Mountain Craft - Unknown

Lakes, the, [140], [152]
— snowcraft in, [342]
Lantern, folding, [52], [98]
Lava, old, [180]
Leader, duties of the, [1], [6], [8], [9], [10], [13], [18], [23], [39], [43], [44], [48]-[55], [125], [150], [151], [237]-[9], [323], [332]
— guide or amateur as, [109], [111]
— qualifications for, [1], [2], [3], [4], [9], [14], [15], [16], [19], [20], [21], [25], [33], [56], [150], [151], [237], [238], [239], [321]
— responsibilities of, [2], [6], [9], [10], [16], [17], [27], [32], [34], [35], [36], [38], [39], [111], [133], [134], [150], [151], [153], [227], [237]-[9], [260], [261], [263]
Le Blonde’s, Mrs., Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun cited, [536]
Leeches, [484]
Lens, [471], [473]
Light, to procure a, [52]
Lillienfeld ski, [398]
— system, [399], [401]
Limestone, [180], [181]
Loads, risks of unnecessary, [22], [75], [76]
Long rope, the, [198], [199]
Longstaff, Dr., on the Purcell Range, cited, [579]
Loops in ropes for glacier work, [320]
Lumière autochrome, the, [477]
Lungs, training and development of the, [67], [68]
Lunn’s Cross Country Ski-ing cited, [398] n., [402]
Lyskamm, the, [4]

Malaria, [480]
Maps, [98]
Marble, [180]
— crust, [411], [414]
Marboré, the, [557]
Mascot, uses of a, [34]
Matterhorn, the, [57], [112], [113], [201], [271], [272], [381], [386]
Maupas, the, [562]
May in the High Alps, [456]-[61], [463], [464]
Medicine chest for tropics, [485], [486]
Medicines, [100]
Merzbacher’s Aus den Hochregionen des Kaukasus cited, [509], [515]
Mind, influence of, on the body, [14], [129], [240]
Mist and cloud, uses of, [389], [390]
— dangers of, [277], [343], [346]
Moine, the, [152]
Mont Perdu, the, [559], [560], [561]
Monte Cinto, [520]
— Corona, [519]
— d’Oro, [519]
— Padro, [519]
— Renosa, [519]
— Rosa, [446], [457], [468], [469]
— — ski-ing on, [397]
Moraines, [178], [208], [292]
Mosquitoes, [480], [540]
Moods, abnormal, [23]-[8]
Mount Assiniboine, [575]
— Ball, [575]
— Beaver, [579]
— Cook, [551], [553]
— Duncan, [579]
— Edith Cavell, [575], [583]
— Fitzwilliam, [583]
— Hector, [576]
— Moloch, [577]
— Robson, [584], [585]
— Sir Sandford, [579]
— Torlesse, [553]
Mountain photography, [471]-[8]
— sickness, [9], [10]
Mountaineer, the amateur, contrasted with the guide, [103]-[8]
— the composite, [106]
— the moderate, [116]-[8]
— the true, [280]
Mountaineering in winter, [397]
Muffler, [86]
Mumm’s Five Months in the Himalaya cited, [528] n.
Mummery’s My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus cited, [509]
Mürren, [469]
Muscular fitness, [9], [65], [66]

Nails, special, for climbing boots, [82], [83], [154]
Nanda Devi, [529]
Napes ridges, the, [152]
Natives, management of, [494], [495]
Nepal, [528]
Nerve, [70]
— exhaustion, [9], [26], [27]
Nerves, [68], [69]
Névé, [285], [330], [335], [448], [465], [470]
Neve’s Picturesque Kashmir cited, [530] n.
New Zealand, flora and fauna of, [553], [554]
— glaciers in, [554]
— guides for the Alps of, [549]
— mountains of, [550], [551], [555]
— routes to, [548], [549]
— the Southern Alps of, [548]-[55]
— topography and structure of, [551]-[3]
— weather of, [550]
Night dangers. See [Benightment]
Night, hints for walking at, [51]-[3]
Norway, glaciers of, [540], [541], [542], [543]
— guide books and literature, [536], [537]
— local conditions in, [544]-[7]
— mountaineering in, [536]-[47]
— — equipment for, [539], [540]
— — expense of, [538], [539]
— — guides for, [540], [541], [542]
— — season for, [537]
— mountains of, [542]-[4]
— routes of access to, [538]
— topography and structure of, [542]-[4]
Norway and Sweden, wind-swept snow in, [408]
Numbers suitable for parties, [34], [35]

