In this lesson is explained how to repair and reline coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, Tuxedos, Dress Coats, Vests, Prince Alberts, also Ladies' Jackets and Coats. How to put new Silk facings on coats. How to repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom. How to put velvet collars on coats. The use of basting thread. How to prevent trousers bagging at the knee. How to prepare button holes for working. How to make button holes. Darning a three-cornered tear. Hems and felling same. Back stitching.
INSTRUCTIONS IN REPAIRING.
To reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and women. When new lining is required in coats, rip out the old lining, starting to rip the sleeve lining, first around top or sleeve head, then at the bottom or cuff. Now remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth and use as a pattern for the new, cutting new lining out exactly same size as the pattern, down the seams, but for convenience in working, allow two seams longer at the bottom and two seams longer at the top. Place one top and one bottom sleeve lining together, Baste seams, having the two right sides of lining together, and seam on machine, (or one may sew the seams on the machine without basting, this may be done with a little practice), press seams open on small end of press-jack, baste top of sleeve lining in; all around, one-quarter of an inch, now turn right sleeve inside out and baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the back seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve seam of coat, baste with long loose stitches, start basting two inches below top of sleeve, to two inches within the bottom, being careful not to get lining in too short (take one quarter inch seam when sewing on machine), as this will cause sleeve to draw up, and hang in wrinkles, now fasten the front arm seams same as back, so that each seam will come directly on top of the sleeve seam. Turn sleeve right side out, and mark with chalk on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve seams at top of sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve seams of garment, and baste lining all around until one becomes familiar with the work.
Now see that the lining is sufficiently long; cut lining off even with the bottom of the cuff, and baste sleeve lining up two inches from the bottom. Then with needle and silk fell around both sleeves, top and bottom. Turn sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches.
Rip out the body lining, starting at the right facing, and rip down and around the pocket to one inch above and one inch below the pocket across bottom, up side seam, and across shoulder. Then remove lining, and iron out smooth, to use as a pattern, for new lining as before, leaving the left side of the lining in as a guide to the beginner as to how the lining should be placed. Then cut the new lining for the right side one half inch larger all around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking, and also for convenience while working. Then baste lining in right side, being careful not to put lining in too tight. Rather have it too long, but not so long that it hangs below the bottom of garment. Coats will not hang well with tight or short lining. Turn edge of lining in down front, and across bottom with basting, and fasten lining to side seam of forepart with long loose basting stitches. Then rip lining out of left side and iron out smoothly for a pattern, cut and baste in new lining on left side the same as explained for the right. Now cut the back lining double and seam down back centre seam, basting one inch plait for ease, then press to one side, and baste in back, and turn all edges in, down side seams, across bottom and shoulders, and back of neck. Now fasten lining all around arm hole to the seam, thereby holding lining in place, so as not to allow it to come loose. Cut lining off even with seam all around arm hole, then baste sleeve lining around.
Cut lining to back of pocket, and at back end, cut lining in a trifle to allow working, and for turning in around the pocket, and fell lining in all around the pocket mouth, and proceed to fell the lining, doing the same with the left side. Now finish felling the entire coat. Remove basting stitches, and finish garment in the usual way.
Ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way, also all kinds of men's coats and overcoats included.
When new silk facings are required for coats, remove the old facing, and use it as a pattern for the new, and when cutting the new facing, allow three quarters of an inch all around for convenience, while working. Baste new silk facing on very neat, and take time to do good work. When basting is completed, fell all around with fine silk, being careful not to draw the stitches tight, nor to contract the edge.
Try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will look better than the old one did when new. This will bring you customers. The price to charge for such work is by the hour and for material used.