The front is provided with a circular opening of a size large enough not to obstruct the view of the lens. A shutter made of thin pressboard is fitted over the opening, as shown in the sketch at the right. A slit is cut in the shutter through which light is admitted in making the exposure as the shutter is drawn back. The size and width of the slit regulates the exposure, and a few trials must be made to determine the most suitable speed of exposure for the lens used. The shutter is pivoted at its lower end and drawn back by a rubber band. A string, to which a time fuse is attached, controls the releasing of the shutter to make the exposure. The string holds the shutter closed against the pull of the rubber band until the fuse burns up to the string, severing it. The fuse must be long enough to enable the kite to attain a suitable height before the string is burned. When the shutter has been set, and the fuse attached ready for lighting, the camera may be taken into the dark room for loading. A piece of film, cut to the proper size, is placed carefully into the light-proof sliding cover, as with a film pack, the sensitive side, of course, being placed nearest the lens.
The camera is attached to the kite securely at the middle, as shown, so that when the kite is in flight a view nearly straight down will be obtained. When all is in readiness the fuse is lighted and the kite started on its flight. By timing experimental flights, the required length of fuse may be determined in order to permit the kite to attain the desired height at the time of exposure.
The kite used for taking pictures from the air should be large enough to carry the kite easily. One of the box type illustrated is satisfactory, although other types may be used. A kite camera for the amateur has great possibilities for experimentation, but requires care in construction and a reasonable knowledge of photography. To the person willing to master the details, kite photography offers a pleasurable diversion as well as practical uses in photographing plots of ground, groups of buildings, manufacturing plants, and other subjects which cannot be photographed by other methods.
How to Make a Canteen
Two sheet-metal plates that are well nickelplated may be joined and provided with a suitable opening, to form a useful canteen for the camper or hiker. The illustration shows such a convenience fitted with a shoulder strap ready for use.
It was made as follows: Two good-quality pie plates were soldered at their edges to form a water-tight container. An opening was cut into the edge and a screw cap, taken from a metal-polish can, was fitted carefully and soldered over the opening. A wire was soldered at each side of the screw cap, providing loops for the snap buckles of the shoulder straps.—J. R. Townsend, Itasca, Texas.
Mixing Stick That Breaks Up Lumps
In mixing paint, or paste, it is desirable that all lumps be broken up quickly, and that the forming of lumps be prevented as much as possible. A mixing stick that will aid in this process is made as follows: Procure a stick of wood, that will take nails without cracking, and cut it about 1 in. square and 12 in. long. On one side, beginning ¹⁄₂ in. from the end, drive five 8-penny finishing nails, 1 in. apart. On the next side, repeat the process, beginning the nails 1 in. from the end. Place similar nails on the other two sides, spacing them to offset those on the other sides. The nails cause a thorough mixing of the paste, or paint, prevent the forming of lumps of any considerable size, and by careful stirring will break up all lumps in the mixture.—Edwin R. Mason, Danville, Ill.