Oberaarjoch, the, [463], [464]
Oberland, the, crossed on ski, [397]
— its opportunities and characteristics, [45], [46]
— weather in the, [57]
Obstinacy, hysterical, [28]
Old age, climbing in, [73]
Oppenheim’s New Climbs in Norway cited, [536]
Order, the, on the rope, [227]-[36]
— of moving on the rope, the, [236], [237];
and see under [Rope]
Outfit for the Alps, [91]-[100]
Outram’s In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies cited, [574], [581]
Overhang, in descent, [194], [195]

Pace, adjustment of, to the task, [74]-[9]
— setting the, [37]
Packe’s Guide to the Pyrénées cited, [570]
Paglia Orba, [521]
Palmer’s Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks cited, [578] n., [579]
Panic, [27], [272]
Parasites, body, [484]
Passing ahead, [37], [38]
Paulcke, [397]
Pegs and aids, [96], [200]-[3]
Pennines, characteristics of the, [46]
Perdighero, [561]
Persistence in uncertain weather, [63], [64]
Perversity, mountain, [267]-[72]
Photography, mountain, [471]-[8]
— — choice of subjects, [475]-[7]
— — equipment for, [471]-[5]
— — in colour, [477]
— — stereoscopic, [477]-[8]
Pic d’Albe, [562]
— d’Astazou, [560]
— de Bécibéri, [559]
— d’Enfer, [557]
— Long, [559], [561]
— du Midi d’Ossau, [556], [557]
— Moulières, [562]
— du Munia, [561]
— de Néthou, [559], [562]
— de la Pique, [562]
— de Pinède, [561]
— du Port d’Oo, [561]
— des Posets, [559], [562]
— de Salenques, [562]
Pitons. See under [Pegs]
Port de Venasque, [562]
Positions in descent, [187]-[91]
Powder snow, [326], [327], [405]-[11]
— — effect of sun on, [408]-[11]
— — — wind on, [407], [408]
— — the ideal ski-ing surface, [406]
— — reconnoitring, [374]
— — in spring, [412]-[7], [430]
— — in winter, [411], [412]
Preparations, psychological, for ascent, [129], [130]
Punta di Capella, [520]
Purcell Range, the, [579]-[80]
Putties, [89], [125], [289]
Pyramid Peak, [586]
Pyrenees, the, [556]-[71]
— centres for climbing, [560]
— huts and inns, [566]
— literature of the, [570]
— maps of, [564]-[6]
— mountaineering in, [556], [557], [563]
— — cost of, [569]
— — equipment for, [566]-[9]
— — guides for, [563], [564]
— topography and structure of, [557]-[563]

Quairat, the, [561]
Quarries, scrambling in, for practice, [181]
Quartz, its peculiarities and risks, [179], [180]

