A uniform mode of spelling, however, has so many advantages, that I have been induced to give it a preference; but it will be seen that in a few instances, where the popular mode of spelling has become familiar, and as it were a portion of the English language, as in the words Punjab, Jumna, Sutlej, Kussowlee, and a few others, I have not had courage to carry out the rule.
For the plates which accompany the work I have to thank Mr. Winterbottom, who very kindly permitted me to select from a series of sketches those which I thought most suitable. This was not an easy task; but in the two views of the neighbourhood of Iskardo I found so faithful a representation of the extremely rugged scenery of the Tibetan mountains, contrasted with the level plain of Iskardo, and the lacustrine strata of the neighbourhood, that no more desirable illustrations for a journey in Tibet could be conceived. The little vignette, too, though it does not represent any part of the country through which I travelled, is precisely similar to many ravines in Rondu, and serves to show that the Gilgit valley is quite the same in general appearance with that district. I was more particularly desirous of introducing this sketch, from the very faithful representation it contains of the alluvial platforms which skirt the streams in every part of Tibet.
The map is founded principally upon Mr. Arrowsmith's large map, and his name is its best guarantee. The districts round the Pangong lake are taken from a sketch given to me by Captain H. Strachey, and the whole of the eastern part has been revised by him. A great part of the course of the Shayuk has been laid in by Mr. Arrowsmith from my own rough survey, while the little-known district between Jamu and Zanskar, which I was not competent to survey, has been rendered as nearly as possible from the notes which I had made of the length and direction of my marches.
The sketch of the district between Nubra and the Karakoram pass, which will, I hope, be found useful as an illustration of that part of my journey, has been prepared for me by Dr. Hooker, from a rough draft of my survey, assisted by verbal explanations.
In conclusion, I have to add, that for the correction of the press, during which process many asperities by which the manuscript was disfigured have disappeared, I have to thank my kind friends, Dr. and Mrs. Hooker.
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | ||
| Page | ||
| Appointment to a Mission about to proceed to Tibet—Leave Firozpur forSimla—Approach to the Mountains—Appearance of Himalaya fromPlains of India—Kalka—Ascent to Kussowlee—Vegetation of PlainwardFace—Origin of Kussowlee Ridge—Climate and Vegetation ofKussowlee—Aspect of inner ranges—Road from Kussowlee to Simla—Sabathu—CrossGambar River—Haripur—Tropical Vegetation of Basinof Gambar—Steep Ascent to Simla—its extent and situation—its Vegetation—Oak-forest—Pines—Floraof Spring Months—of Rainy Season—Viewfrom Peak of Jako—Structure of Mountain Ranges | [1] | |
| CHAPTER II. | ||
| Leave Simla—Mahasu Ridge—Pine Forest—Summit of Mahasu—Vegetationof Northern Slope—Fagu—Theog—Mattiana—Cultivated Valley—Nagkanda—Ascentof Hattu—Forest of Pine and Oak—Vegetation ofSummit—View from top of Mountain—Plainward slopes bare of forest,while those facing the interior are well wooded—Cultivation at 9500 feet—Descentfrom Nagkanda towards Sutlej—Damp shady Ravine denselywooded—Kotgarh—Cultivation—Rapid Descent—Change of Climate—TropicalVegetation—Rampur—Swing-bridge—Diurnal fluctuations inlevel of River—Gaora—Serahan—Tranda—Western boundary of Kunawar | [29] | |
