Three Hundred Things a Bright Boy Can Do

by Unknown

After numerous experiments, the following very simple plan has been devised for a waterproof apron, and its application at once removes one of the chief objections to canoes in rough water, as heretofore constructed. It is necessary to have a covering for the well which shall effectually exclude the water, and yet be so attached as not to hamper the canoeist in case of an upset, or when he desires to get out of the boat in a more legitimate manner. These desiderata are completely secured by the new apron, which is not permanently attached in any manner to the boat, but is formed as follows:-A piece of light wood, of the form in Fig. 10, 2 feet long and 3 inches deep at the deepest part, is placed along each side of the deck vertically, so as just to rest against the outside of each knee of the canoeist, and then a piece of macintosh cloth (drab colour is best) is tightly nailed along and over these, so as to form an apron, supported at each side on Z (Fig. 11), and sloping from the highest part forwards down to the deck in front of the combing, over which its edge projects 1 inch, and then lies flat. The other or after end is so cut and formed as to fit the body neatly, and the ends may be tucked in behind, or, when the waves are very rough, they should be secured outside the backboard by a string with a knot. When this apron is so applied, and the knees are in position, their pressure keeps the whole apron steady, and the splash of small waves is not enough to move it. In rough water I place a string across the end and round two screw nails on the deck; or an india-rubber cord run through the hemmed end, but best of all is a strip of wood bent across the deck with its ends under two screws or chocks.

Fig. 14, Fig. 9, Fig. 8, Fig. 7, Fig. 11, Fig. 10

A button-hole at the highest point of the apron allows it to be supported on the waistcoat. When you have to get out on shore, or when sailing, it is usually best to stow the apron away, so that the legs may be turned into any desired position of ease. The apron I used in this tour had been perfectly fitted by myself to me and the boat. Several others, a little like it (very little!), roughly made for other canoes, have, as might be expected, failed to give satisfaction.

One important advantage of a canoe is the capacity for sailing without altering the canoeist’s seat; and we shall now describe the mast and sails found by experience to be most convenient, after three masts had been broken and eight sets of sails had more or less failed. The mast is 1¾ inches thick (tapering), and 5 feet 6 inches long, of which the part above deck is 4 feet 9 inches. The lug-sail K (Fig. 1), has a yard and a boom, each 4 feet 9 inches long, so that when furled the end of the boom and mast come together. The fore-leach is 2 feet long, and the after-leach 6 feet 6 inches, giving an area of about 15 square feet. The yard and boom are of bamboo, and the yard passes into a broad hem on the sail-head, while the halyard is rove aloft through a small boxwood block ¾ inch long, and with a brass sheave, and through another (a brass blind pulley) well fastened on the side of the mast near the deck, so that the sail can be lowered and hoisted readily. The lower joint of a fishing-rod, 4 feet 9 inches long, is a spare boom. The tack end of the boom is made fast to the mast by a flat piece of leather, lashed to its upper part and to the mast, and so as to be free to swing in every direction; after many other plans had failed this was quite successful, and lasted through the whole voyage. No hole is made in the mast, and no nail or screw driven into it, for these are causes of weakness. Two cord loops, about 6 inches apart, near the mast-head, support the flagstaff, of bamboo-cane 2 feet long, and with a silk flag 7 inches by 9 inches. When the mast is not used this flagstaff is detached and placed in the mast-hole, which it fits by a button 2 inches wide, permanently fixed on the staff, the lower end of which rests in the mast-step. The halyard and sheet should be of woven cord, which does not untwist, and is soft to handle in the wet. The sheet when not in hand may be belayed round a cleat on deck on either side of the apron, where it is highest, and thus these cleats are protected from the paddle.