Rabot’s Au Cap Nord cited, [542]
Reach, advantages of, in climbing, [71]
Reconnoitring, [370]-[96]
— angle on snow, [375]-[7]
— couloirs, [382]-[4]
— glaciers, [311]-[4], [381], [382]
— the half-seen, [390], [391]
— ice, [374], [381], [382]
— importance of, [370]-[3]
— ridges, [386], [387]
— rock, [384]
— rock faces, [384]-[6]
— rocks in Britain, [388]-[90]
— slabs, [387], [388]
— snow cornices, [377]-[80]
— snow surface conditions, [374], [375]
— the unseen, [391]-[6]
— wind and snow signs, [380], [381]
Réquin, the, [152]
Rescue parties, [266], [267]
Rhone Valley, the upper, [424]
Rhythm, balance, [144], [156], [157]
— collective, [209]-[11]
— of movement, importance of, [140], [141], [143], [145], [148], [156], [157]
— of step, importance of, [39], [40], [41], [76], [77], [78], [79], [145], [148]
Rib riding, [169]
Ring, use of the, [193]
— risks of the, [194], [198]
Ringworm, [484]
Ripple mark, [407]
Roche Miette, the, [587]
Rock avalanche, [271]
Rock climber, the good, [138], [146]-[9], [171]
Rock climbing, [138]-[208]
— — in relation to ice climbing, [282]-[4]
— — development of, [138]-[44]
Rock sky, the, [393]
Rocks, knowledge of structure of, [138]
— in Britain, [388], [389]
Rocky Mountains, access to the, [574], [591]
— — literature of the, [574], [586]
— — maps of the, [576], [579], [581], [585], [586]
— — minor ranges of the, [580]
— — modes and cost of travel in the, [587]-[8]
— — mountaineering in the, [572]-[91]
— — — guides and equipment for, [578], [588]-[90]
— — topography of the, [572]-[87]
Rope, best handgrip on the, [225]
— carrying the, [253]
— choice of the, [93]-[4]
— coiling the, [246], [252], [253]
— in collective climbing, [213]-[7]
— danger of abuse of the, [216], [217]
— drying the, [253]
— first man on the, [237]-[9]
— frequent examination of the, necessity for, [253]
— on ice, [305]-[8]
— kinks in the, [253]
— length of the, [253], [254]
— management of the, [246]-[55]
— order of moving on the, [236]-[7]
— order on the, [227]-[36]
— — on difficult or new ascents and descents, [228]
— — on direct ascents and descents, [227], [228]
— — on easy ascents and descents, [228]
— — on traverses, [229]-[32]
— — with beginners, [233]-[6]
— right use of the, in descent, [191]-[9]
— — on snow, [335]-[7]
— second man on the, [239]-[45]
— third man on the, [245]-[6];
and see under [Doubled], [Knots], [Long], [Funicula], and [Halts]
“Rope-riding,” [217]
Rosenlaui, [461]
Ross’s A Climber in New Zealand cited, [554]
Rubber soles, [155], [182]
Rucksack, the, [5], [91]
Rulten, [545]
Running as training, [4]
Russell’s Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées cited, [570]
— Souvenirs d’un Montagnard cited, [570]

