Mountain Craft - Unknown

Baedeker’s Canada cited, [574], [577]
— Norway cited, [536]
— S. W. France cited, [570]
Balaitous, the, [557]
Balance climbing, [144]-[8], [156], [157]
— factors involved in, [28]-[32], [140], [149], [156], [157]
Barometer. See [Aneroid]
Bath, the hot, [5]
— in tropics, [479]
— morning, cold, [4]
Bathing, [12], [13], [524], [532]
Bed, portable, [99]
Beginner, the, [113]-[6], [118]
— his choice of trainer, [114], [115]
Beginners, initial practice for, [148], [152], [153]; and see under [Rope]
Behind, the rope, [215]
Belay, the direct, [220], [221]
— the indirect, [221], [222]
Belays, [219]-[25]
Belloc’s Pyrenees cited, [570]
Benightment, [52], [53], [74], [75]
Bergschrund, [317], [337]
Bhutan, [527]
Bise, the, [446]
Bivouac, outfit for, [99]
— selection of a, [53]
Blindness, snow, [11], [343]
Blistering from sun, [11], [12], [90], [97]
Blizzards, danger of, [276]
Body brake, the, [196]
Boils, [484], [485]
Boots, [4], [80], [81], [82], [153]-[5]
— canvas, [155]
— care of, [81], [82]
— for the Himalaya, [534]
— for ski-ing, [402]
— nailing, [82], [83], [154], [155]
— rubber, [89]
Boracic powder for the feet, [5]
Boredom, [15], [16]
— of tramps over snow, [332]
Bouldering, [153], [171], [183]
Boum, the, [562]
Brakes, [195], [196]
— for glissading, [358], [359]
Breeches, [87], [88]
Breithorn, ski-ing on the Zermatt, [397]
Bridges, ice, [337], [338]
Bridgland’s Guide to Jasper Park, etc., cited, [583] n.
Britain, mist and cloud in, [389], [390]
— rocks in, [388], [389]
— snow in, [342]
Bruce’s Kulu and Lahoul cited, [529]
Bucket steps, [297]

