When my companions left me, I was at a very friendly man’s house, who condoled my misfortune. Here I tarried about three hours, when, having determined to pursue my journey, I took leave of these friendly people, and commenced my lonely journey, moving but slowly along; and soon found I had entered the boundaries of the Choctaw nation.[[20]] I had no difficulty in finding the way, as a few years before this, a road had been cut through the Choctaw and Chickasaw nations to the Tennessee river;[[21]] and as young trees and brush had grown up in this road, the trees were marked to assist the traveller. By strictly observing these marked trees I felt secure, and proceeded slowly along, sometimes ten, and sometimes fifteen miles in a day.
At night I generally found an Indian hut, where they [38] would receive me very friendly in their way, and throw down skins for me to sleep on.
Seven days had now elapsed, and my health not in the least recruited, when, as I was walking on very deliberately, thinking of the decrease of my provision, and the distance I had yet to travel, I was overtaken by a white man, who asked me from whence I came, and where bound, at the same time observing that I looked sick, which probably must be the cause of my being alone; I answered it was. He then said, “I live but one mile from this, go with me.” I did so, and found his wife and several children in a small log hut, by whom I was received very kindly.
This favor could not have come more opportunely, as I was both fatigued and sick. This man was from North Carolina; and his motive for thus exiling himself and family to this part of the country was not my business to inquire; I have only to say, that they look suspicious. With this family I remained two days, and no brother, who had been long absent, could have been treated with more kindness and affection.
I gave him a narrative of my life, which he and the family listened to with great attention; he also narrated his great adventures in hunting.
The principal food which this cabin afforded, was dried venison and bread; the venison, for want of salt to preserve it, is cut in slices, dried and smoked, which makes what they call jerk.
I now felt myself able to travel, and concluded to proceed on. He furnished me with as much of this meat as I could carry, and after ascertaining that it was twenty-five miles to the next house, I took an affectionate farewell of this friendly man and family, and with my renewed strength, and supply of provisions, hastily travelled on until about twelve o’clock, hardly remembering I was weak; but becoming somewhat faint for want of food, I sat down, took some refreshment, and then travelled on again, till I arrived at an Indian village, where I found two squaws, all the rest having left; for what purpose I know not; probably for a frolic. I here obtained a pint of sour milk, which proved an excellent [39] cordial to me at this time. I inquired for a place of entertainment, and found, by their holding up four fingers, that it was four miles. This I quickly travelled, and found a neat Indian hut, where I found the privilege of staying by myself, without interruption from the family, who resided in an adjoining one. Salt provision and bread was what I now wanted, but neither of them could be procured; if I except some corn pounded up, mixed with water, and baked on a stone by the fire. In travelling on several days, I came to the line between the Choctaw and Chickasaw nations,[[22]] where I saw a large hewn log house and went in. The room was neat, and, as is usual, contained no furniture, except a table, nor any person, except a squaw and a few children. I walked into another apartment, and after staying some time, two white men came in and sat down, but appeared to have no wish for conversation with me. I endeavored to make some inquiries of them, but found they declined any answer. A dish of victuals was brought in and set on the table, which apparently consisted of minced meat and vegetables. I was very hungry, and the sight of this food was delightful. They sat down; I asked permission to partake with them; the answer was no. I stated my hungry situation, and observed that no reasonable compensation should be wanted; the answer was again no. I then got up and walked away, wondering within myself what could be the cause of these unfeeling creatures being here; probably for no good. I faintly travelled on until about three o’clock in the afternoon, when I came to an Indian hut, went round to the back part, there being no door in front, saw two Indians sitting on a platform of hewn logs, and endeavored to make some inquiries, but could not be understood. Thinking of the contents of my knapsack, which contained a little jerk and fat pork, without bread or salt, my stomach too weak to receive these, and I knew of nothing else I could obtain. At this moment a boy came out of a small hut a few paces distant, bringing a large wooden bowl full of boiled corn, and setting it down, they three placed themselves around it. I, knowing the Indian custom to distribute a part of what they had to strangers, ventured up and formed one of the circle. A large horn [40] spoon, perhaps three times the size of a common table spoon, was placed on the corn, which the oldest Indian filled and put into his mouth; the second one did the same, then I followed, and