Fig. 3
As our antlered game, like the moose, the Virginia deer, the caribou, and the elk, are held in higher esteem than other American big-game animals, a few practical hints on where to sight, may serve to bring better luck to the sportsman who has yet to bring in his first head. The shoulder shot, shown in the [rectangular sketch] at S, T and U, is taken by the experienced hunter whenever possible, in preference to any other. It is the object of this shot to break the shoulder joint, and thus prevent use of the forelegs. It is a vital shot, also, because there is a good chance of the bullet passing through either the heart or lungs, which will drop the game in its tracks. This is the most effective of all shots, and as the hunter more often draws a bead while the game is running away, the shoulder shot is used more than any other. The exact spot, at which the aim should be taken, depends upon the distance of the animal, and its rate of movement. If on the run and the range of 100 yd. or more, the sight should be taken at the point S. If less than this distance, sight at T, and, if the animal is standing still, take deliberate aim at U, within the dotted inclosure. This area represents what big-game hunters call the vital zone, and a soft-nose bullet, placed anywhere within this spot, will be certain to stop the game, often dropping it on the spot. It is possible to land a bullet in a vital spot at distances up to 500 yd. with a high-power rifle, but it is very likely that the game will be wounded only, and may escape to die a lingering death. In taking long shots at big game on the run, the sight should be taken well forward and a trifle higher than the marks given, since the hunter must allow for the trajectory of his arm and the time the bullet takes to reach its mark.
The front shot, shown at the right, has as its object to hit the heart or lungs. It is a useful shot, and the sight is taken at the cross indication on the breast. The head shot, shown in the circle, is a brain shot, and is used only by the experienced hunter, when it is difficult to land a shoulder or front shot. As the brain is well up to the top of the head, the best point of aim is shown at V, midway between the eyes and a trifle higher than their centers. This shot is most effective when the hunter stands a trifle above the game, or shoots when the game is charging head down. If on a level, aim just above the eye, and if close to the game, land the bullet just below the eye. The ear shot, as indicated by the cross, is taken at close quarters, and the point to sight for is the inside of the ear at its base.
A good rifle will give a lifetime of service, and the sportsman should take care of it. The best time to clean a firearm of any kind is as soon after shooting as possible, for the powder residue is then fresh and moist, and is more easily and quickly removed. Black powder can be removed with a wet rag, but smokeless powder not only leaves a little powder residue, but also a film of gummy residue on the steel which is not apparent to the eye. Common washing soda, dissolved in water to make a saturated solution, is used to remove it. Any of the ready-prepared nitro solvents are good for cleaning the rifle. A good way to clean a rifle is to use strips of cotton flannel, cut into squares of such size that they will fit snugly, but may be easily pushed through the barrel on the head of the metal cleaning rod. Always clean a rifle from the breech, if possible, by resting the muzzle on a few folded papers on the floor. Push a couple of dry wipers down to the floor to remove the carbon residue. Then saturate another square of cloth with the nitro solvent, and carefully swab out the barrel, turning the rod so that it will follow the spiral rifling. Repeat the operation two or three times; then take a clean wiper, moistened with the solvent, and repeat until the barrel is well lubricated with the cleaning fluid. The barrel should be well oiled with any good, thick oil, or liquid vaseline. The lock mechanism of the arm should be kept clean and very lightly lubricated with any good thin oil, and the gunstock polished with linseed oil.
Camera for Taking Pictures from a Kite
By CHARLES I. REID
When watching a kite flying at a considerable height one frequently wonders how the landscape appears from such a viewpoint as would be possible from a kite. Few of us can have the experience of a ride in an aeroplane, but it is quite possible to obtain a view from the kite, by proxy as it were, through the use of a kite camera. A kite of large dimensions would be necessary to carry an ordinary camera taking pictures of fair size, hence it is necessary to devise one of lighter construction, so that a kite of moderate size may carry it to a height of several hundred feet. Such a camera is shown in the [illustration] attached to a box kite. Details of construction are shown in the smaller [sketches].
A camera consists, briefly, of a light-proof box, with a lens at one end and a sensitive plate or film at the other. For a kite camera, a single achromatic lens will suit the purpose. Such a lens is not expensive and may be taken from a small camera. It must be obtained before the camera is begun, since the size of the latter is dependent upon the focal length of the lens and the size of the picture to be made. A camera taking pictures 2 in. square is satisfactory for kite photography, and if it is desired to enlarge the pictures, this may be done in the usual manner.
The box of the camera is made cone-shaped in order to reduce the weight and air resistance. Its sides are of light-weight, stiff cardboard, reinforced at the corners to insure that no light will enter. The back of the camera is a tight-fitting cover of cardboard, having the same measurements as the picture to be taken. The lens is fitted to an intermediate partition, as shown in the sketch. It is necessary to determine the focal length of the lens and to set it at a distance from the inner side of the cardboard back of the camera—the film surface—so that it will focus properly for photographing distant objects.
The Kite Camera Offers a Diversion in Photography, and Has Practical and Commercial Uses as Well. The Camera Shown Is of Light Weight, Simple Construction, and Produces Film Exposures Two Inches Square. A Sectional View of Its Construction is Given at the Left, and the Details of the Shutter Device at the Right