Do not purchase boots the uppers of which are formed of leather possessing an artificial grain. This is easy to detect; the rollers from which the skins receive their impressions are of too even a pattern, and the imitation is struck deeper than the real. Good upper leathers should handle mellow; leather destitute of suppleness and soft silkiness, or that leaves a decided line whenever pressed into a crease, should, in all instances, be avoided. With regard to the soles of boots, great precautions should be used to see that they are of the thickness they seem to be. It has become a practice with cutting manufacturers to use an outer sole of extremely light substance, making up the deficiency by means of an extra inserted welt. By this plan a box is formed between the inner and outer sole, the hollowness of which is filled in with scraps of leather, cardboard, or any foreign substance that is easily procurable and is fitted for the purpose. When sole leather has been cut and affixed as soles, the distinguishing marks that characterise good and bad leather are hidden from sight, so that the means of detecting that which should be avoided are few, and difficult to point out to a tyro. Sole leather being placed to resist moisture, it should not be too porous; in other words, it should be close in its grain, and possessed of a full share of firmness. The firmness here spoken of is something entirely distinct from brittleness. There can be solidity without brittleness, and this should be easily distinguished.
A boot should have a good and sufficient stiffener inserted at the heel to strengthen its back, and facilitate the getting of it on or off. This should be carefully inserted, and be shaped away so as to offer no resistance to the entrance of the foot. The top portion should be firmly secured to the back that it is meant to strengthen; so much so that there should be no possibility of its rucking down upon the insertion of the foot. It should be observed whether there is a superfluity of leather in the waist of the foot, that is, under the arch of the foot. The existence of such useless leather is a sure sign that the boot has been badly lasted, and that it has little or no spring in it, and that it will consequently give little or no support to the arch of the foot it covers. The buttonholes of a boot upper, if it have any, should be well and carefully stitched, and they will be found to wear much better if they are protected by the insertion of a cord. This cord sustains the drag or strain that the unprotected leather would otherwise have to bear. The channel is that portion of a hand-sewn boot in which the thread that attaches the outer sole to the welt lies hidden. Care should be taken by the purchaser to see that this channel is well and sufficiently closed over, otherwise it is easy to perceive that the sole has lost more than half its resisting power to damp or wet, and that the stitches will get soaked and speedily rot. The “seat” of a boot is that portion just above its heel. Look at this carefully. If it is likely to tread over by failing to resist the pressure it will be called upon to bear, do not by any means be persuaded to become the purchaser of boots with this defect. The reason why the front part of the upper of a boot is cut in two portions is because that practice conduces to economy. In selecting a pair of boots great care should be taken to avoid those in which the join falls over the great-toe joint.
Some time ago a correspondent of The Field gave an excellent and simple method of treating the soles of boots to make them last as long as the “uppers.” The plan was to apply to them when new as many coats of coachmaker’s varnish as the leather would soak up. In varnishing the soles the following hints are of value, though, however roughly the operation is performed, they will become waterproof and durable:—(a) See that the soles are dry before using the varnish; also scrape off the black polish from the face of the heels; (b) thin the varnish according to circumstances; 1 tablespoonful turps to ½ pint varnish will usually be the right proportions; (c) place the boots, soles upwards, in a dry place, and give soles and heels 3 copious coats of varnish the first day, 2 the second day, and one coat each day after that until the leather will absorb no more; (d) do not miss a day, or the soles will harden and no more varnish will go into the leather; (e) 2 days after the last coat the boots should be worn, so that the soles may get shaped to the feet whilst moist. These directions may appear elaborate, but they are really very simple; and however badly the varnishing is done, the results will, to a certain extent, be good.
Ladies who have much walking are strongly advised to have kid leggings made at a bootmaker’s to button on from the tops of their boots to their knees; they can then go out in wet, damp, or extremely cold weather with perfect impunity. For girls who walk to and fro to attend school, or for those who are forced to go out in all weathers, the plan is a good one and well worthy of trial. The leggings are no weight, they are very warm, and will keep out damp and cold; whilst they are small enough to be carried about in a pocket, and put on or left off at a moment’s notice; so that they need only be worn when extra protection is absolutely needed.
Squeaky boots may be cured by the injection of powdered French chalk through a perforation in the inner sole; the free use of the same substance between the soles when boots are being made will effectually prevent any trouble of this nature.
Gloves.—In winter, at least, woollen gloves should be worn, as best preserving the proper circulation of the blood in the hands, and lessening the chance of chilblains. In the warm seasons silk or cotton ones are preferable to kid.
Head-gear.—Were it possible to form a covering for men’s heads which would admit both light and air in due proportions, a great problem would be solved, and baldness would be reduced to a minimum. Since hats are a necessity, they should be very light, pliant as far as may be, well ventilated, and with a soft band which will compress the arteries of the temple as little as possible. The hat, too, should only be worn when it cannot be laid aside—not constantly, or when in the house. Ventilation is best secured by having a slight space between the band and the hat proper in front and behind, the hat being close to the head at the sides, to avoid conveying the impression of being over large. In addition, there should be a hole in the crown for cold weather, and in the sides and crown in summer. As to women’s bonnets, any advice would be a mere waste of words.
Veils, especially those ornamented with spots, &c., have a bad effect on the eyes. Persistent mischief is done by the practice of binding a veil tightly round the face in such a way that not only is the sight obscured, but the eyes are mechanically irritated by the fabric clouding them.... Veils of to-day are semi-transparent eye-bandages, and must tend to disturb the vision, as well as to set up irritation in the eye-lids. (Lancet.)
Waterproofs.—It is highly important that the public should clearly understand the manner in which waterproof garments may prove injurious to health, and how any effect of this kind may be prevented. A mackintosh is perspiration-proof as well as rain-proof, and, consequently, when one is worn the perspiration, being unable to escape, accumulates in the clothes, and they become damp. Upon its removal, the evaporation of this fluid—in other words, the drying process—commences, with its attendant loss of heat and well-known risk of “chill.” The retention of this heat, which would otherwise be gradually lost, makes the mackintosh invaluable during a long drive on a cold winter’s day. The disadvantage of this garment is, not that it inflicts any injury while it is on; but that our clothes being damp, we may catch cold upon its removal, unless our dress be changed at the same time; and when the dampness is very decided this precaution should certainly be taken. Endeavour to avoid excessive perspiration by walking slowly when you have a mackintosh on, and do not wear it in hot weather except for driving. (Dr. P. Foster.)