so it went round. When we had continued so a few minutes, a tall well dressed Indian came out of the door, looked upon us all, but viewed me very attentively; he then went back and closed the door, but immediately returned bringing with him a cake made of pounded corn and baked, about the size of a large cracker, but much thicker; this he put into my hand, and then stepped back with his eyes fixed on me. I divided it into four parts, and gave each of my messmates a part. He smiled and went again into the house, and left us to finish our repast. Never had I more reason for gratitude than at this time, and I think I did feel thankful that their hearts were open to my necessities. After we had done eating, one of the Indians took the bowl and carried it back, the others followed, leaving me alone. From the appearance of these Indians, I supposed they might be servants or laborers for the Indian who brought me the cake, who I soon found was a chief; for when they were gone, this chief came out again to me, dressed in great style, with silver bands around his arms, a large silver plate on his breast, moccassins and leggings elegantly worked in Indian fashion, a handsome hat filled with plumes, with rows of beads around it, and other ornaments; a horse was led up to a stake, a genteel saddle and bridle was put on him, and in every respect the horse appeared fit for any gentleman to ride upon. The chief looked on himself, then on the horse, then on me; and I, wishing to gratify him, expressed my surprise and gratification as well as I could both in my looks and actions. This pleased him well; he soon spoke a few words of English, and handed me a bundle of papers. On examining them, I found them to be bills of goods to a considerable amount purchased at New-Orleans. On looking over these bills, I found they contained a number of articles which he then had on; pointing to the charges and then to the articles, I expressed great surprise at the riches which he wore. All this exalted me much in his esteem, and we continued thus a considerable time. He then led me into the room where [41] his wife and children were, gave me a glass of good old whiskey, conducted me into another neat apartment, spread a handsome grass carpet on the floor, and, by signs, bid me welcome to stay all night. In the same manner, by signs, he informed me that he was going off, and bowing, left the room. I saw him no more; probably he was going to attend an Indian council. Being refreshed with food, and it drawing towards night, I laid down on the carpet, covered myself with my blanket, and quietly reposed until two o’clock in the morning, when I awoke, carefully got up, shouldered my pack and left this hospitable mansion. Being finely refreshed and feeling new vigor, I travelled on easily till the sun was up a short distance; when coming to a house, found a white woman and her daughter. I called for breakfast, and was well supplied with bread, meat, tea, &c., and some to carry with me on my journey. From the hospitable treatment I had received at the two last houses, I began to think that the worst of my journey was over, and at eight o’clock I proceeded on about two miles, when I met three squaws with large packs, who appeared to be in great haste, and took no notice of me; which gave me reason to suspect some trouble ahead. One or two miles further on heard a whooping and yelling, and presently saw an Indian running to meet me. He walked very fast, bare foot and barelegged, without any clothes but his shirt, and that very bloody, looking as though he had been engaged in some severe conflict. When he came up he seized me by the shoulder and held me fast, and kept his continual whooping and yelling, which almost stunned me. He was very drunk, and kept reeling backward and forward, which occasioned me to do the same, as his nervous arm made such a grip on my shoulder it was impossible for me to extricate myself. Sometimes he would bear me to the ground, and most of his weight would be upon me. Trying to give signs that I was sick, he laughed; I then called him bobashela, which is their word for brother; this pleased him, and having a bottle of whiskey in his other hand, he put it to my mouth saying good. I opened my mouth, and he thrust the neck of the bottle seemingly down my throat, the whiskey ran out, and strangled me badly, and [42] when I sat to coughing and choking, he burst out into a loud laugh and let go of my shoulders. He was a stout, tall man, had a long knife by his side, and put his hand several times on it, but exhibited no appearance of injuring me; yet, from his drunken situation, I thought I had considerable to fear. I repeated the word brother several times, when he looked sharp at me a few moments, and uttering a loud scream, left me to pursue my way, happy that the word bobashela had been my protection. About half an hour after this, coming round a large bend in the road, I saw twenty or thirty Indians, men, squaws and papooses, all formed in a circle. On coming up with them, I endeavored to pass, but one caught me by my pack and pulled me partly into the ring; another pulled, and another, seemingly half a dozen pulling different ways, talking, laughing, whooping, and hallooing, and I in the midst, without means of defence or chance of escape. I endeavored to make signs of sickness, but to no