For the sake of convenience the mast is stepped so far forward as to allow the boom to swing past the canoeist’s breast when the sail is jibbed or brought over. This also allows the luggage-bag to be between the stretcher and the mast. Thus the mast-hole H is at 3 feet 6 inches distance from the stem. The mast-step is a simple wedge-like piece of oak (see R, Fig. 14), made fast to the keel, and abutting on the garboard streak on each side, with a square hole in it for the foot of the mast. It may be thought that the mast is thus stepped too far forward, but the importance of having the sail free to swing, without lying against the canoeist’s body, or getting entangled with his paddle, which is used in steering, is so great, that some sacrifice must be made to secure this point. However, it is found that the boat sails very well on a wind with this sail, if the breeze is strong; and in light breezes it is only expedient to sail with the wind well aft, when the jib can also be used. A canoe must have a strong, light, flexible painter, suitable for constant use, because a great deal has to be done by its means in towing on dull water, guiding the boat while wading down shallows or beside falls, lowering into lochs, hauling her over hedges, walls, locks, banks, and even houses; and raising or lowering her (with luggage in) to and from steamboats. The “Alpine Club” rope, used in the new Rob Roy, was found to be hard and “kinky” when wet, and the softer rope used in the old Rob Roy was far better. Another kind of brown-tanned rope has been recommended. The painter should not be longer than twice the length of the boat. Each end is whipped with wax-end, which sort of fine twine is also invaluable for all the other fastenings, as it never slips. The painter passes through a hole in the stem, and another in the stern-post, and is drawn tight to lie on deck in the lines AY and SY, Fig. 2; the slack of about four feet is belayed round the windward cleat and coiled outside, so that it may be seized instantly when you go ashore, or have to jump out to save a smash or an overset in a dangerous place. This mode of fixing and belaying the painter I adopted after numerous trials of other plans, and it is found to be far the best.

The jib is a triangle of 3 feet hoist and 3 feet foot, the fore-leach fast by a loop, passing under the painter and over the stem; the head is fixed by a loop over the mast-head, and under the flagstaff button. Thus the jib can be struck while the canoeist remains in the boat, by pushing off these two loops with his paddle. To set the jib, it is best to land. This is much more generally convenient than to have jib-tackle on the mast. (I have now discarded the jib entirely.) The sails are of calico, without any seam. This lasts quite well enough, dries speedily, and sets well, too, provided that care is taken to have it cut out with the selvage along the after-leach, and not along any of the other sides. Inattention to this last direction simply ruins sails; and it cannot be too often repeated that the success of the six Rob Roy voyages could not be expected if great care had not been devoted to all these details.

A good travelling canoe costing £15 ought to last a long time, for it is not racked and pulled in pieces at every stroke, as a rowing-boat is.

The Paddle.—It has been said that the use of a canoe paddle must contract the chest, but this is certainly a mistake. If indeed, you merely dapple each blade of the paddle in the water without taking the full length of the stroke the shoulders are not thrown back, and the effect will be injurious; but exactly the same is true if you scull or row with a short jerky stroke. In a proper use of the paddle the arms ought to be in turn fully extended, and then brought well back, so that the elbow grazes the side, and the chest is then well plied in both directions. In very shallow water the paddle should be clasped lightly (turning the thumbs upwards then), so that if it strikes the bottom or a rock the hand will yield and not the blade be broken. The distance between the hands should be that of the breadth of the chest. One can tell a tyro in a moment by seeing him with his hands two feet apart, and therefore with a shortened stroke or too long a paddle. Great caution should be used when placing the blade in advance to meet a rock, or even a gravel bank, otherwise it gets jammed in the rock or gravel, or the boat overrides it. It is better in such a case to retard the speed rather by dragging the paddle (tenderly), and always with its flat side downwards, so that the edge does not get nipped.

For long cruises lightness is the first necessity. An ounce more or less makes a great difference when you have to carry it with outstretched arms all day. My paddle weighs two pounds. A swivel crutch on deck on the quarter is used sometimes. In my Shetland cruise I used a single paddle blade and steered by my feet acting on a light rudder by two cords. This plan has many advantages for a sailing cruise and general work, but it is not good for rapids.