Calendar for Alpine Ski-ing, [402], [403], [456]-[70]
Camera, the folding, [471]
— the hand, [471], [472]
— the Verascope, [478]
Canadian Pacific Railway District, the, [574]-[81]
Canteen for tropics, [487], [488]
Canvas boots, [155]
Capo al Dente, the, [519]
Carriers in tropics, [495]
Casque, the, [560]
Caucasus, the, climate of, [506]
— forests of, [508]
— literature of, [509], [510]
— maps of, [515], [516]
— modes of travel in, [511], [512], [514], [515]
— mountain system of, [508]
— mountaineering in, [506]-[16]
— — centres for, [512]
Caucasus, mountaineering in, commissariat for, [513], [514]
— — cost of, [516]
— — equipment for, [512], [513]
— records of, [508]
— routes of access to, [510]
— topography and structure of, [506]-[9]
Caulfield’s How to Ski cited, [398] n.
‘Chair,’ the, [196], [197]
Chalk, its peculiarities and risks, [180]
Chamois, as a danger, [271]
— in relation to avalanches, [441]
Chamonix Aiguilles, the, [46], [47], [277]
— granite, [146]
Check, easing of a, [258]-[60]
Checking on the rope, [259], [260]
Chill, avoidance of, [85]
— risk of, [5], [6], [7], [13]
Chimney climbing, [167]-[9]
Chimneys, descent of, [191]
Chocolate, [6], [445]
Christiania turn, the, [401]
Claws, [96], [97], [287]-[94]
— in glissading, [365], [366]
— in mountain ski-ing, [402], [419]
— their value, [286], [294], [513]
— theory of their use, [288], [289]
— types of, [287], [288]
Cliffs, sea, [181], [182]
Climbing down, [184]-[99]
— in combination, [209]-[55]
Closti turn, the, [401]
Clothing, [5], [11], [84]-[90]
— for the tropics, [488], [489]
— for women, [89], [90]
— for the Himalaya, [534]
Clouds as weather portents, [57]-[9]
— cirrus, [58]
— cumulus, [58]
— ‘fish’, [59]
— ‘mare’s-tails,’ [58]
— stratus, [58]
— thunder, [59]
Coat, the, [84], [85], [86], [87], [90]
Col du Lion, the, [57]
— Theodule, the, [57]
Cold, effect of, on endurance, [10], [11]
Coleman’s The Canadian Rockies, New and Old Trails, etc., cited, [581] n., [582], [583], [584], [586]
Collective confidence of party, [17], [18], [240]
— rhythm, [209], [211]
Colour photography, [477]
Combination, climbing in, [209]-[55]
— the secret of time-saving, [76]
Comolo Forno, the, [559]
Compass, [98]
— the radium, [52]
Confidence, danger of over-, [24], [25]
— necessity of self-, for leader, [17], [238]
Confusing effects of weather when on snow, [342]-[5]
Conjunctivitis, [483]
Constipation, [480], [481], [482]
Continuous going, [76]-[8]
Cooking apparatus, [98]
Cornices, snow, [338]-[40]
— — double, [380]
— — reconnoitring, [377]-[80]
Cornwall, cliff climbing in, [181]
Corsica, literature of, [520]
— modes of access to, [518]
— mountaineering in, [517]-[21]
— — centres for, [518], [519]
— — cost of, [518] n.
— — equipment for, [517], [518]
— — season for, [517]
— nature of climbing in, [520]
— topography and maps of, [518]-[21]
Coughs and colds, [482]
Couloirs, [268], [272]
— glissading on claws in, [365]
— reconnoitring, [382]-[4]
— snow in, [340]-[2]
— the plunging step in, [364], [365]
Courage, the measure of, [261], [262]
Courmayeur, weather in, [56]
Cover for the axe, use of a, [349]
Crabioules, the, [561]
Cracks, climbing, [165], [166]
— descent of, [191]
Crampons. See [Claws]
Crevasses, [316]-[21], [452], [455]
— hidden, [315]-[22], [449]
— marginal, [309], [450]
— reconnoitring, [381], [382]
— scimitar, [310]
— systems of, [309]-[11]
Crust, snow, [301], [331]
— effect of Föhn on, [413]
— — — frost on, [414]
— — — sun on, [415]
— — film, [414]
— — forms of, [410], [411]
— — marble, [411], [414]
— — perforated, [414]
— — soft breakable, [410]
— — trap, [410]
— — unbreakable, [410], [411]
Cups, drinking, [98]
Cushion, rubber, [99]
Cuts and scratches, [485]
Cutting. See under [Steps]
Cylindre, the, [560]

Damp, risks of, [5]
Dancing, as training, [4], [66], [156]
— movements analogous to those of climbing, [156], [157], [208]
Danger, [26], [27], [72], [149], [152], [237], [260], [261]
De Déchy’s Kaukasus Reisen und Forschungen cited, [509]
Descent, [42], [184]-[99]
Detached rock, [176], [177]
Diarrhœa, [481]
Direction, the sense of, [345]-[7]
Disappointment, [24]
Discipline of parties, [2], [3]
District, the choice of, [43]-[8]
Dogtooth Range, the, [580]
Dollfuss in May, [461]
Dom, the, [459]
Doubled rope, the, in descent, [192]-[5]
— on glaciers, [317]-[21]
Down, climbing, [184]-[99]
Drinks, [7], [8]
Dru, the, [47], [152]
Dunagiri, [529]
Dysentery, [481], [482]

Earth glissade, [182]
Earthquakes, [277], [278]
Ebnefluh, ski-work on the, [398], [459], [468]
Eckenstein, Mr., crampons designed by, [92], [96], [288]
— ice-axe designed by, [92]
— on knots for Alpine ropes, [94], [95]
— on nails for boots, [83]
— on ropes for Alpine work, [93], [94], [95]
Elbrus, [509]
End man, dangers of his fall, [260]
Equipment, for Alps, [80]-[8]
— for Arctic mountaineering, [498], [499]
— for Caucasus, [512]-[4]
— for Corsica, [517], [518]
— for Himalaya, [532]-[5]
— for mountain ski-ing, [402]
— for Norway, [539], [540]
— for Pyrenees, [566]-[9]
— for rock climbing in Britain, [88], [89]
— for Rocky Mountains, [588]-[90]
Ewige Schnee, [330]
Exceptional ascents, [120]-[2], [149]
Excitement, dangers of over-, [16]
Exercise, forms of preliminary, [4], [156], [158], [159], [181]
Exhaustion, [26], [27]
Experts, guide and amateur as, [111], [112], [118], [119]
Eyes, right use of the, in climbing, [146], [147], [166], [184], [185], [186], [187], [192], [312], [313], [321], [370]-[396]

