After enjoying a rough but palatable supper of frying-pan bread, bear meat and coffee, we lit our pipes, and with stories of frontier life, Indian raids and adventures, interspersed with music on the violin, flute and harmonica, the evening passed pleasantly. One has to put up with anything in this country, and when I had to roll myself up in blankets and sleep on the ground, it was not unexpected. I should probably have slept well if, toward morning, I had not been awakened by a rain and wind storm, which came up so suddenly that my coverings were blown away, and I was well drenched before I could find shelter under the camp wagon. It was soon over, however, and the morning broke clear and pleasant.
Soon after breakfast I started north, while the campers pulled out in the opposite direction for Colorado. Terry felt lively from his run on the plains, and I was at the ranch in less than an hour. There were now before me twenty miles to the Laramie River, and then sixty miles of very hard traveling over the foot-hills and mountains to Fort Fetterman on the North Platte, where the worst part of the trip would be over. All the afternoon, till the sun had nearly set, did I travel over the monotonous plains without seeing a sign of human life. About half-past five I heard a shot from my right, and, hastening over the hill, saw a hunter fire again at an antelope which was among a small “bunch” of cattle. Unless forced by want of water, or decoyed, these timorous creatures seldom allow hunters to approach so near; but this unfortunate in some way had got among the cattle, which were not afraid of the hunter, and so it quietly stood its ground till the first shot was fired, when it was too late to escape. The man proved to be the owner of a ranch on the river that I was bound for. I dismounted and helped him place the antelope, a fine young one, on his horse. Then, leading our horses, we started for the ranch, three miles away, anticipating with sharpened appetites the treat of fresh antelope for supper.
In the evening I was attracted by a camp-fire across the river, and thinking I might get more information as to trails, ranches, etc., I crossed the river on the logs. It proved to be a freighting outfit bound for Cheyenne direct from Buffalo. They spoke of my probably having a very hard pull to Fetterman, and thence I would be apt to get lost and turned about, unless I stuck to the stage road, and they advised me not to try to strike cow ranches, as I had planned. On recrossing the river I thought that I could get over as before, on the logs, but I missed my footing, made a misstep, and fell in. As I sank down into the cold water of the river, I thought before I could get out “my name would be Dennis;” but I grasped the logs for dear life, and, crawling and struggling, reached the shore wet as a drowned rat.
The next morning I was none the worse for my accident, or for being obliged to sleep in wet clothing. I here made a trade with my saddle, getting one lighter and cheaper, that would answer my purpose and save my horse, as the former one weighed forty pounds, being a regular cow saddle.
The morning dawned very threatening, and as I rode into the hills it began to snow. I reached Horseshoe Creek late in the evening, making twenty-eight miles that day in the face of a severe snow-storm. Early the next morning I started for Lebonte Creek, twenty-two miles away, thinking to reach there by noon, and Fetterman, twenty-two miles farther, that night. But, as I got farther into the foot-hills, I found it would be impossible through the snow, which in places was very deep, so that if I got through it in two days I would be lucky.
THROUGH DRIVING SLEET AND SNOW.
For some ten miles I rode, admiring the magnificent view of the Rocky Mountains, now plainly visible, with their snow-white peaks apparently touching the clouds, when, on dismounting to walk up a long and steep hill, I heard a clatter of hoofs behind, and on looking down the hillside, was astonished to see one of the gentler sex coming in my direction. All sorts of conjectures as to who she might be crossed my mind, and I thought of stories, read long since, of “Calamity Jane,” “Fearless Kate, the Female Highwayman,” etc., but I was again surprised, as she approached, to find one of apparent refinement and culture. I was thinking just how and what to say, when she bade me a pleasant “Good-morning, sir! Rather cool”—presumably referring to the weather, not to myself. I soon found use of my powers of speech, and we chatted away at a great rate. The young lady was returning from a visit to her nearest neighbors twenty miles down the creek, and lived at a ranch which I hoped to make by noon. The remaining twelve miles did not seem half so long as the first ten.
At Lebonte her father made it exceptionally pleasant. I concluded not to attempt to make the fort that day, but to accept their kind invitation to remain till morning. In the evening, seated before the open fire, we had a long and interesting conversation. This “Rose of the Mountain” lives twenty miles from the post-office and nearest neighbors, and she and her younger brother and sister have their ponies and nature in its grandeur for their society. I made a trade with one of her brothers, and for my watch obtained a fine Winchester rifle.
During the night a storm came up, and in the morning I was confronted by a regular Wyoming blizzard. I put on overcoat and slicker, crossed the creek, and pushed into the mountains. After less than five miles, I almost wished I had remained at the ranch till the storm was over. A very high wind, accompanied by a driving, drifting snow, retarded my progress, so I could hardly make three miles an hour. As I got into the mountains, the storm increased in violence, and it grew colder. I could hardly see the trail, and but for the government telegraph-poles connecting Fort Russell with the north, which I had used as a guide so far, I should surely have been lost. At Wagon Hound and Bed Tick Creek I was obliged to make a crossing, where, had the water been a foot deeper, I should never have been able to get over. As it was, poor Terry almost gave up, the water was so cold and deep, and at Bed Tick I had to go three miles east to find a place where I dared to enter the icy water. A great part of the way I had to walk, fighting against wind and snow, till late in the afternoon, when, utterly exhausted and chilled, I dragged weak and tired Terry into Fort Fetterman, twenty-two miles that day, and one hundred and seventy miles of my journey ended.