Hollow cranks are mended by putting a piece of iron inside, riveting and brazing.
For a broken axle, the best remedy is to get the machine along as well as possible on one driving wheel and the steerer, getting it either carted or carried to the nearest station, from which, if no qualified repairer is near at hand, it can be sent to the maker to be fitted with a new one. It may be comforting to know that, unless in a very light machine, broken axles occur in the proportion of one in a thousand.
Very unpleasant and very common among lady riders is the accident called “being wound up” in the driving chain. Insufficient dress guard is one reason; a full skirt and a gusty day are others. Such misfortunes are to be prevented by fitting a piece of tanned cord netting at the side from the framework to the tilt rod stay, if it is on the same side as the chain, which most of them are. This netting is laced on with fine waterproof twine, both of which can be obtained of Unite, in Edgware Road. The cost altogether of a yard of netting is 2d., and whipcord 2d. more. The netting is impervious to wet, can hardly be seen when riding, and is easily attached, making no noise or rattle. Wire netting rattles dreadfully, and is not nearly as good, whilst 20 times more expensive.
Most bad accidents are due to recklessness. An opinion is common amongst people that to ride a tricycle is the simplest thing in the world, and that, as the machine will stand alone and is tolerably safe when going slowly, no care is requisite in descending hills. It is easy to distinguish between an old rider and a novice in going down a steep hill. The experienced rider, knowing the danger, goes with feet on the pedals and machine well in hand, both braking and back-pedalling until the bottom of the hill is well in view, when she indulges in a “fly,” still keeping under control, although going fast.
The novice, not knowing how dangerous it is to lose control, comes down erratically—in many cases quite unable to stop—and if she does manage to, by means of a strong brake, strains the machine, and does damage that way. Most of the notoriously dangerous hills in England have danger boards erected by the National Cyclists’ Union—in the form of small painted iron plates on a post, bearing the following: “Notice to Cyclists.—This hill is dangerous.” Accidents may be avoided by “braking” and back-pedalling down the steepest part until well in sight of the bottom of the hill. If the hand brake of a front steerer get oily it fails to check the machine properly. The remedy for this is to dust powdered resin over the drum, which dries up the oil, but makes the brake almost too powerful; therefore, after applying resin, it should be used with caution. If a machine from any cause—such as the brake refusing to act, or being out of order—runs away down-hill, the only thing is to try to keep clear of ruts, and avoid swerving by keeping a firm hand on the steering and a cool head. If presence of mind is once lost, a bad accident is a foregone conclusion. On the other hand, a cool rider may manage to guide her machine safely to the bottom.
A common consequence of a run-away is a “buckled wheel.” This looks a most alarming accident, but can be rectified in a few minutes if the wheel is well built. The wheel assumes the form of an erratic 8, the spokes are bulging, loose, and twisted.
To set matters right, the rider should place her knee on the bow of the hub, and, putting one foot on the rim at the bottom, with the two hands take hold of the rim furthest from her inwards. Pulling at these simultaneously, and pressing with the knee the rim with a snap will resume its round form, and a little adjustment with the spoke-tightener of such spokes as are loose completes the operation.
Loose tyres can hardly be called an accident in themselves, but as causes of such they demand attention. If they become loose, a gas jet should be held under the rim until the cement begins to bubble and ooze out between the rim and the rubber. The tyre should be pressed into place and tied firmly with string, and left like that for 12 hours to set. If no cement remains in the rim, some of Rockhill’s, or, if nothing better can be obtained, Prout’s elastic glue, should be melted in an iron spoon and run into the felloes. Singer’s tyre heater is a good one to use where gas is to be had; but if in the country, where it is not available, recourse must be had to a blacksmith, who should be persuaded to heat relays of red-hot irons, which are held under the rim, as in the case of gas. If a tyre comes loose suddenly, it may be firmly fastened by tying it to the iron felloe with thin string at every 2 in. Each tie should be quite distinct from the others, and the string drawn so tightly as to sink into the indiarubber tyre. A machine will run many scores of miles before any of these strings is cut, and then they can be easily replaced. (F. J. Erskine, Field.)
Supplementary Literature.
‘Revised Laws of Lawn Tennis.’ London. 6d.