. Thus was that ceremony ended, the Indians dismissed, and the Frier and I went up to a chamber, where he began to tell his egs and fowles and to dispose of some of them for our supper; he told me he would take them, but at my departure would give me somewhat for them; he bad me keep what money they had given me, and told me I was welcome unto him, and no burdensome guesse, but very profitable, who had brought with me store of provision for my selfe and for him many daies after. The money I received came to fourty Rials, besides twenty which he gave me for the other offerings, which might be worth fourty more; all this I got for having a fall from a Mule, and for not breaking my necke. I would faine have departed the next morning, but John Vidall (so was the Frier named) would not permit me, for that the next journey was of at least ten leagues, and therefore he would have me rest my selfe the next day.
This Towne of Zojabah, or Sacualpa is the biggest and fairest of all the Towns that belong unto the Priory of Sacapula; the Indians are rich, and make of their Cotton-wool many mantles, they have plenty of hony, and great flocks of goats and kids; but here, nor in all the Townes behind there is no wheat, save only Indian Maiz. The next day some small offerings fell unto mee, but nothing like the day before; and so I told the Frier, that now the peoples devotion was decaied, I would bee gone in the morning before day. That night the chiefe Indians of the Towne came to offer their service and attendance upon me to a Rancho or lodge that standeth in the middle way; but I would not accept of the great ones, but desired that I might have three onely of the meaner sort to guide mee till I met with company from the Towne whither I was going, and whither I had sent warning of my comming. The time appointed was three of the clock in the morning; at which houre after a little sleep I was called, and having drunke my Chocolatte, and eat a maple bread with a little conserve, I prepared my selfe for my journey, and found the Indians ready waiting for me in the yard, with pieces of pine-wood, which burn like torches, and with which they use to travell in the night, and to shew the way to him whom they guide. A little from the Towne wee had some craggy wayes, which indeed had need of lights, but afterwards we came into a plaine champaigne Countrey, which continued till within a league of the middle way lodge; to the which we were to descend a steep hill. When we came thither (which was about seven in the morning) we found our fresh supply waiting for us, who had set out from their Towne at midnight to meet us (note the Indians subjection to their Preists command) and had made us a fire, and warmed water for our Chocolatte. Which whilst I was drinking, the Indians of Zojabah, who had guided me thither, gave notice to those that came to receive from St. Martin (so was the Towne called whither I was that day minded) of my miracle and sanctity, wishing them to reverence and respect me in the way. But not for this their foolish report did I make the Indians of Zojabah drinke every one a cup of Chocolatte, and so dismissed them; and took forwards my journey to St. Martin. Most of the way was hilly and craggy till we came within two miles of the Towne; to the which we arrived by noone. This Towne is cold, standing high, yet pleasant for the prospect almost to Guatemala; here, and in most of the Towns about it is most excellent wheat. The hony of this Towne is the best in the Countrey; but above all it furnisheth Guatemala with Quailes, Partridges, and Rabbits. It is the first Towne wee enter into belonging to the City and command of Guatemala; which did not a little comfort me, that now I wanted but one good journey to make an end of my long, tedious and wearisome travelling. The Frier of this Towne named Thomas de la Cruz belonged unto the Dominican Cloister of Guatemala; he was a Criolian, but yet he entertained me very lovingly. I staied with him but that night. And in the morning (though I might have gone to dinner to Guatemala) I would needs goe by the way to one of the biggest Townes in that Countrey, called Chimaltenango, standing in an open valley three leagues from the City, consisting of a thousand house-keepers, and rich Indians who trade much about the Countrey. In this Towne in my time there was one Indian, who alone had bestowed upon the Church five thousand duckates. The Church yeelds to none in the City of Guatemala, and in musick it exceeds most about the Country. The chief feast of Chimaltenango is upon the 26. day of July, (which they call St. Annes day) and then is the richest faire that ever my eyes beheld in those parts of all sorts of Merchants and Merchandize; It is further set forth with Bull-baiting, Horse-racing, Stage-playes, Maskes, dances, Musick, and all this gallantly performed by the Indians of the Town. The Fryer of this Town was a Dominican, belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of Guatemala, named Alonso Hidalgo, a foure eyed old man, for hee alwaies wore spectacles. Hee was a Spaniard borne, but having beene brought up in that Country from his youth, and having taken his habit and vowes in Guatemala amongst the Criolians, hee degenerated from his birth and Country-men, hating all such as came from Spain. Hee was a deadly enemy to the Provinciall (ayming indeed himselfe to bee Provinciall with the