effect; soon a tall, old Indian stepped up and spoke to them; they all let go of me. I turned to this Indian and made signs of sickness, by putting my hand on my breast, &c., which he noticed, and seemingly with pity; he was the only sober one among them. They now began a second attack upon me; he spoke again and they left me. He now made a motion for me to go on, which I did, and having proceeded a few yards, I turned my head partly round and perceived a young Indian with a glass bottle in his hand just in the act of striking me on the head. I looked him full in the face; he lowered his bottle, and sitting partly down, laughed; he then returned to his comrades. I travelled on as fast as possible till I lost sight of them, when getting about half a mile, I came to a stream of water which crossed the road. It was narrow, and the current swift; a tree was fallen across, on the body of which I passed over. Stopping for a moment, I heard the yell of an Indian, and the footsteps of a horse in full speed; fearing it might be some of the gang I had just left, I stepped into the bushes and secreted myself behind a tree. In this situation I could see a person who passed without being discovered myself. Scarcely had I placed myself behind the tree when an Indian rode up to the stream on full speed with a [43] rifle on his shoulder; coming to the stream of water, his horse stopped and refused to proceed; he made several attempts to cross, but the horse refused, wheeling about and endeavoring to return. The Indian finding that he could not make the horse cross, sat still, looking up and down in every direction for a considerable time, when, perceiving no person, and not descrying the object of his pursuit, he wheeled about and returned. This was the same young Indian who pursued me with the bottle, and who, had he been fortunate enough to have discovered me, would immediately have ended my life with his rifle. After some time, I ventured out from behind the tree, and in great haste pursued my journey, often looking back, fearing that this or some other Indian might be in pursuit of me. I passed a number of cabins without stopping and without refreshment till after sunset, when I saw a squaw standing at a cabin door. I asked permission to stay. She made signs by holding up two fingers, that in two miles I should find a place to stop at. I went on—it soon became dark—I saw a bright light shining between the logs of a cabin. On going up to the door I saw a number of squaws sitting round the room silent, as though something serious had taken place. I made motions for staying all night, when one, who appeared to be head of the number, shook her head and pointed to another room, there being two rooms under this roof. I immediately heard surly noises and clashing of knives, the squaw appeared very anxious, and shaking her head, made signs for me to be off. I hesitated for a moment, but soon found that the room was filled with drunken Indians, which occasioned me to wait for no further invitation to depart. The squaws all looking earnestly at each other convinced me of my danger, and I stepped nimbly to the door and proceeded on. Walking about half a mile, I came to a low swampy piece of ground, and it being extremely dark, I could not tell what direction to take; and being much fatigued with travelling, and faint for want of food, having taken nothing through the day, I sat down on an old stump in mud almost knee deep, and should have fallen asleep had it not been for the fear of chilling to death, or being massacred by the Indians, which I certainly should if they had happened to have come that way. After ruminating for some time [44] on my perilous situation, I faintly rose up, travelled on perhaps for a mile, when fortunately I saw another light, and following it came up to another cabin. I knocked, and an old Indian opened the door. I stepped in—made signs to stay all night—he shook his head, pointed to the cabin I had just left, and said, Indian, whiskey, making motions that the Indians that belonged there would soon be at home, and I should be in danger should they return and find me at their cabin. This signified nothing to me, as I was totally unable to proceed any further. I therefore threw down my bundle, and this poor old Indian expressed great friendship and fear for my safety. He threw down some deerskins which they used for beds, and I laid down with my bundle under my head, without removing any of my clothing. I had a wish to keep awake, but it was impossible, and I soon fell asleep; so much was I overcome with fatigue and fasting. I awoke in about two hours; found this old friend sitting up as if to guard me; we looked at each other wistfully, and in a few minutes I fell asleep again. About two hours before daylight, the Indian pulling me by the arm, awoke me, when at a little distance from the cabin I heard Indians whooping, bells rattling, and horses in considerable numbers coming with the utmost rapidity and haste. This was a horrid sound at this dead hour of the night, when all before had been silent. I jumped up as quick as possible, and the old Indian handing me my bundle, stepped to the door and was just opening it, when they approached so near I stepped back, and both stood trembling with fear. Fortunately for us they passed by, nor was it long from our hearing them on one side before