And now to commence. Arrange the pieces of carpet on the board, and mark off the size of each part required with a piece of chalk or pipeclay. By cutting with the carpet, laying the right side up, we shall be able to see that the pattern of it will be in the same direction on both sides of the bag when made up. We next take the ball of hemp, and by pushing the finger through the hole in the center of it, drive out the end. To use the hemp from the inside is much the best way, because the ball will stand perfectly still, whereas, if started from the outside, it will be darting in all directions about the floor of the workroom, and entwining itself around any obstacle which lies there, unless it is placed securely in a box and drawn out through a hole in the center of lid.
A hook must be fixed in some convenient place to make the waxends on, or, as they are called in the trade, "threads," which term it will be as well to call them by here; thus a four-cord thread means a thread or waxend containing four strands of hemp, a six-cord contains six strands, and so on. One of the greatest difficulties for the amateur is to produce a well-formed thread. He generally finds it thicker a few inches from the point than at any other part. These are known in the trade as bull-necked threads; and as the mechanic finds it difficult to use them when his employer starts a new apprentice and gives him this job for the men, I must impress on the worker here the necessity of making them as perfect as possible. It would be as well if a little practice was given at breaking the hemp in the way which produces good points. Better waste a few yards of hemp than be compelled to abandon a thread after making only a few stitches with it.
Gripe the hemp firmly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, leaving about eight or nine inches hanging loosely down; lay this over the thigh of the right leg, and with the right hand rub it in a downward direction, which will cause the twisted strand to loosen. One good stroke should be sufficient; if not, it must be repeated until the fibers forming the strand are quite loosened. By holding it close to the end with the right hand, and giving it a jerk with the left, the fibers will break, and the ends of the strands formed in this way are placed at a little distance one above another, which, when twisted, form a smooth, tapering point.
To cast off a thread the proper way is to stand at a distance of about three feet from the hook previously mentioned, and by holding the end of the hemp in the left hand, pass it over the hook and bring it down with the right, then holding with the left and breaking as above. When sufficient strands to form the thread have been broken off, carefully examine the points to see that they taper properly, and have no lumps in them. Rub the wax up and down a few times, so that the thread may be properly waxed on that portion which will be inside when twisted. Hold the two ends in the left hand, and with the right roll each end separately down the right leg a sufficient number of times to twist the thread throughout. Judgment will be required in this operation, or the thread will be a constant source of trouble if it is over-twisted. Wax it again, and then it is ready for use. See that the points are well waxed, then take a needle and pass the point of the thread through the eye until it nearly reaches that part which would stop its progress.
It must now be turned down on to the thicker portion and carefully twisted. Smooth it down, then take the other end of thread and another needle, and fasten it on in the same way. In selecting the awl to be used, do not take a very large one. The hole should be just large enough for the thread to require a slight pull to get it through.
To commence sewing take one side and a gusset and place them evenly together, the right side of the material being inside, and fix them in the clams. Slip the welt as previously described between the edges, and pass the awl through the lot. Drive it perfectly straight, as upon this chiefly depends a nice seam when turned. Draw out the awl, and by following the point, pass up the bottom needle with the left hand. This should be taken by the thumb and forefinger of the right hand and the thread pulled through half its length, so forming a thread of equal length on each side. Make another hole with the awl about one-third of an inch from the first. This gives the length of stitch. Pass up the bottom needle as before into the right hand, the top needle descending to the bottom immediately after. Take hold of this with the left hand and pull through the threads simultaneously top and bottom, until the extremity on each side lies on and forms the stitch. Be careful that in pulling in the latter part each thread closes at the same time, thereby preventing a crooked seam. Repeat until the seam is finished, then take the other gusset and place in position. Sew this, then take the other side of bag and sew to the gussets. You will then have something in the shape of a bag, minus the bottom. Take this next, and fix each corner to one of the seams previously made, and stitch it carefully round, placing a welt in as before. At the end of each seam a stitch or two back should be taken or the thread tied over to prevent it opening.
The outside of the bag being inward, it must now be turned previous to stiffening and framing. The turning is done by placing the bag over the left arm, and with the right hand commence pushing in one of the corners, then the opposite one until that end is reversed. Then serve the other end in a similar manner, and smooth each seam along.
We now take a piece of stout millboard (an old ledger book cover will do if large enough), or, if purchased with the frame, ask for a two pound board: this will cost about 4d., and be sufficient for several bags. Cut it quarter of an inch less than the bottom all round, and see that it fits before gluing it in. To do this, place one end within the seams at one end of the bag, and by lifting it in the middle press in the other, when the stiffening will lie within the four seams at the bottom. Having fitted it satisfactorily, take it out again and glue it well with some good hot glue. This must be neither too thick nor too thin. The best way to prepare it is to lay some glue in cold water for twelve hours. It will absorb sufficient water in that time, and can be boiled up without any further preparation. The quicker it is fixed after the glue is put on the better. A brush similar to a paint brush will be the best to apply it with, and need not cost more than 6d. After the gluing, lay it aside for a few hours to allow it to thoroughly set, during which time the making of the handles can be proceeded with. On some bought bags these are very common, and seldom last more than a few months; the usual plan being to take a piece of rope about the size of a clothes line and roll a piece of brown paper round it, covering it afterward with a piece of basil leather.
Procure two pieces of brown harness leather—the shoulder of the hide is most suitable—from a saddler, 11 inches long by 1-1/8 inches wide, round the four ends, and make a compass mark 1/8 of an inch from the edge all round for the stitching. Take a piece of line as above, and place within the leather, which most likely will have to be damped to make it draw round easier. Leave 1½ inches from each end for sewing to the bag, the line also being so much less than the full length of the handles. Having sewn them, flatten the ends and bend the handles into a semicircular shape, and leave them to dry.
By this time the glue holding the stiffening to the bottom of the bag will be set, so the next move will be to put in the studs or nails. Take the largest size awl and make five punctures through the bottom, about three-quarters of an inch from each corner and one in the center, as in Fig 8; push the nails through and turn down each of the two claws in an opposite direction, tap them with a hammer to make them lie closer, and also to prevent them from becoming loose. This done, we next take the frame and remove the key-plate from it.