[CHAP. VIII.]
Of our Landing at Vera Crux, otherwise St. John de Ulhua, and of our entertainment there.
Upon the 12 day of September, we happily arrived in America in that famous Towne, called St. John de Ulhua, otherwise Vera Crux; famous for that it was the first beginning of the famous conquest of that valiant and ever renowned Conqueror Hernando Cortez. Here first was that noble and generous resolution, that never heard of policy, to sinke the ships, which had brought the first Spaniards to that Continent, greater then any of the other three parts of the world, to the intent that they might thinke of nothing but such a conquest as after followed, being destitute of the helpe of their ships, and without hopes evermore to returne to Cuba, Yucatan, or any of those parts from whence they had come. Here it was, that the first five hundred Spaniards strengthned themselves against millions of enemies, and against the biggest fourth part of all the world. Here were the first Magistrates, Judges, Aldermen, Officers of Justice named. The proper name of the Towne is S. John de Ulhua, otherwise called Vera Crux, from the old Harbour and Haven of Vera Crux, six leagues from this, and so called for that upon good Friday it was first discovered. But the old Vera Crux proving too dangerous an Harbour for ships, by reason of the violence of the Northern winds; it was utterly forsaken by the Spaniards, who removed to St. John de Ulhua, where their ships found the first safe road by reason of a Rocke, which is a strong defence against the winds. And because the memory of the worke of that good Friday should never be forgotten; to S. John de Ulhua they have added the name also of Vera Crux, taken from that first Haven which was discovered upon good Friday, Anno 1519.
As soone as we came to shore, wee found very solemne preparations for entertainment, all the Towne being resorted to the Sea side, all the Preists and Canons of the Cathedrall Church, all the religious Orders of the severall Convents (which are there Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, and Jesuites) being in a readinesse with their Crosses borne before them, to guide the new Viceroy of Mexico, in procession to the chiefe Cathedrall Church. The Fryers and Jesuites were quicker in going to land then the great Don the Marquesse de Serralvo and his Lady. Some of them kissed the ground as holy in their opinion, for the Conversion of those Indians to Christianity, who before had worshipped Idols, and sacrificed to Devils; others kneeled upon their knees making short prayers, some to the Virgin Mary, others to such Saints as they best affected; and so betooke themselves to the places and stations of those of their profession. In the mean time all the Cannon playing both from ships and Castle, landed the Viceroy and his Lady and all his Traine, acccompanyed with Don Martin de Carrillo the Visiter generall for the strife between the Count of Gelves the last Viceroy, & the Archbishop of Mexico. The great Don and his Lady being placed under a Canope of state, began the Te Deum to be sung with much variety of musicall instruments, all marching in procession to the Cathedrall, where with many lights of burning lampes, torches, & Wax candles, was to the view of all set upon the high Altar their God of bread; to whom all knees were bowed; a prayer of thanks-giving sung, holy water by a Preist sprinkled upon all the people, and lastly a Masse with three Preists solemnly celebrated. This being ended the Viceroy was attended on by the Chief High Justice, named Alcalde Major by the Officers of the Town, some Judges sent from Mexico to that purpose, and all the Souldiers of the Ships and Town unto his lodging; The Fryers likewise in Procession with their Crosse before them were conducted to their severall Cloisters. Fryer Calvo presented his Dominicans to the Prior of the Cloister of St. Dominicke, who entertained us very lovingly with some sweet Meates, and everyone with a Cup of the Indian drink called Chocolatte, whereof I shall speake hereafter. This refreshment being ended, wee proceeded to a better, which was a most stately Dinner both of Fish and Flesh; no Fowles were spared, many Capons, Turky Cocks, and Hens were prodigally lavished, to shew us the abundance and plenty of Provision of that Country. The Prior of this Cloister was no stayed, ancient, grey-headed man, such as usually are made Superiours to govern young and wanton Fryers; but hee was a Gallant and Amorous young Sparke, who (as wee were there informed) had obtained from his Superiour the Provinciall the Government of that Convent with a Bribe of a thousand Duckats. After dinner hee had some of us to his Chamber, where wee observed his lightnesse and little savour of Religion or Mortification in him; We thought to have found in his Chamber some stately Library, which might tel us of Learning and love of Study; but we found not above a dozen old Bookes, standing in a corner covered with dust and Cobwebs, as if they were ashamed that the Treasure that lay hid in them, should be so much forgotten, and undervalued, and the Guitarra (the Spanish Lute) preferred and set above them. His Chamber was richly dressed and hung with many pictures, and with hangings, some made with Cotten Wooll, others with various coloured feathers of Mechoacan, his Tables covered with Carpets of Silk; his Cubboards adorned with severall sorts of China Cups and Dishes, stored within with severall dainties of sweet Meates and Conserves.
