LXVIII
Julian Street
SOLE Á LA MARGUERY AND DUCK WITH ORANGES
I have two favorite dishes: both being examples of the French cuisine at its highest.
One is “Sole à la Marguery” (which can be made with flounder, also) and was originated by old Monsieur Marguery at his famous restaurant in Paris. It has a sauce which has a wine base and which contains shrimps and small oysters.
Sole à la Marguery
Lay your sole in a buttered platter, add about a glassful of white wine, season and poach:
I. E. Let boil for about fifteen minutes and then take the juice out, mix with it a yolk of a raw egg, about two ounces of sweet butter. Beat slowly so as to get it thick, something like a hollandaise; add a few shrimps, oysters, mussels, and a few heads of mushrooms, cook the sole with it, glaze in a salamande two or three minutes and serve.
Another is duck cooked with oranges. I know how to ask for it at the St. Regis and the Brevoort, but am not sure of the spelling. It sounds like Duck “Bigarade.” They do it well at the Brevoort. If potatoes are served with either of these dishes they should be potatoes gaufrettes—on a separate plate.
Duck Bigarade
To Roast: Select a young and very tender duck, prepare and truss it for roasting. It should be roasted on the spit or in the oven for fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to its size and the heat of the fire.