Remove old one, pick out old stitches in coat collar (the old stitches in velvet do not matter), place coat in a convenient manner on the press-jack and press collar and lapels into shape.
Cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each side than the pattern, or larger if necessary, and steam over an iron as explained. Stretch the edges a trifle on each side of velvet, being careful not to leave finger or thumb marks, and when cool, baste on coat, (silk thread should be used when basting velvet) in collar crease through velvet to hold in place.
Run another basting below crease and in the stand of collar, and another row of basting on leaf of collar close to the crease. Run another basting near the outside edge of collar leaf, and form a cushion at each end to allow ample room for ends to curl under (instead of up). See that the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short.
Now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the inside of coat collar, from end to end; and baste velvet over edge and all around leaf. Now cut velvet off even along the leaf, then fell inside of velvet to coat neck with silk to match; and herringbone velvet to leaf all around from end to end. Make a loop or hanger out of a straight piece of lining one-half inch wide, and turn all edges in and fold again and fell together; now sew to the coat as before, turning both edges of loop in, and tacking same through stand of collar. Remove all basting by cutting each stitch and pulling out from the right side, and with the nap of the velvet.
TO STEAM COLLAR.
Place iron on its side, cover with a piece of paper, over this lay a wet sponge cloth; then hold coat collar very close to steaming cloth (when one is familiar with the work they may allow the collar to rest on the steaming cloth for a minute), and move back and forth, allowing steam to come through the velvet. Then remove the collar and shape by hand, as when worn. Brush the nap gently to freshen while steaming, but with a very soft brush. Place on coat hanger, and allow to dry before wearing or delivering.
Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and corners, lightness of touch which holds the work without apparently touching it, will give to the finished garment a fresh look.
All these are important considerations.
When darning, great care must be taken to have the work finished up neatly, as darning and mending is an art, and like everything else, requires patience and practice.
Basting is only used in the preparation of work, to hold stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work together, while it is being stitched, as none of the basting is left in the finished garment. It is also used as a guide for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it will not leave a mark as would colored chalk. For ordinary work, basting stitches should be cut every few inches and drawn out.