This sight seemed to the zealous Fryers of our Mission most vaine, and unbeseeming a poore and mendicant Fryer; to the others, whose end in comming from Spain to those parts was Liberty, and loosnesse, and covetousnesse of riches, this sight was pleasing and gave them great incouragement to enter further into that Country, where soone a Mendicant Lazarus might become a proud and wealthy Dives. The discourse of the young and light headed Prior was nothing but vaine boasting of himself, of his birth, his parts, his favour with the chiefe Superior or Provinciall, the love which the best Ladies, the richest Merchants Wives of the Towne bare unto him, of his cleere and excellent voice, and great dexterity in Musick, whereof he presently gave us a taste, tuning his Guitarra and singing to us some verses (as hee said, of his owne composing) some lovely Amaryllis, adding scandall to scandall, loosenesse to liberty, which it grieved some of us to see in a Superiour who should have taught with words, and in his life and Conversation examples of Repentance and Mortification. No sooner were our senses of hearing delighted well with Musick, our Sight with the objects of Cotten-Wool, Silke and Feather workes, but presently our Prior caused to be brought forth of all his store of dainties, such variety as might likewise relish well and delight our sense of tasting. Thus as wee were truely transported from Europe to America, so the World seemed truely to bee altered, our senses changed from what they were the night & day before when we heard the hideous noise of the Mariners hoising up Sailes, when wee saw the deep and monsters of it, when we tasted the stinking water, when we smelt the Tarre and Pitch; but here wee heard a quivering and trembling voice and instrument well tuned, wee beheld wealth and riches, wee tasted what was sweet, and in the Sweet-meates smelt the Muske and Civit, wherewith that Epicurean Prior had seasoned his Conserves. Here wee broke up our discourse and pastimes, desirous to walke abroad and take a view of the Towne, having no more time then that, and the next day to stay in it. Wee compassed it round about that afternoone; and found the situation of it to bee sandy, except on the South-West side, where it is Moorish ground, and full of standing Bogs, which with the great heates that are there, cause it to bee a very unhealthy place; The number of Inhabitants may bee three thousand, and amongst them some very rich Merchants, some worth two hundred, some three hundred, and some foure hundred thousand Duckats. Of the buildings little we observed, for they are all, both Houses, Churches, and Cloisters built with Boards and Timber, the Walls of the richest mans house being made but of boards, which with the impetuous Winds from the North hath bin cause that many times the town hath bin for the most part of it burnt down to the ground. The great Trading from Mexico, & by Mexico from the East-India's, from Spain, from Cuba, Sto. Domingo, Jucatan, Portabello, and by Portabello from Peru, from Cartagena and all the Islands lying upon the North Sea, and by the River Alvarado going up to Zapotecas, St. Ildefonso, and towards Guaxaca, and by the River Grijalva, running up to Tabasco, Los Zoques and Chiapa de Indios, maketh this little Town very rich, and to abound with all the Commodities of the Continent Land, and of all the East and West-India's Treasures. The unhealthinesse of the place is the reason of the paucity of Inhabitants, and the paucity of them, together with the rich Trading and commerce, the reasons that the Merchants therein are extraordinary rich; who yet might have been farre richer, had not the Town been so often fired, and they in the fire had great losses. All the strength of this Towne is first the hard and dangerous entrance into the Haven; and secondly, a rock which lyeth before the Town lesse then a Musket shot off; upon which is built a Castle, and in the Castle a slight Garrison of Souldiers. In the Town there is neither Fort, nor Castle, nor scarce any people of warlike mindes. The Rocke and Castle are as a Wall, defence, and inclosure to the Haven, which otherwise lyeth wide open to the Ocean, and to the Northern Winds. No Ship dares cast anchor within the Haven, but onely under the Rock and Castle, and yet not sure enough so with Anchors, except with Cables also they be bound and fastened to Rings of Iron for that purpose to the side of the Rock; from whence sometimes it hath happened that Ships floating with the Stream too much on one side the Rocke have been driven off and cast upon the other Rockes or out to the Ocean, the Cables of their Anchors, and those wherewith they have beene fastned to the Castle being broken with the force of the Winds. This happened to one of our Ships the first night after we landed; who were happy that we were not then at Sea; for there arose such a storme and Tempest from the North, that it quite broke the Cables of one Ship and drove it out to the maine Sea, and wee thought it would have blowne and droven us out of our beds after it, for the slight boarded houses did so totter & shake, that we expected every houre when they would fal upon our