The illustration on page 89 represents, on a scale a quarter of an inch to the foot, Fig. 1, a section, with masts and sails; Fig. 2 a bird’s-eye view of the deck. The woodcuts at pages 91, 93 represent, on a scale of an inch to the foot, Figs. 3 and 4, cross sections at the beam and at the stretcher; Figs 9, 10, and 11, the backboard and the apron; the rest of the drawings showing particular portions more minutely. The principal dimensions are:—Length over all, A S, 14 feet; from stem to beam, B, 7 feet 6 inches; beam, outside (6 inches abaft midships), 26 inches; depth from top of deck at C, fore end of the well, to upper surface of keel, 11 inches; keel, depth, outside, 1 inch, with an iron band along its whole length, 3/8 inch wide; camber, 1 inch; depth at gunwale, 8½ inches. The upper streak is of mahogany, and quite vertical at the beam, where its depth is 3 inches. The garboard streaks, and the next on each side are strong, while the next two on each side are light, as it is found that they are less exposed than the others, particularly in a canoe where all these lower streaks are of oak. The stem and stern posts project over deck, the canoe, if turned over, will rest on the upper edge of the combing, round the well, 1/8 inch deep, projecting ½ inch, of steamed oak, curved at the corners, and adding, by its angular position, very much to the strength of the deck about the well. The well is 32 inches from C to D, and 20 inches from E to F, so placed that D M is 2 feet, and thus the beam of the boat being aft of the midships the weight of the luggage G, and of the masts and sails stowed forward, brings the boat to nearly an even keel. The additional basket of cooking-things at I (Fig. 2) brings her a little by the stern. For a boat without luggage the beam should be 1 foot abaft midships to secure an even keel.
Scale of Figs 1 & 2. ¼ of an inch to the foot.
The deck is supported on four carlines forward and three aft, the latter portion being thus more strengthened, because, in some cases, it is required to support the weight of the canoeist sitting on the deck with his legs in the water. Each carline has a piece cut out of its end (see Fig. 6), so that the water inside may run along to the beam when the canoe is canted to sponge it out. The after edge of the carline at C is bevelled off (Fig. 5 in section), so as not to catch the shins of your legs. All the carlines are narrow and deep, to economize strength, and the deck is screwed to them with brass screws, so that it might be removed for internal repairs. A flat piece is inserted under the deck at the mast-hole H, which is also furnished with a flanged brass ring. The deck is so arched as to enable the feet to rest comfortably on the broad stretcher J (Fig. 4), the centre of it being cut down in a curve in order that the mast and sails, rolled together, may rest there when there is no luggage, and be kept under the deck, but above any wet on the floor. When there is luggage (as in this voyage) I usually put the mast and sails under the after deck. The cedar deck round the well at E F is firmly secured by knee-pieces, and the boat may thus be lifted up by any part, and may be sat upon in any position, without injury. The luggage for three months, weighing 9½ lbs., is carried in a black leather-cloth bag, 1 foot by 1 foot by 5 inches deep (G, Figs. 1 and 2).
A water-tight compartment may be made by an after bulkhead, with a lid to open, so as to allow the air to circulate when on shore.
The floor-boards, about 2 feet long, rest on the timbers until, at the part below C (Fig. 2), they end at P P (Fig. 7), in notched grooves, which fit into short oak pieces M N, ¼ inch thick, sloping forwards on each side of the keel O. Their ends rest on the garboard streaks, and so lower the heels nearly 1 inch below the level of the floor-board on the top of the timbers. The canoeist sits on the floor-boards, I prefer this to any cushion or mat whatever; but if a mat or cushion be used, it should be firmly fixed, especially in rough water. The canoeist’s knees touch the combing and the apron boards, while his heels touch the keel. Thus the dotted lines in Fig. 1, from the stretcher to the deck, show how the shin-bones are supported in comfort, enabling the paddler to sit for hours together without straining. But comfort is additionally secured by my new kind of backboard, shown in Figs. 8 and 9, in section and elevation. This consists of two strips of oak, 18 inches long, 2½ inches wide, and united by a cross piece at Y, and another at X, the latter being grooved (Fig. 8) so as to rest on the top of the combing, and to oscillate with the movement of the canoeist’s back, which is thus supported on both sides along the muscles, while the spine is untouched between the strips.
Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6
The dotted line U (Fig. 8) is a strong cord passed round all (through a hole in the deck or two eyes), and this serves to keep the backboard in general upright, while it is free to vibrate, or, when on shore, to be closed down flat on deck or to be removed entirely in a moment by unloosing the cord. The use of this backboard is a leading feature of the canoe, and adds very much indeed to the canoeist’s comfort, and, therefore, to his efficiency. The length and width of the oaken strips, and the width of the interval between them, ought to be carefully adjusted to the size and “build” of the canoeist, just as a saddle ought to fit a horse and its rider too.
The paddle is 7 feet long, flat-bladed, with a breadth of 6 inches in each palm, which is copper-banded, and made of the best spruce fir, the weight being little over 2 lbs. The spoon-shaped blade is better for speed, and a longer paddle is suitable for a racing-boat, but for a travelling canoe, where long paddling, occasional sailing, and frequent “shoving,” require the instrument to combine lightness, straight edge, handiness, and strength, it is found that a short paddle is best for the varied work of a protracted voyage. Leather cups have been usually employed on the wrists of the paddle to catch the dripping water, but round india-rubber rings look much better and answer every purpose, if placed just above the points where the paddle dips into the water in an ordinary stroke. These rings may be had for twopence, and can be slipped on over the broad blade. If necessary, two are used on each side, and they bear rough usage well, while if they strike the cedar deck, no injury is done to it.