Setting Up the Canoe
Having made all the material ready, the work of setting up the canoe may begin, and as it is built upside down, place the backbone on boxes, about 1 ft. or more above the floor, and place the molds in the numbered places on the backbone, allowing the backbone to rest upon the bottom of the mortises cut in the top of the molds. Study [Figs. 8] and [9] before beginning the work of setting up the hull.
True up the molds with a square and fasten them firmly by toenailing them to the backbone. Put the keelson in place, allowing it to fit down in the mortises cut in the molds to receive it. Take particular care that the stems are a good fit with the angle of the backbone at the ends, then fasten by nailing through the top edge of the mold into the stems. As shown in the stem-mold drawing, [Fig. 6], the splice where the stem fits the keelson must be cut out after it is bent into place. This is easily done by marking around the outside edge of the stem and then beveling from the inside on each side. The outer edge is left about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and the bevel runs out to the width of the keel at the lower end.
The gunwales are next put on at the sheer line, and fastened to the molds and stems, leaving sufficient of the nails exposed to make them easily withdrawn later on. The four ribbands are then put on each side, at equal distances apart, between the gunwale and keel, or at 5-in. centers, measuring from the keel up toward the gunwale. Fasten the ribbands by driving 1¹⁄₄-in. brads through them into the mold. Measure off the keel for the ribs, which should be put on 3 in. apart, measuring from the centers. The ribs are fastened to the outside of the keelson and are curved under the ribbands. Fasten each rib to the keel by means of two ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, then spring them into place and fasten to the gunwales. Put in all the ribs in the same way, spacing them so that a rib will be placed over each mold. When all the ribs are put in, remove the ribbands, and begin planking the hull.
Planking the Canoe
As a canoe is planked with ¹⁄₈-in. cedar it is easily bent to the curve of the ribs while cold, thus doing away with the trouble of steaming. Unlike heavier-planked craft the planking is not rabbeted at the stem but is nailed to the beveled surface. For strength and to give a perfectly smooth skin on which to lay the canvas, it is advisable to run the planking the full length from stem to stem. Begin by putting on the garboard strake, which is the bottom plank at the keel. Punch holes in the plank with an awl, not directly in line, but staggered from side to side along the ribs. This will prevent the possibility of splitting. Drive in the copper clout nails while the plank is kept in place with a clamp to facilitate the work. Hold a clinch iron, or any handy piece of iron, inside and clinch the nails so that the ends are well imbedded in the rib on the inside. It is a simple matter to fit each plank in place, because they are merely a close fit at the edge, butted together without beveling. The number of planks required will depend upon the width, and while wider strips may be used, planking cut to the width of 3 in. is generally employed. In any case the top plank or sheer strake should be level with the gunwale from one stem to the other. When the hull is completely planked, cut off the ends of the planking to the curve of the stems and gunwales. The backbone and molds may now be taken out by sawing the backbone in two. Tack a couple of strips across the gunwales to keep the hull from sagging out of shape, then drive the nails over the sections the molds occupied, since these forms prevented doing this work before.
Seat Risings and Seats
The seat risings are simply straight sticks, ¹⁄₂ in. square, and are fastened on the inside for the seats to rest upon. They are about 4 in. below the gunwale. Oak or ash is the best material, and the length is 14 ft. To fasten in place, first bore a small hole and then nail through the planking and ribs, and clinch on the inside of the rising.
Fig. 10
The Seat Frame may be Caned, or a Canvas Seat Tacked On, as Preferred