Safety-pins, [85], [86]
Sandstone, risks and peculiarities of, [180]
Sark, the island of, cliff climbing on, [181]
Schaeffer, Mrs., her Old Indian Trails cited, [584] n.
Schneebrett. See [Wind slab]
Schrader, M., on the Pyrenees, quoted, [557]
Scotland, cliff climbing in, [181], [182]
Scottish mountains, snow craft on, [342]
Scree, [178], [179]
— glissading on, [366], [368]
— in relation to ski-ing, [426]
Sea cliffs, [181], [182]
Sealskins for ski-ing, [402], [449]
Season, habit of the, [62], [63]
Second man on the rope, the, duty of the, [239]-[45]
— — — in case of accident, [262], [263]
Selkirk mountains, the, [577]-[9]
Séracs, [275], [301], [313], [335]
Shirts, [85], [88]
Signals, code of rescue, [51], [266]
Sikkim, [527]
Silence, dangers of, [18], [20], [51], [238]
— uses of, [23], [240]
Simla Hill States, the, [529]
Sitting glissading, [360], [361]
Skagastölstind, [542], [544]
Skating movements, analogous to those of climbing, [156]
Skavla, [408]
Ski, mountaineering on, [397]-[470]
— Lillienfeld, [398]
— for mountain work, [402]
— for summer work, [64], [397], [469], [470]
Ski-ing in the High Alps, [399], [400]
— Lillienfeld system of, [399], [401]
— Norwegian style of, [399]
— technique of, [398]-[401]
— turns, [400], [401]
— Zdarsky’s system of, [398]
Skin diseases, [483]
Skipping as training, [4], [66]
Sky, ice as affecting its tint, [393], [394]
— rock as affecting its tint, [393]
— snow as affecting its tint, [392], [393]
Skye, climbing in, [152]
Slab climbing, [142], [143], [166], [167], [387], [388]
Slate, its peculiarities and risks, [179]
Sleeping sack, [99], [498], [499], [513], [532], [567], [589]
Sleeplessness, [483]
Slides, photographic, [473], [474]
Sling for axe, [93], [298]
Slings, rope, [193], [194]
Slingsby’s Norway the Northern Playground cited, [536]
Slips, how to accept, [41], [42]
Smoking, [89]
Snake-bite, [484]
Snow a bar to starting, [63], [64]
— avalanches, [423]-[42]
— bridges, [337]
— cornices, [338]
— craft, [16], [325]-[46]
— — for ski-ing, [403], [404]
— crusted, [331]
— — reconnoitring, [374]
— granular, [416]
— in couloirs, [340]-[2]
— new, risks of, [327]
— pink, [546]
— powdery, [326], [327];
and see under [Powder snow]
— the rope and axe on, [335]-[7]
— sky, the, [392], [393]
— slides, danger of, [273]-[5]
— slopes, reconnoitring, [375]-[7]
— — security of, [329], [333]-[5]
— soft, its risks and difficulties, [330]-[332]
— spring, for ski-ing, [412]-[7]
— steps, [333], [334]
— summer, for ski-ing, [422], [423]
— travail, [330]-[3]
— winter, for ski-ing, [411], [412]
Snow-blindness, [11], [343]
Snow-line, the, [459]
Snow-water, its supposed danger, [8]
Social composition of a party, [32]-[6], [109], [110], [150]
Socks, [4], [5], [10], [83], [87], [88], [89], [155], [156]
Soles, hard, [153], [154]
— rubber, [155], [182]
— soft, [154], [155], [171], [179], [284]
Solitary climbing, [151], [152]
— — unjustifiable on snow or ice, [315]
Soum de Raymond, [560]
Spectacles. See under [Glasses]
Spender and Llewellyn Smith’s Through the High Pyrenees cited, [570]
Spitsbergen, coast of, [500]-[2]
— glaciers of, [501], [502], [503], [504]
— interior of, [502]-[4]
— modes of access to, [497], [498]
— mountaineering in, [497]-[505]
— — cost of, [505]
— mountains of, [502]-[4]
Spring in the High Alps, [456]-[68]
— snow for ski-ing, [412]-[7]
— Time-table for ski-ing, the, [466]-[8]
Springing the rope, [197], [198]
Stances, on rock, [218], [219], [223]-[7], [246], [247]
— on snow, [336], [337]
— on ice, [298], [306], [307]
Stedtind, [544]
Stemming turn, the, [400], [401]
Step-cutting practice, [182]
Steps, cutting, [294]-[302]
— using, [302]-[5]
Stereoscopic photography, [477], [478]
Stick, use of the, in ski-ing, [399], [400], [401], [442], [450], [454]
Stimulants, their use, [7], [8]
— — in the tropics, [487]
Stockings, [83], [86], [155]
Stomach, care of the, [4], [5], [86], [479], [480], [482]
Stones, dangers of falling, [250], [251], [268]-[73]
— reconnoitring couloirs for, [382]-[4]
— — faces for, [386]
Storm Mountain, [575]
Strahlegg Pass, crossing in winter, [397]
Strandaatind, [543]
Strata, rock, importance of acquaintance with, [383]-[5], [388], [425], [426]
Stutfield and Collie’s Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian Rockies, cited, [575] n., [580] n., [581]
Subconsciousness, sphere of, in mountaineering, [69]
Sulitelma, [544]
Summer ski. See under [Ski]
Sun, dangers of, [11]
Sunburn, [90], [97]
Sunstroke, [12], [482]
Sutherlandshire, cliff climbing in, [181]
Sweater, [86], [88]
Sweet-stuffs, value of, [6], [7]
Swimming as training, [66]

Taillon, the, [557], [560]
Teeth, care of the, [479], [480], [482], [483]
Tehri Garhwal, [529]
Telemark turn, the, [400], [401]
Temper of mountaineering party, the, [19]-[23]
Tennis as training, [4]
Tents, [99], [513];
and see [Equipment]
— for tropics, [491]-[3]
— Mummery, [492], [499], [533]
— teepee, [588]
— Whymper, [491], [532]
Thawing of snow, the, [409], [415], [416]
Thigh brake, the, [195], [196]
Third man on the rope, duty of the, [245]-[6]
Thirst, [7], [8]
Thunderstorms, danger of, [276]
Tirich Mir, [531]
Tour de Marboré, [560]
Tourist, the mountaineer, [112], [113], [118]
Trade goods for tropics, [494], [495]
Training, [65]-[73]
Trap crust, [410]
Tricouni nails for boots, [82], [83]
Tripod for camera, [472], [474]
Tropical diseases, [480], [481]
— mountaineering, [479]-[96]
— — equipment for, [486]-[93]
— — health in, [479]-[86]
— — management of expedition for, [493]-[6]
Tryfan, the buttresses of, [152]

U.H.U. Stollen nails for boots, [82]
Underwear, [88], and see [Equipment]
Unsound rock, [173]-[9]
Unusual rock [179]-[83]
Urbachthal, [424], [457]