Another style, destined to become a favorite from its richness of effect, is composed of several flounces of black guipure lace on a plain silk, deep blue, green, violet, brown, etc. The lower one, much deeper than those on the body of the mantle, falls over the dress, and that next to the row which forms the upper finish follows the curve of the shoulder. There is a space between each the width of the lace, and the several rows are headed by a box-plaited ruche of narrow black satin ribbon. Another style has bands of velvet ribbon an inch and a half in width, placed lengthwise on the scarf, the ends falling over the flounce of lace below. They are at a little distance apart, and each is encircled or edged by a narrow row of lace placed on flat, giving an effect at once elegant and novel, which it would be impossible to describe by words. These are a few of the leading spring styles; and others less costly, and in lighter fabrics, will be described in our extended notice of Mr. Brodie's establishment.
For those who do not order their mantillas and scarfs from the city direct, or who depend upon home manufacture, we would advise them to send to Demorest, 67 Canal Street, a few doors from Brodie's, for a set of patterns, and make them up according to the very accurate idea given by his styles. Here, again, we have several new varieties, the establishment also importing direct from Paris. One of very graceful shape has plaits at the back, as in the cloaks of the past season, with a tablier, or scarf front passing around and forming a deep collar on the shoulder. All the mantillas of the season, be it remarked, are very low and open, to display the collar, chemisette, etc. Another, of plainer scarf form, has a collar pointed in front, and a shoulder-piece coming below it has the effect of a double collar, ending in a bow of ribbon upon the shoulder. Still another, especially suited for a matron, has a slight fulness in the back, which is cut in the same piece as the front, coming into a very low pointed yoke on the shoulder; the collar corresponds in form and style. All Madame Demorest's patterns are made in tissue paper, fitting to the figure with the same grace as the real garment, and the trimmings are imitated with wonderful exactness.
For several new sleeves, we are also indebted to the same establishment, although the season is too early to admit of a judgment as to what will be the prevailing styles.
The bonnets are all very small, with open shallow brims and long low crowns. The stiff round crown has entirely gone out, and the ingenuity of the milliner is almost exhausted in draping this very necessary part of the bonnet in the most graceful way. Dress, or drawn bonnets are made of silk and crape, with a profusion of ribbon and lace; the bonnet itself seems of little consequence, so that the crown has a good shape, and the inside of the brim is gracefully decorated. Our fashionable ladies have a remarkable air of one-sidedness in this respect. For instance, a large bow of pink ribbon, set high up on the right, and a drooping spray of flowers on the left, connected by blonde or narrow laces of any kind. In wreaths running around the face, one side is made heavier than the other, and continued so to the forehead, or crosses it perhaps, instead of the old-fashioned well-balanced bouquets on each side, connected by narrow wreaths at the top. White is the prevailing color so far, with crape flowers in purple, with bright green leaves, as lilacs, heartsease, convolvulus, clusters of glycena, etc. etc. Delicate shades of pink, green, violet, and blue are also seen; lace, either blonde or less costly styles, is used in all.
Of ribbons for straw bonnets we have endless varieties of colors and patterns, brocaded, plaided, and plain. For ourselves, we are no fanciers of a ribbon that at a little distance looks like a strip of gay-colored chintz; a rich, thick satin, or Mantua, of one shade, is always more lady-like, and sufficient variety can be found in the different stripes, pearlings, etc. Gold brocaded ribbons—by brocaded, we mean a raised figure upon a plain ground—are more suitable for headdresses, or evening-dress, than the street. They will be entirely out of place on a straw bonnet; as much so as a rich gimp or velvet trimming on a chintz dress.
Silks, mousselines, and light spring cashmeres, indeed, any fabric of like thickness, will be made, as in the past winter, with basques, closed all around, over the hips, and without the rolling-collar at the bust, which was so long the style. The sleeves will be worn decidedly larger at the top, even when they are not intended for puffs or plaits. These open on the inside of the arm, and require to have the seam set very far forward, so as to have the opening fall away from the wrist. It is now the style to face a silk sleeve far up with white Florence, and box-plait a white satin ribbon about an inch in width around the inside edge, no matter as to what the dress itself is trimmed with: it gives a very stylish finish. Ribbons, galloons, and frills of the same are the favorite trimmings, which, in all cases save black, should match the shade of the dress exactly. Black silks are much worn this spring, with ribbon trimmings of deep purple, blue, green, and even crimson; the flounces are bound in this style, and the barque and sleeve trimmings correspond. Bows of ribbon, medium width, either flat or with flowing ends, close the basque and sleeve openings on most of the new silks, etc. Guipure lace is the richest and most costly of all, and comes of every shade and width, ranging from 75 cents to $5 per yard. The galloons are rich, light, and fanciful; satin and velvet, watered, pearled, etc.
Our May number, besides a more elaborate notice of Mr. Brodie's establishment, will contain many items of great interest in this department, as the openings are announced for an early day. FASHION.
TO EXTRACT ESSENCES FROM FLOWERS.—Procure a quantity of the petals of any flowers which have an agreeable fragrance, card thin layers of cotton, which dip into the finest Florence or Lucca oil, sprinkle a small quantity of fine salt on the flowers, and lay a layer of cotton and one of flowers alternately, until an earthen vessel or wide-mouthed glass bottle is full. Tie the top close with a bladder, then lay the vessel in a south aspect to the heat of the sun, and in fifteen days, when uncovered, a fragrant oil may be squeezed away from the whole mass, quite equal to the highly-valued otto of roses.