"Several explorations have been attempted of the Land of Moab, as the country east of the Jordan is called, but only a few of them have succeeded. In most instances parties have been compelled to return just after crossing the border, and before they had accomplished anything of what they went to see. The Arabs are treacherous, and often violate their promises after they have received heavy backsheesh to permit travellers to go on without disturbance. If you want to know more of this region we advise you to read 'The Land of Moab,' by H. B. Tristram, one of the few travellers who has explored it. Another interesting work on this subject is 'The Desert of the Exodus,' by E. H. Palmer, and don't forget 'The Land and the Book,' which we have already mentioned.
"Mr. Tristram tells in his book how narrowly he escaped being robbed, and perhaps murdered, by one of the tribes that roam over the country. It often happens that there is a quarrel between two tribes, and when any parties from one encounter the other there is certain to be bloodshed. If strangers happen to be under the escort of the defeated party they must share its fate, and consequently it is not an easy matter to select a guard that can carry you through safely.
"When Mr. Tristram's party started from Hebron there were two tribes from which it was necessary to choose an escort, or rather to whom to pay black-mail. The choice fell upon the Jehalin tribe, and, after a good deal of negotiation, a contract was made and signed with them.
"Hardly had they entered the Land of Moab when they met a large band of the Beni Atiyeh, a tribe with a very bad reputation, and the number was so great that it was nonsense to think of fighting them. The dragoman went forward to parley with them, and was stripped of his outer garments, satchel, money-bag, and belt, before he could speak a word; the sheik of the escort went at the same time and with better success, as he managed to get the ear of the chief of the Atiyeh. Two or three of the men of the escort who ventured to the front were knocked down, and for a little while there was a good prospect of a very serious result to the travellers.
"It turned out that the Beni Atiyeh were on good terms with the Jehalin, and on the payment of a heavy backsheesh they allowed the party to go on. It would have been far otherwise if Mr. Tristram had chosen his escort from the other tribe that offered its services, as there was a bitter quarrel between it and the Beni Atiyeh, and there would have been no chance of an escape. No mercy would have been shown to the travellers, and possibly the Arabs would have justified their cruelty by referring to the old adage, 'A man is known by the company he keeps.'
BATHING-PLACE OF THE PILGRIMS (FROM THOMSON'S "THE LAND AND THE BOOK").
"You must know there are two bathing-places on the Jordan; one is visited by the Latins and the other by the Greeks, and each Church claims that its bathing-place is the spot where Christ was baptized by John. Mr. Thomson thinks that neither is correct, and that the scene of the baptism was considerably farther up the river than any of the present sites. He argues that, according to the historical record, Christ came from Galilee, and was baptized by John, and then returned to Galilee; the road from Galilee reaches the Jordan much farther north than the present bathing-places, and though it is possible he came to this point it is hardly probable.