The morning had dawned pleasantly, but now the weather looked very dubious, and I could see a storm coming up toward the mountains, which were almost hidden from view. It was almost four P.M. before I reached Dyer’s sheep camp, on Pole Creek, about twenty miles from Cheyenne. The storm and wind seemed to grow worse, and it was dark, just as the rain came down in torrents, when I reached Lowe’s ranch, on Horse Creek; and well it was that I did, for as night came on I could hardly see two feet ahead of me. In crossing the creek Terry stumbled and fell on his knees, but I pulled through all right, though considerably wetted. Just as the cowboys were making the round-up I rode into camp and was cordially received. Supper over, pipes were lighted, and I played my flute for a while, but, being very tired after my hard ride in such inclement weather, I soon turned in on a rough bunk of blankets and fell asleep.
My route now lay east for a few miles along the creek, and I rode along lighthearted in the glorious morning. At Goodwin’s ranch I turned north, on the stage road, and by noon reached Bard’s, at Little Bear Springs. About six miles farther on I overtook a camp of freighters, and had a pleasant talk with a few old-timers, all of whom thought my trip would be rough, and told me that they would hesitate before taking such a journey themselves. The scenery had varied little. From day to day I crossed rolling plains, with thousands of cattle, sheep and horses quietly grazing, with numerous antelopes and prairie dogs in sight, and occasionally elk and black-tailed deer. Toward the west were the Laramie Range of the Rocky Mountains, with their snow-white peaks glistening in the sun.
Time flew by, and for ten miles I rode in silence until I came in view of a lone sheep-herder with his flock. Being interested in the details of a sheep-herder’s life, I went over to where he was seated on a ledge. He was dressed in rough, cowboy’s garb, his head bowed between his knees as if he were in deep thought, smoking a pipe. As his back was turned toward me he did not see me coming, and I rode up to him and said: “A pleasant afternoon, sir!” He started, but regained his composure in a second, and without taking his pipe from his mouth, grunted a simple “yes,” not even troubling to look up. “Your sheep are in good condition,” I continued. He raised his head suddenly, gave me a wild, murderous look, but answered not a word. Concluding he did not wish to be questioned, I proceeded on my journey. At Chugwater, on inquiring about this strange fellow, I heard that many years ago he lived in New England, was of good family, very well to do, and exceptionally well educated and intelligent. He fell in love with a girl, who jilted him, and he never could get over it, but left his home, came West and started to herd sheep, living alone and shunning all society.
Toward sundown I ran into a prairie-dog town, where hundreds of these little animals were running hither and thither, in and out of their holes, and filling the air with their clatter and squealing. It was now close to six o’clock, the sun was almost out of sight, and I was as nearly as I could judge seven miles from the Chug. Terry, however, was as impatient for his supper as I was, and at my “Get up, old boy!” he started into a gallop, which he steadily kept up till the bridge was reached. It was just seven o’clock as I rode up to the post-office at Chugwater—twenty-nine miles that day, and sixty of my trip ended.
This was one of the most important places on my route, containing a post-office, stage station, a ranch hotel, a general store, and the stock ranches of the Swan Land and Cattle Company, one of the largest organizations of its kind in the world, operating 250,000 head of cattle, and having three millions capital. It is also a lay-over for the stages of the Cheyenne, Fort Laramie and Black Hills Company. There was quite a gathering of ranchmen and others, on their way south to the annual meeting of the Stock Association at Cheyenne, a very important event to the cattle owners of Wyoming.
I TAKE MY LAST LOOK AT THE CITY.
In the morning I arose early, with the intention of reaching by noon a ranch called Hunton’s on the map. I found myself, however, so stiff in the limbs, not being thoroughly used to the new saddle and the action of the horse, that I concluded to allow Terry a run in the corral and rest till the afternoon before starting.
I passed the morning in looking into the workings of a model cattle ranch, preparatory to the spring round-up, and was particularly interested and amused in watching the men break some bronchos to the saddle. The life of one of these “broncho busters,” as they are called, requires much nerve and daring. Not unfrequently they are badly hurt by the kicking and struggles of these fiery beasts.
I had left the Chug scarcely more than three miles behind me, when, on turning a bend in the trail, I came suddenly on a band of a dozen or more antelopes, quietly grazing a short distance to my left. If I had had a rifle I might have distinguished myself, but I could only pop away at them with my six-shooter, much to the disgust of Terry, who kicked and bucked till I was nearly thrown. Between four and five o’clock, I reached Richard’s Creek, with four miles ahead of me to Hunton’s, where I intended to spend the night. As I approached the creek, I was overtaken by a brown, sunburnt individual, who, after we had exchanged “Hows,” invited me to spend the night at his camp half a mile down the creek. He was one of six who were on their way south to Colorado for the purpose of gathering up three hundred ponies for the round-ups in Northern Wyoming.