favour of the Criolians) and so I perceived hee would have picked a quarrell with mee, whilst I was with him; hee told mee I was welcome, though hee had little reason to bid any welcome that had come from Spain, who hee thought came but to supplant those that had been born and brought up there in their own Country, and that for ought hee knew, I learning the language of those Indians might one day dispossesse him of that Towne, wherein hee had continued above ten yeers; hee envied much against the Provinciall and Fryer John Baptist the Prior of Guatemala, whom hee knew to bee my friend; But to all this I answered not a word, respecting his grave and old age, and Crystall spectacles. At last he told mee that hee had heard say, that the Indians of Zojabah had cried mee up for a Saint, which hee could not beleeve of any that came from Spain, much lesse of mee that came from England a countrey of hereticks; but hee feared rather that I might come as a spie, to view the riches of that their Country, and betray them hereafter to England; and that in Guatemala there were many rich pieces, especially a picture of our Lady, and a lampe in the Cloister of the Dominicans, which he doubted not but I would bee carefull to pry into. But all this I put up with a jest, saying, that I would bee sure to take notice first of the riches of his chamber in pictures, hangings, and rich Cabinets, and that if the English came thither in my time, I would surely conduct them to it; and if hee himselfe would but cause a set of teeth of silver to bee set in his gums and jawes in stead of those leaden ones, (for hee was so old that hee had lost all his teeth, and had got some of lead in their stead) then surely I would also conduct the English to him as to a rich prize for his teeth, and that I would warrant him hee should bee well used for his outward and inward riches; and that this my counsell might bee profitable and of consequence to him, I told him; for if the English should come, certainly they would try of what metall his teeth were made, thinking that they might bee of some rare and exquisite substance found onely in that Country, and so might cause him to drink such hot and scalding broth, (to try whether they were lead) as might melt them in his mouth, and make the melted lead runne downe his throat, which if they were of silver, they would not doe. Hee perceived I jeared him, and so hee let mee alone; I was glad I had put him out of his former byas of rayling; so dinner being ended, I told him I would not stay supper, but goe to Guatemala to a light supper in the Cloister, for that hee had given mee such a dinner, as I feared I should not have digested it in few daies. I desired him to let me have Indians to guide me to Guatemala, which he willingly performed, peradventure fearing that if I stayed supper with him, I should melt the teeth in his mouth with some scalding cup of my Chocolatte brought from Chiapa, or that in the night I should rifle or plunder his chamber of his rich Idols and Ebony Cabinets. The Indians being come, I made hast to be gone from that four eyed beast, being now desirous of a constant rest in Guatemala. Within a league from this Town of Chimaltenango, the Rode way leaving that open, wide, and spatious valley, contracts and gathereth in it selfe between hils and mountaines standing on each side, and so continueth to the City. From this Valley unto Guatemala, neither is there any ascent or descent but a plaine, broad and sandy way. The eye hath much to view, though compassed with Mountaines, in these two last leagues; for yet it may behold a Town of Indians which taketh up most of the way, and is counted as big as Chimaltenango, if not bigger, the houses lying scattered with a distance one from another, mingled with many fair buildings of Spaniards, who resort much thither from the City for their recreation. This Town is called Xocotenango, of a fruit named Xocotte, which is most plentifull there, and all about the Country; it is fresh and cooling, of a yellow colour when ripe, and of two sorts, some sweet, and others sowre, of the stones whereof the Indians make a fire; they lie so thick in the way, dropping from the trees for want of gathering and spending them all, that the Spaniards have begun to practise the buying of Hogs on purpose to let them runne about that high way, finding that they fat as speedily and as well with those plummes, as our Hogs doe in England with Akorns. All this way are also many faire gardens, which supply the Markets of Guatemala with herbs, roots, fruits, and flowers all the yeer. There are further in this Rode three water mills for the corn of the City, whereof the chief and the richest belongs to the Dominican Fryers of Guatemala, who keep there a Fryer constantly with three or foure Blackmores to doe and oversee the worke; What will not those Fryers doe to satisfie their covetous mindes? Even dusty Millars they will become to get wealth. The Frontispice of the Church of this Town is judged one of the best pieces of worke thereabouts; the high Altar within is also rich and stately, being all daubed with gold. I made no stay in this place, because I knew I should have many occasions after my setling in the City to come unto it. And thus keeping between the hils I continued on my journey till I came to Guatemala, whose Dominions, riches and greatnesse the following chapter shall largely shew.