Face-inward position in descent, [190], [191]
—— in glissading, [363], [364]
Face-outward position in descent, [188], [189]
Face-sideways position in descent, [189], [190]
Fall, [256]
— after a, [262]-[4]
Fallibility, human, [256], [257]
Fatigue, temper as a sign of, [20]
Fear, [26], [27]
Feet, care of the, [4], [5], [83]
Fell climbers, [142]
Fellowship, necessity of good, [3]
Fencing as training, [4], [66]
Fiescherhorn, the, [468]
Finsteraarhorn, the, [442]
Finsteraarjoch Pass, in winter, [397]
Firn, [285], [330]
First man on the rope, duty of the, [237]-[9]
Flysch, [425]
Fog. See [Mist]
Föhn, the, [59], [60], [61], [417]-[22]
— effects of, on snow, [326], [328], [377], [380], [412], [413]
— in spring, [421], [422], [436]
— in winter, [418]-[21]
— the dry, [418], [430]
— the wet, [413], [418], [429], [430]
Folgefond, the, [542]
Following and leading, [217], [218]
Food, the choice of, [6]
— — for tropics, [486], [487]
Foot brake, the, [195]
Footing, the right, for guide and climber, [125]-[9]
Footwork, [140], [141], [153]-[8], [161], [176]
— for balance climbing, [282]-[4]
Forbes, Prof. J. D., his Norway and its Glaciers cited, [536]
Fourcanade, the, [556], [562], [563]
Freak climbs, [182], [183]
Freshfield’s Round Kangchenjunga cited, [527]
Freshfield and Sella’s The Exploration of the Caucasus cited, [509], [515]
Front, the rope in, [214], [215]
Frost-bite, precautions against, [5], [288] n.
— remedies for, [10]
Frostisen, [544]
Fruit ice, [8]
Funicula, [254], [255]
Furka, the, [464]

Gabbro, [542], [543]
Gabiétou, the, [560]
Gaiters, [84]
Galdhöpiggen, [544]
Galenstock, the, [463], [464]
Galmihorn, the, [459]
Garhwal, [528]
Gauli Hut, the, [457]
Géant, the Dent du, [152], [201], [278]
Geology, value of knowledge of, [425], [426]
Giddiness, [9], [28]-[31], [182]
Gjækkevarre, the, [542]
Glacier falls, [311], [314]
— mills, [310]
Glaciers, [279]-[81], [285], [308]-[24]
— in the Himalaya, [531]
— in New Zealand, [554]
— in Norway, [545], [546]
— in the Pyrenees, [556]-[62]
— in the Rocky Mountains, [586]
— in Spitsbergen, [503], [504]
— practice in ice work on, [285], [286]
— ski-ing on, in winter, [448]-[56]
— snow-covered, [314]-[22]
Glacier work, [308]-[24]
Glasses, field, [97], [98]
— for prevention of snow-blindness, [11], [97], [321], [322], [534]
— for reconnoitring, [395]
Glazed rock, risks of, [170], [171], [193]
Glissading, [348]-[69]
— alternate, [362], [363]
— arrest of, [352]
— face-inward, [363], [364]
— jumping while, [357], [358]
— on claws, [365], [366]
— — in couloirs, [365]
— on earth, [182]
— on grass, [368], [369]
— on heather, [368], [369]
— on ice, [349]-[52]
— — position for, [349]-[52]
— on sand, [366]
— on scree, [366]-[8]
— on snow, [353]-[66]
— on volcanic ash, [366]
— — braking, [354], [355], [358], [359], [360]
— positions for, [353]-[61]
— — steering, [355]-[7]
— stone tests for, [361]
— the axe brake for, [354], [358], [359]
— the foot brake for, [358], [359]
— the rope in, [361], [362]
Glittertind, [544]
Gloves, [10], [86], [89], [195], [258]
Goats as a danger, [271]
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the, [582]-[4]
Grease on the face, [11], [90], [97]
Gredetschthal, the, [459]
Grépon, the, [47], [152], [385]
Grimsel region, the, [425], [463]
Grip climbing, [142], [143], [145], [174], [176]
Gritstone, [180]
Grove’s The Frosty Caucasus cited, [509]
Grundlawinen. See [Avalanches, ground]
Gspaltenhorn, the, [447]
Guide as mountaineer, the ideal, [107], [108]
— companionship of amateur and, [128], [129], [136], [137]
— nature, [123]-[37]
Guides, Alpine, changed conditions of, [103], [104]
— as experts, [111], [112], [119]
— care for their comfort, [126], [127]
— estimation of their qualities, [53]-[5]
— management of, [123]-[37]
— misconceptions of their function, [101]-[3]
— question of engaging, [118]-[22]
— traditional idea of, [102]
Guides’ books, hints as to writing up, [53]-[5]
Gullies, [141], [142], [268]
— glissading in winter, [368]
Gurla Mandhata, [528], [529]