| CHAPTER III. | ||
| Sildang river—Fine grove of Deodars—Nachar—Fruit-trees—Vine seen forfirst time—Boundaries of Kulu and Kunawar—Cross Sutlej at Wangtubridge—Vegetation of bare rocky valley—Waterfall—Chegaon—PinusGerardiana—Miru—Absence of rain—Alteration of vegetation—QuercusIlex—Rogi—Willow and Poplar—Chini—Cultivated Plain—Kashbir—Pangi—Campat upper level of trees—Junipers—Werang Pass—AlpineVegetation—Birch and Rhododendron—Granite Boulders—Lipa—AlluvialDeposits—Encamp at 12,500 feet—Runang Pass—Vegetation veryscanty—Stunted Forest—Sungnam | [63] | |
| CHAPTER IV. | ||
| Hangarang ridge separates Kunawar from Piti—Ascent to Hangarang Pass—Alluvialdeposit—Steep ascent—View of valley—Limestone rocks—Caraganaversicolor, or Dama—Camp at 14,000 feet—Top of pass—Viewfrom pass—Vegetation of summit—Descent to Hango—Cultivationround the village—Luxuriant wild plants—Road to Lio—Crambe—Ravineof Piti river—Lio—Bridge over Piti river—Ascent to Nako—Nako—Cultivationof the village—Buddhist temple—Transported blocks—Chango—Changar—Stoppedby villagers on Chinese frontier—Naturalbridge—Kyuri—Alluvium—Clay deposit with shells—Lari—Ramificationsof mountain ranges—Alluvial platforms—Pok—Dankar—Lara—Rangrig—Upperpart of Piti—Climate—Saline exudations | [96] | |
| CHAPTER V. | ||
| Leave valley of Piti river—Kibar—Cultivation above 14,000 feet—Vegetationof mountains—Rocky gorge—Encampment at 17,000 feet—ParangPass—Snow-bed and glacier—First plants at 16,500 feet—Parang valley—Gorgeleading to Chumoreri Lake—Kiang, or wild horse—Chumurti—Remarkablegrassy plain—Lanak Pass—Granite boulders—Plantsabove 18,000 feet—Undulating hilly country—Hanle plain—Vegetation—Monasteryof Hanle | [130] | |
| CHAPTER VI. | ||
| Descend Hanle river—Unsettled weather—Encamp on banks of Indus—Uppercourse of Indus—Pugha ravine—Forest of Myricaria trees—Boraxplain—Hot springs—Borax lakes of Eastern Tibet—Sulphurmine—Pulokanka Pass—Salt lake—Lacustrine clays with shells—Ancientwater-mark—Rupchu—Tunglung Pass—Fall of snow—Alluvial conglomerate—Giah—Narrowravine—Miru—Upshi—Indus valley—Marsilang—Richlycultivated plain of Chashut—Bridge over Indus—Le—Buddhistedifices | [155] | |
| CHAPTER VII. | ||
| Departure from Le—Sabu valley—Pass between Le and Nubra—Snow—Encampat 15,500 feet—Digar—Valley of Shayuk—Alluvium—PopulusEuphratica—Tsatti—Nubra river—District of Nubra—Villages—Irrigation—Salinesoil—Isolated rocks—Chirasa—Panamik—Lower Nubra—Platformsof Alluvium—Traces of a great flood—Unmaru—Kuru—Greatcontraction of valley—Mountain pass of Waris—Boghdan ravine—Chorbat—Mahommedanpopulation—Villages—Outburst of granite—Siksa—Khapalu—Openplain of Khapalu—Junction of Shayuk and Indus—Nar—Iskardoplain—Description of Iskardo—Aqueduct—Fort—Lacustrineclay formation—Vegetation | [187] | |
| CHAPTER VIII. | ||
| Leave Iskardo in the direction of Kashmir—First march through snowto Turgu—Lacustrine clay—it extends into narrow valleys beyond Nar—Gol—Junctionof Indus and Shayuk—Parkuta—Tolti—Kartash—Extensivelacustrine deposits—Tarkata—Road turns up the Dras river—UldingThung—Fall of snow—Hardas—Karbu—Continued snow—Dras—Findpass in front shut by deep snow—Obliged to return toIskardo—Rafts and rope-bridges on Indus—Elæagnus and Apricotapparently wild—Winter at Iskardo | [223] | |
| CHAPTER IX. | ||