heads. We had that first night enough of St. John de Ulhua, and little rest, though feasted as well at Supper as at Dinner by our vaine boasting Prior, who before wee went to bed, had caused all our feet to bee washed, that now in easier beds then for above two moneths together the strait and narrow Cabins of the Ship had allowed us, our sleep might be more quiet, and more nourishing to our bodies; but the whistling Winds and tottering Chambers, which made our Beds uneasie Cradles to us, caused us to flie from our rest at midnight, and with our bare (though washed) feet to seeke the dirty Yard for safer shelter. In the morning the Fryers of the Cloister who were acquainted with those winds and storms, laughed at our fearefulnesse, assuring us, that they never slept better then when their Beds were rocked with such like blasts. But that nights affrightment made us weary already of our good and kind entertainment; wee desired to remove from the Sea side; which our Superiour Calvo yeelded to, not for our feare sake so much, as for his feare, lest with eating too much of the fruits of that Countrey, and drinking after them too greedily of the water (which causeth dangerous Fluxes, and hasteneth death to those that newly come from Spain to those parts) wee should fall sick, and die there, as hundreds did after our departure for want of temperance in the use of those fruits, which before they had never seen, or eaten. Thirty Mules were ready for us, which had bin brought a purpose from Mexico, and had waited for us in St. John de Ulhua six days before ever the Fleet arrived. Calvo that day busied himselfe a Ship board in sending to shore our Chests, and such Provision as had been left of Wines, and Bisket, Gammons of Bacon, and salted Beefe, whereof there was some store, besides a dozen Hens and three Sheep, which was much wondred at, that so much should be left after so long a voiage. In the mean time we visited our friends and tooke our leaves of them in the forenoone; and after Dinner seats were prepared for us in the Cathedrall Church to sit and see a Comedy acted, which had beene on purpose studied and prepared by the Town for the entertainment of the new Viceroy of Mexico. Thus two daies onely we abode in St. John de Ulhua, and so departed.
[CHAP. IX.]
Of our journey from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico; and of the most remarkeable Townes and Villages in the way.
Upon the 14 day of September we left the Town and Port of S. John de Ulhua, entring into the rode to Mexico, which we found the first three or four leagues to bee very sandy, as wide and open as is our rode from London to S. Albans. The first Indians we met with, was at the old Vera Crux, a Towne seated by the sea side, which the Spaniards that first conquered that countrey thought to have made their chief Harbour: but afterwards by reason of the small shelter they found in it for their ships against the North winds, they left it, and removed to S. John de Ulhua. Here we began to discover the power of the Preists and Fryers over the poore Indians, and their subjection and obedience unto them. The Prior of S. John de Ulhua had writ a letter unto them the day before of our passing that way, charging them to meet us in the way, and to welcome us into those parts; which was by the poor Indians gallantly performed; for two miles before we came to the Towne, there met us on Horse-back some twenty of the chiefe of the Towne, presenting unto every one of us a nosegay of flowers; who rid before us a bow shot, till we met with more company on foot, to wit, the Trumpeters, the Waits; (who sounded pleasantly all the way before us) the Officers of the Church, such as here we call Church-wardens, though more in number, according to the many sodalities or confraternities of Saints whom they serve, these likewise presented to each of us a nosegay; next met us the singing men and boyes, all the Quiristers, who softly and leisurely walked before us singing, Te Deum laudamus, till we came to the midst of the Towne, where were two great Elme trees, the chiefe Market place; there was set up one long arbour with green bowes, and a table ready furnished with boxes of conserves, and other sweet meates, and diet-bread, to prepare our stomacks for a cup of Chocolatte, which while it was seasoning with the hot water and Sugar, the chiefe Indians and Officers of the Towne made a speech unto us, having first kneeled downe and kissed our hands one by one; they welcomed us into their Countrey, calling us the Apostles of Jesus Christ, thanked us for that we had left our own Countrey, our friends, our fathers and mothers for to save their soules; they told us they honoured us as Gods upon earth; and many such complements they used till our Chocolatte was brought. We refreshed ourselves for the space of one hour, and gave hearty thanks to the Indians for their kind respects unto us, assuring them that nothing was more deare unto us in this world then their souls, which that we might save, wee regarded not sea, nor land dangers, nor the unhumane cruelties of barbarous and savage Indians, (who as yet had no knowledge of the true God) no nor our owne lives.