they had passed out of hearing on the other. On opening the door, it was so extremely dark, I could perceive no object; I went back and sat down before the fire on a block, not wishing to sleep any more; while the poor Indian walked back and forth in the cabin. Within one hour the same noise of whooping, yelling, horses running, &c., was heard. I caught my bundle, slipped out at the door, walked hastily about fifty yards, stepped into the bushes and sat down. In a few moments four or five Indians rode up to the door and dismounted. When I had seen the last of them go in and close the door, I ventured on my old track again; not without listening [45] attentively at the least noise, fearing they might be in pursuit of me. Travelling on as fast as my trembling limbs would permit, until nearly sunrise, I saw a large log house on the right hand side of the way, and hoped to find some friendly aid at this place; but on arriving near the place, I observed on the left hand side, a number of large trees fallen and burnt, except the bodies and large limbs; among these were ten or twelve Indians, some sitting but most of them lying down, being intoxicated. These wretched creatures had been using their knives upon each other till their heads and arms were completely mangled, and were covered with blood from head to foot. This, with the addition of crock from the burnt trees, caused them to exhibit a scene of horror which I cannot describe. I passed them without even turning my head, leaving them to suppose I did not notice them. It now began to rain very hard; I travelled on till about nine o’clock, when I saw a hut ahead, and coming within about three hundred yards, three white men came out to meet me. When we met they appeared very glad to see me, as they had heard of me several times before. I learned that they were from Natchez, and bound to the state of Indiana, on the same road I was travelling, and would keep me company through the remaining part of this wilderness. It is probable these two men passed me two days before, while I was at my friend’s the Indian chief.
The landlord here was a white man who had married a squaw, which enabled him to reside in peace among them. I conversed with him respecting his happy situation; of the plenty of every comfort of life that appeared around him, free from the noise and bustle of cities and other populous places, money constantly coming in, with little or no expenditure, &c., &c. He made some reply; the tears started in his eyes, and the discourse dropped. We tarried here until the next forenoon, in which time I washed and dried my clothes, procured provisions of our landlord, and made preparations for our departure. We left this abode of plenty, after a stay of twenty-four hours, being finely refreshed with the abundance of everything which is necessary for the support of man. Nothing extraordinary happened to us on the way; the Indians appeared [46] friendly, and provisions generally procured with ease, and thus we passed on till we arrived on the banks of the Tennessee river, at a house kept by an Indian by the name of Tallbot. This man was said to be very rich, in land, cattle and negro slaves, and also to have large sums of money in the bank. He had but one daughter, and I was told that many white men had attempted to gain this prize. But the old man suspecting their affections to be placed on the money rather than the daughter, advised her to remain single a little longer.
It has often been remarked, and I believe truly, of the Chickasaw and Choctaw Indians,[[23]] that they are very hospitable to the white people who traverse their country; and I have never heard of a life being taken or an insult given, when they were free from ardent spirits; but like all other Indians, when intoxicated they are savage, cruel and fearless. But even then, they oftenest take revenge on their own countrymen, relatives and friends, who happen to offend them. Before they enter on any business of importance, such as agriculture, or a hunting or fishing expedition, they despatch several of their men to a considerable distance, to procure a quantity of ardent spirits. This is brought on horses, in kegs of their own manufacturing, and carried to such places as they appoint, where it is deposited until the time appointed for their meeting arrives. And it is remarkable that although their thirst for rum is so great, yet this deposite is entirely safe, right in the sight of every one, and no fears are entertained of its being meddled with until the time appointed. When this time arrives they assemble and commence their operations; singing, dancing, drinking, &c. They always select one or more to keep sober, who sit quietly by themselves, watching the rest, and who taste not a drop themselves till the frolic is over, even if it should continue three or four days and nights, as it sometimes does, but which time it seldom or never exceeds. This being over, the Indian or Indians who have performed this duty take their turn, and in the same way take their fill, without interruption.
Crimes committed in a state of intoxication are generally forgiven, not even excepting murder; but if otherwise committed they are punished with the greatest severity. [47] Their barbarous customs, however, are fast wearing away, since our missionaries, schoolmasters, &c., are sent among them.