| Leave Iskardo for Rondu—Insurrection in Gilgit—Koardu—Kamar—Enternarrow part of Indus valley—Difficult road—Range of mountainssouth of Indus—Description of Rondu—Thawar—Avalanches—Alluvium—Swing-bridge—Villages—Juniper—Pinusexcelsa—Rocks—Vegetation—Returnto Iskardo—Agriculture of Balti—Game of Chaugan—Chakorhunting—Shigar valley—Journey towards Kashmir—Drasvalley—Karbu—Dras fort—Maten—Cross pass into Kashmir—Baltal—Valleyof Sind river—Sonamarg—Gagangir—Gond—Gangan—Ganderbal—Entermain valley of Kashmir—Town of Kashmir—Description ofKashmir—Lacustrine formation—Trap hills—Lake—Climate—Vegetation | [248] | |
| CHAPTER X. | ||
| Environs of Kashmir—City lake—Gardens of Shalimar and Dilawer Khan—Pampur—Avantipura—Platformsof lacustrine clay—Mountain ofWasterwan—Ancient city—Clay, with shells and fragments of pottery—Ancienttemple imbedded in clay—Lakes caused by subsidence—Islamabad—Shahabad—Vegetation—Vernag—BanahalPass—Valley of Banahal—Tropicalvegetation—Pass above Chenab Valley—Nasmon—Jhula,or Swing-bridge—Balota—Ladhe ke Dhar—Katti—Fort of Landar—Mir—Kirmichi—Tertiarysandstones—Dhuns—Seda—Jamu | [285] | |
| CHAPTER XI. | ||
| Leave Jamu to return to Tibet—Lake of Sirohi Sar—Vegetation of lowerhills—Dodonæa—Ramnagar—Garta—Dadu, on a tributary of the Chenab—Campat 10,000 feet—Badarwar—Padri pass—Descend a tributaryof the Ravi—and ascend another towards the north—Sach Joth, or pass—Snow-beds—Campin Chenab valley | [315] | |
| CHAPTER XII. | ||
| Marked change in the Vegetation—Bridge over Chenab—Pargwal—Descriptionof Chenab valley—Asdhari—Chatargarh—Road turns up valleyof Butna—Vegetation of Chenab valley—Chishot—Snow-beds—Campat 10,500 feet—Ancient moraines—Glacier—Camp at 11,500 feet—Rapidascent along glacier—Camp on moraine, at 14,600 feet—Changeof weather—Ascent towards pass over glacier—Cross Umasi La—Descent—Immenseglacier—Encamp in Tibet, at 13,800 feet—Open valleyof Zanskar—Padum—Great change of climate—and in vegetation | [342] | |
| CHAPTER XIII. | ||
| Rope bridge across Zanskar river—Tongde—Zangla—Road leaves Zanskarriver—Takti La—Nira—Bridge over Zanskar river—Singhi La—Phutaksha—Wandla—LamaYuru—Cross Indus river—Kalatze—Nurla—Saspola—Nimo—Le—Passnorth of Le—Small glacier—Kardong—Kalsar—Vegetation—Diskit—Passageof Shayuk river—Upper Nubra—Vegetationof Nubra—Hot spring at Panamik | [367] | |
| CHAPTER XIV. | ||
| Start for Karakoram—Steep ascent out of Nubra valley—Meet a party ofMerchants from Yarkand—View from summit of pass—Rapid torrent—Largeglacier—Steep moraines—Alpine vegetation—Numerous glaciers—Lakes—Glacieron crest of Sassar pass—Sassar—Cross Shayuk river—Murgai—Limestonerocks—Ascend Murgai Valley to 16,800 feet—Singularlimestone formation—Open plain above 17,000 feet—Re-crossShayuk river—Karakoram pass—Return to Sassar—Glaciers of Sassar—Returnto Le—Start for Kashmir—Lamayuru—Phatu pass—Kanji river—Namikapass—Molbil—Pashkyum—Kargil—Dras—Zoji pass—Kashmir—Lahore—Completionof journey | [408] | |
| CHAPTER XV. | ||
| General description of Tibet—Systems of mountains—Trans-Sutlej Himalaya—Cis-SutlejHimalaya—Kouenlun—Four passes across Kouenlun—Boundariesof Western Tibet—Height of its mountain ranges andpasses—Climate of Tibet—Clouds—Winds—Snow-fall—Glaciers—theirformer greater extension—Elevation to which they descend—Snow-level—Geology—Lacustrineclay and alluvium | [456] | |
MAP of the MOUNTAINS OF NORTHERN INDIA. to illustrate Dr. Thomson's Travels in Western Himalaya and Tibet.