It is not necessary to know how to swim to be able to keep from drowning. A little experience of the buoyant power of water, and faith in it, is all that is required. A small boy who cannot swim a stroke may propel himself back and forth across a deep, wide pond by means of a board, that would not sustain 5 lb. weight. Children and all others should have practice in the sustaining power of water. In many cases the knowledge that what will sustain a lb. weight is all that is necessary to keep one’s head above water will serve better in emergencies than the greatest expertness as a swimmer.
A person unfamiliar with the buoyant power will naturally try to climb on top of the floating object on which he tries to save himself. If it is large enough, that is all right. But it is generally not large enough to keep all entirely above water. This often happens when pleasure boats capsize. All immediately want to get out of the water on top of the overturned or half-filled boat, and all are drowned except those whom the craft will wholly bear up.
If they simply trust the water to sustain 99 per cent. of the weight of their bodies, and the disabled boat the other 1 per cent., they all might be saved under most circumstances. An overturned or half-filled wooden boat will sustain more than it will carry. It would keep the heads above the water of as many people as could get their hands on the gunwale. These are simple facts easily learned, and may every day save life.
Velocipeding.—The following are a few hints on the prevention and cure of accidents to tricycles.
A very common accident in tricycles fitted with plain bearings, is “firing.” The cause is generally want of oil. Friction, which oil greatly reduces, makes the bearing heat. The heat increases, and, after running heavily for some little time, the metal expands, so that a dead-lock is the result, and the part refuses to move. The best remedy is to get some boiling water and cloths, which, being soaked, and laid round the outside, will in a short time unfix the most obstinate bearing. A good oiling should be given. In a new front steerer, unless the balance gear and driving axle be well oiled there is a tendency to “fire,” as the fitting is very close. It is better to over-do the lubrication than otherwise in a new machine, owing to this same close fitting.
Another accident tricycles are liable to, especially in light ones, is a bent axle. The cause is either the jar occasioned by riding over a large stone or brick, a thick dress being violently “wound up” in the chain, or the fact that the rider is too heavy for the machine. The fact of the axle being bent is painfully evident in a bad case from the “wobbling” of the wheel nearest the seat of the damage. A slight bend may be detected by tilting the machine, and spinning one wheel with the hand, watching the stationary one. If this oscillates slightly, there is a bend. If the axle is bent, it can only be rectified by a skilled mechanic. If an axle bends again it is most politic to have a new axle fitted, as, for an axle to break at full speed, is the most dangerous of accidents.
A bent steering rod is a very common occurrence. It often happens that the adjusting screw at the end of the fork arm works tight, and, as the screw is only meant to work as a pivot, the tight joint often “jams,” and, unless slackened, the rod either bends, or, worse still, breaks. Another cause of the same accident is the steering head working tightly—deficient lubrication again. A blow on the rod or a flaw in the steel may cause a like result. A bent steering rod may be pulled straight without much trouble, a broken one is a more serious matter. A good plan is to tie the head of an umbrella or walking stick, if of a suitable shape, to the spanner fitted on the head or the arm of the steering head, and steer in the Bath-chair fashion.
The screw connected with the steering rod has a trick of working loose, and, if the lock-nut drops off, the screw may become so loose as to follow. A hairpin twisted in the hole and round, forms a very good temporary connection.
A broken crank is a very tiresome and awkward accident. The cause is either a flaw in the metal or the crank being of insufficient strength. A smart snap is generally the only warning given, and the crank “yields” all round as though made of putty. A crank does not, as a rule, break clean through unless in very faulty iron. It begins to open and “gape,” and finally breaks. The rider can do nothing except tie up the fracture (if not occurring at one of the crank axles) in splints with string, and then inquire for the nearest station, or trundle the machine to the nearest smith, and let him weld it together, in the case of the crank being solid. It often happens that country smiths are only used to rough work. It must, therefore, be impressed upon them most strenuously, that rule-of-thumb will not do. The following method of mending a solid crank has been given by a skilful repairer:—
The broken crank axle, when taken out, should be laid upon a board or piece of stout paper; then, ends being joined at the fracture, the smith should carefully mark round with a pencil the exact size, and, referring to his plan, he will see and mark the amount he may allow to weld, so that the thickness may be the same, and also the throw, and that the two projections fitting into the bearings are straight and level with each other.