Riding bridle buckles range in width from ⅜ in. to 1 in. Stirrup leather buckles are also a special line, being from 1¼ in. to 1½ in. in width. Saddle girth buckles are 1 in. wide. Roller buckles (Figs. 175 and 176, p. [124]) vary in size from ⅝ in. to 1¾ in., and are largely used on all kinds of leather work. Head-stall or head-collar buckles range in size from 1¼ in. to 1½ in.; some have the collar attached, to which is fastened the throat lash.

The following buckles must also be kept ready to hand:—D-buckles for use on small straps; and japanned legging buckles, in sizes ranging from ½ in. to ¾ in. Head-collar stop squares, for making and repairing head-collars, must also be stocked, as well as tinned and brass rings of different sizes, for making head-collars and for miscellaneous repairs. Brass, tin, and plated dees will be necessary for making and repairing dog collars, and for holding coat straps on riding saddles, etc. They range in size from ⅝ in. to 1½ in.

Belt, brace, and garter buckles may often be wanted, and 2 lb. or 3 lb. of buckle tongues for repairing old buckles should also be obtained in all sizes and strengths. Strong double-pronged buckles may be wanted from 1½ in. to 2 in. There may also be occasion to use harness buckles of all sizes, patterns, and material, saddle terrets, hame clips (Fig. 177), various kinds of nails, breeching and bearing-rein rings, breeching dees (Figs. 178 and 179), and rivets for clips, etc.

CHAPTER XI.
VAN AND CAB HARNESS.

The making of a set of gig harness is described in the companion volume “Saddlery.” Van harness for heavy work requires a set of furniture, including buckles, hames, and chains, and a van saddle-tree. The furniture should be of brass, nickel, or silver. Burgess’s patent tug buckles (Fig. 163, p. 121) can be recommended for shaft tugs.

A pair of winker plates of any pattern (see Figs. 180 and 181) are necessary to make the winkers. Beginning with the winkers, cut the leather about ¼ in. wider than the plate all round, except at the back, where it must be ⅞ in. wider. If patent leather is used, make a line all round the edge, and another about ½ in. from it, and race a line across, 1½ in. from the back part, from one end of the inner line to the end of the other; of course, the other lines must not be brought nearer than this to the back. Prick along the lines, about eleven per inch, and single stitch the inner line all round the four sides, through the leather, employing black linen thread double, with two needles.

Cut the lining to the same size as the top, but lightly stuffed and with little oil in; put the top on it and stitch all round three sides, leaving the back open. Put the leather in water and wet it thoroughly, and then, having opened out the two leathers with the hand, put a good coat of paste on both of the inner sides by the aid of a spoon or other convenient implement.

Push in the winker plate front to front; but if the front is round cornered, it must, of course, be put in first. Push in the pieces until they lie square in the leather and close to the front stitches; then rub the top and the lining down to the sheet iron, being careful to make the lining stick well to the sheet.

Place the winker on a board, lining underneath, and tack down each of the hind corners, and if necessary, the middle; then put some paper or rags between the winker and the board so as to keep the lining up to the sheet. When quite dry and perfectly adhering, remove them from the board, trim the edges, finish and polish well.

The collar is made practically in the same way as a cart collar. The forewale must be turned down 2 in., that is 4 in. altogether, and instead of whipping the basil lining in as previously described, cut it a little smaller, and stitch it in at the same time as the forewale; tack it down in such a manner that when the lining is turned over to stuff the body, the stitches will not be visible. Take a pattern (see Fig. 96, p. [79]) and let the lining overlap in the centre of the forewale for quite 2 in. Stitching is done as for a cart collar, both for the forewale and the drawing in the body, but the last must not be so big and clumsy.