In making and setting the top piece, no stitches should appear in front other than the cross row; the top piece must not be joined downwards as in the other. Turn in the bottom of the top piece for ½ in. across, and stitch a line with black linen thread ¼ in. from the edge to keep the turn in its place. Damp the top piece, put it across the front, and draw it tight, putting a tack in both sides; then make it overlap at the top centre of the back so as to obtain a good point to hold the hame strap in place; then stitch all round the hollow.
Cut the side piece close along the sides of the body to fit tight by the forewale. Then take a piece of soft thin leather binding 1¼ in. wide, damp it, and place it edge to edge with the outside of the side piece, tacking it down. Having stitched the side piece, putting a small welt at the joint at the bottom, and shaving a little round the edges, stitch the binding and side piece together around the edge with black linen thread, about seven stitches per inch. Run a piece of twine along the stitches round the rim, and turn down the binding over the twine towards the inside, being careful to keep the twine in place. Mark a line and prick it, about eight per inch, and ⅜ in. from the edge; then stitch the binding down below the twine. The last must be in one piece with 4 in. or 5 in. to spare at each end.
Fig. 180.
Fig. 181.
Figs. 180 and 181.—Winkers.
Damp the side piece and adjust it; tack it with an awl at the bottom and draw it tight at the top. Now wax a piece of collar twine, about 18 in. longer than is necessary to pass round the collar, and begin to stitch the side piece in at the top on the off side, running the stitches through the binding close to the stitching and through the lining at every other stitch. The stitches may be about 2 in. long; draw them tight while working, and be careful that the side piece is in its proper position, with both sides equally level. Fasten the thread after stitching the side piece all round. Take hold of the hanging ends of the twine which has been run along the binding inside, and pull them well to draw down the edges of the side-piece along the side of the body; then knot and fasten them together. Draw in the side piece at the forewale as with the cart collar, using only thread or very fine white lace.
A layer of old carpet may be placed on the stitches next to the body under the side piece to give the sides smoothness and roundness. Fasten the two side pieces together at the top by stitching over from one to the other with the collar needle.
A small housing to cover the top of the collar must be cut, almost half-round in shape, but with slightly widening points and a V-shaped notch on the side next the collar for the points to pass, one on each side of the top piece; bring it down close to the forewale. It may be bound in the same style as the side piece, stitched fast edge to edge with the binding, the latter being then turned and a line stitched round a short distance from the edges; about ¾ in. below that another row of stitches is made all round. The point on the outside of the body must not project more than about ¼ in.