FIG. 4—Pair of Clams. FIG. 5—Knife. FIG. 6—Bone Rubber. FIG. 7—Method of Measuring Registered Frame: A to A, Top of Sides; A to B, Top of Gussets. FIG. 8—Pattern of Bottom, Showing Place of Nails. FIG. 9—Side Pattern Folded. FIG. 10—Gusset Pattern Folded. FIG. 11—Pattern for Gusset Stiffening. FIG. 12—Handle, Showing Distance of Rings.
The awl blades mentioned above are of two kinds, and either may be used for this work. Those generally used are of a straight diagonal shape, making a perforation the shape of a diamond, <> ; the others are perfectly round, tapering gradually to a fine point. To fix them in the boxwood handles, place the blade in a vise, leaving the unpolished part above the jaws; hold the handle above this, and commence driving it down, taking care that the blade is penetrating the middle of the handle. Continue tapping the handle until the ferrule reaches the polished part of the blade; it will then be in far enough.
A good serviceable pair of clams may be made by taking two staves of a good-sized barrel, and cutting about 10 inches off the end of each. Screw together with three screws (as in Fig. 4), and shape the uppermost ends so that the outsides meet in a sharp ridge along the top; this will give a flat surface within the mouth, by which a hold of the work may be obtained. A two-inch screw will be long enough for the bottom, which must be turned in as tightly as possible; the others must not be less than 3 inches, as there will be a space of 1½ or two inches between the staves at the part where they are inserted. Screw these just tight enough to give a good sharp spring to the mouth of the clams when they are pressed open; this will insure the work being held firmly while being sewn. Sandpaper them over to give a smooth appearance, and these will be found as useful as bought ones.
A piece of basil leather will be required for the bottom and welts of the bag. This may be purchased at a leather seller's with the tools. Cut out the bottom first; the welts may be cut from any narrow pieces. These must be cut seven-eighths of an inch wide, then folded over, and lightly hammered down. This brings the two edges together, and when placed in position, they should lie evenly between the edges of the material. A piece of string may be laid in the welt to give it a fuller appearance if the leather is very thin.
The following dimensions of bags when made up will enable the maker to choose the most useful size:
No. 1, 16 by 14 inches; No. 2, 19 by 16 inches;
No. 3, 21 by 17 inches; No. 4, 24 by 18 inches.
The sizes of frames and parts when cut will be as follows:
| Frame. | Sides. | Bottom. | Gussets. |
| No. 1, 15 inches | 16½ by 15½ | 16½ by 5½ | 15½ by 5½ |
| No. 2, 18 inches | 19½ by 17½ | 19½ by 6 | 17 by 6 |
| No. 3, 20 inches | 21½ by 18½ | 21½ by 6½ | 18½ by 6½ |
| No. 4, 23 inches | 24½ by 19½ | 24½ by 6½ | 19½ by 6½ |
Taking No. 1, 16½ inches will be the length of sides and 15½ inches the depth. The gussets are also 15½ deep, the width being 5½, the same as the bottom. Take 1½ inches from the depth of these to allow for covering the frame, and ½ inch from the length to allow for the seams, and we have a bag 16 inches long by 14 inches deep.