PLAN OF JERUSALEM.
"You may think Jerusalem is a large city; if you do you have made a mistake. The population is estimated between twenty and twenty-four thousand, and the best authorities say it does not exceed the latter figure. The Moslems do not take the census as we do; they count the families, and then make an average of the number in each family, and they don't do that very often. On the basis of twenty-four thousand inhabitants, they count thirteen thousand Moslems, seven thousand Christians, and four thousand Jews. The city was much larger in ancient times than it is at present. We cannot say exactly when it had its greatest population, as the old writers do not agree; but it was quite likely in the reign of King Solomon. The population at that time has been placed as high as half a million, but was probably not over half that number. We need not trouble ourselves on the subject, as it is the modern Jerusalem we are looking at now.
"Jerusalem has suffered more from wars than any other city in the world, or, at all events, more than any city we have seen. It has been captured no less than seventeen times, if we may believe the historians, and some of them say that on several occasions the inhabitants have been slaughtered, the buildings destroyed, and the ground sown with salt. The question that comes up to us is, 'Where did they get the salt for that purpose?' Most of these terrible events in the history of Jerusalem occurred hundreds, and some of them thousands, of years ago. The traces of the old walls of Jerusalem are visible in many places, and any visitor can easily satisfy himself that the city was once much larger than it is at present.
"As soon as we had brushed up a little after our ride from Ramleh we went out to see the city and take a stroll through the streets of this interesting place.
"Near the front of the hotel is the Tower of David on Mount Zion, along with several other buildings. There is a good deal of dispute as to the antiquity of the tower, and whether it is really the one built by King David or not. The general belief is that the foundations are the same, while the superstructure is more modern. The Church of Mount Zion was founded during the fourth century, but has been rebuilt two or three times, its present form having been given to it four or five hundred years ago. Near the church is a monastery, and its inmates call themselves the Guardians of Mount Zion. A hospital is attached to the monastery, and there is a lodging-house where poor pilgrims are received and cared for during their stay in Jerusalem.
"We went down the Street of David, which passes in front of the Mediterranean Hotel, and leads from the Jaffa Gate to Mount Moriah. We told the guide that we wanted to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. When we had gone a short distance on the Street of David we turned to the left into Christ Street, and in a few minutes were in front of the church that is revered as the burial place of our Saviour.
"There is an open space in front like a little square surrounded by buildings. We were reminded of the money-changers in the Temple as we approached the church. The space in front of it was filled with peddlers and beggars, principally the former, and there was hardly a moment when we were free from their importunities. The goods offered for sale were photographs, and curiosities from various parts of the Holy Land, together with rosaries, charms, and similar trifles made from olive-wood, the seeds of the olive-tree, or mother-of-pearl. To judge by the numbers of these itinerent merchants they must do a good business among the visitors to this sacred spot.
"Wherever we stood to look at the building before us we were surrounded by these fellows, and we thought how little the customs of the East have changed since Christ came on earth. The guide said the peddlers paid a license for the privilege of selling their goods here, and it is more than probable that the beggars have a similar authority for their importunities.
"The church was closed when we arrived, and we learned that it was only open on certain hours of the day. There have been so many quarrels among the monks that the building has been put in the care of a Moslem guard, and the key is kept by a Moslem official. There is great jealousy between the different sects—Latin, Greek, and Armenian—and the Moslems have been obliged to step in to keep the peace! More than once there have been such fierce quarrels that blows have been struck, and blood has been shed within the walls of the church!
"We did not enter the church at that time, but as we visited it afterward, and went through all parts of it, we may as well describe it while we are here.