Rip old lining and back out of right side, and iron out smooth for a pattern.
Now cut forepart lining one half inch larger all around and baste in forepart lining, observing how the left is put in. Baste edges of lining in, down facing, across bottom and around arm hole, (when one becomes familiar the right sides of lining may be placed to that of the foreparts and sewed around the armholes by machine, thereby saving the felling by hand).
Now rip left inside lining out and replace it with new lining, same as the right. Fell all around, then iron the back lining out smooth for a pattern, cutting it exactly the same size as the old one, and mark with chalk, where seam was sewn before. Cut inside lining the same size, and seam back seams on the machine, and press open (or one may stitch to one side), place right sides together to sew; smooth with iron, and baste the right forepart, side seam to that of the back lining, also to the shoulder. Baste left side the same way. Now baste the inside lining to inside of vest. This will leave an opening at the top of neck and bottom. Now baste, placing both back seams together, and baste each way to the side seams. This will leave an opening, now only at the neck, thereby forming a pocket, or bag for the vest, as it were. Sew with machine, in same seam as at first, down side seam, across shoulder, and bottom, and around arm holes, notch lining around back arm hole. Remove basting, and turn vest right side out at the neck. Baste lining even around bottom and arm hole. Now baste lining across back of neck, inside and out, then fell entire lining.
When basting the shoulders of vest, have the back lining one quarter of an inch full in the hollow of front of shoulder, to allow for stretching, and to form a concave.
Should vests require to be made larger, when one has the lining out, all one has to do, is to mark with chalk or thread, the amount to be made larger, adding amount from the old seam on back, and baste forepart side seams to the mark to be made larger. If new pockets are required, and one is not familiar with the work, remove the pocket very carefully, observing every detail as to how it should be put together. Iron out smooth and cut new pocket, seam around, all but mouth, and place inside of pocket, and turn edges in all around top or mouth of pocket, and fell with silk same color as pocket (never remove welt from pocket when only new pockets are required). Should the buttonholes need repairing, repair them. Also see that the buttons are sewed on firm. Darn all holes, and clean and allow to dry before new lining is placed.
NEW WAIST BAND LINING IN TROUSERS.
Remove old one, and iron out smooth and use for pattern. Cut new one out and baste in and fell around tops and down sides, and fasten at pockets to hold in place. If new buttons are required, sew them on before new lining is placed, so as not to sew through the lining. Repair trousers where needed.
To repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom run a basting thread around both sleeves five inches from the bottom of cuff, to hold lining in place, then rip sleeve lining around the bottom, unfasten the turn up of sleeve from the wigan, (darn sleeve edge if necessary when it is worn through), now baste up firmly one eighth of an inch, or as much more as the sleeve will allow and still be of sufficient length, (run basting one-quarter inch from bottom), fasten the turn up back to the wigan with basting (this basting is left in); now let sleeve lining come down, and if it is longer than to the end of cuff; cut off what comes below.
Then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches from the bottom of cuff with basting stitches, and fell lining with silk same color as the cloth or lining. Finish both sleeves the same. Remove basting, turn sleeves right side out; and press all around cuff as explained. When felling do not take long stitches, short ones look neater and are stronger and work will have a better appearance when finished. Should the sleeve be finished with stitching around the cuff, finish the same when repairing. Sew buttons on, this completes the repairing of sleeves at the bottom.