The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide. / Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.

by Unknown

BY FREDERICK LAUGENBECK.

First, place the foot to be measured upon a sheet of white paper. Mark around the foot with a long pencil, being careful to hold it in a perpendicular position. Next, take the circumference across the ball and instep with a tape measure. Next measure the heel and calf.

For calf boots, the boot must be one-fourth of an inch wider on the heel than the foot, and the ankle one-fourth of an inch less than the heel measure.

CALF-LIKE MEASURE OF THE LEG.—LAST MEASURE.

The last must be one and one-half of a size longer than the foot, and as wide as the widest part of the foot.

For stubb toes, the last should be one size longer.

Proper allowance should be made for corns. Place a round knob made of leather, or any other suitable substance, on the last, just the size of the corn, or enlargement, on one or both sides of the last, according to circumstances.

The instep must be one-eighth of an inch less than measure.

For a sound, healthy foot, make the last one-fourth of an inch less on the ball, and three-eighths of an inch less on the instep.

Patent leather boots, around the ankle must be full with the measure as the stitches contract.