‘Half step’ trick, the, [37]
Halts, [40], [77], [78], [332]
— the rope during, [251], [252]
Handholds, to cut, in ice, [298]
Hands, use of the, [161]-[7]
Hat, the, [85], [89]
Headaches, [9]
Health, importance of, [3], [4]
Heart, training and development of the, [67], [68]
Height, advantages of, [71]
— the psychological effect of, [31], [32], [293]
Helmet, woollen, [86]
Hill-shock. See [Hysteria]
Himalaya, the, climbing conditions in, [523], [525], [526]
— configuration of, [522], [523]
— glaciers of, [529]
— management of expedition to, [523]-[525]
— mountaineering in, [522]-[35]
— — clothing for, [534]
— — cost of, [531], [532]
— — equipment for, [528], [532], [533], [535]
— — food for, [533]
— — hints for, [533], [534]
— — instruments for, [535]
— — season for, [526]
— — use of claws in, [288] n.
— topography of, [527]-[9]
Hindu Khush, the, [530], [531]
Hochgebirgskalk, [425]
Holding the rope, [225]-[7]
Holds, anatomical, [244]
— cling, [161]-[2]
— finger, [161]
— friction, [160], [161], [169]
— on rock and ice, practice of, [69]
— over, [162]
— press, [163], [164], [179]
— pull, [174], [177], [179]
— push, [163]
— side, [162]
— under, [162]
Humours, preventable, [14]-[7]
Hurry, the blunder of, [38], [39], [40], [76], [77], [332]
Hut usages, [48]-[50]
Hysteria, or hill-shock, [26]-[8]

Ice, black, [285], [288], [294], [374]
— blue, [284]
— glacier, [284]
— grainy, [284]
— — hard, [290], [291], [545]
— honeycombed, [374]
— — rotten, [290], [294]
— — soft, [290]
— snow, [285]
Ice axe. See [Axe]
Ice claws. See under [Claws]
— climbing in relation to rock climbing, [282]-[4]
— craft, [282]-[324]
— fragments, danger from falling, [275], [276]
— sky, the, [393], [394]
Imitation, in collective climbing, [211]-[3]
Incudine, the, [520]
Infection of leader by party, [25], [26]
Injured man, a danger to his party, [260], [261]
Instruments, [57], [535]
Ireland, cliff climbing in, [181], [182], [391]

Joanne’s Pyrénées cited, [570]
Jungfrau, first winter ascent of, [397]
Justedals-brae, the, [545], [546]

Kamet, [529]
Kasbek, [512]
Kashmir and Karakoram, [530]
Kellas, Dr., on Sikkim, cited, [527], [528]
Kletterschuhe, [96], and see [Soles]
Knee, right use of the, in climbing, [146], [160]
Knickerbockers, [85]
Knots for ropes for mountaineering, [94], [95], [96], [255]
— tests of, [96]
Knutshultind, [544]
Kumaon, [528]