Fold the sides of the bag well over the frame, so that the stitching will get a good hold of the part that goes inside. Put a stitch through at each corner to hold it, and see that it sets perfectly true on the frame. A space is left between the two plates of iron forming the frame, which allows of the bag being sewn through it. Fix the key-plate by riveting inside. Sew the bag from one corner of frame to the other corner on each side, leaving the gussets unstitched. It is now ready for the lining. Let this be good, as it will greatly add to the durability of the bag if strong. Coarse linen at 8d. to 10d. per yard is the best material for this purpose. The sides and bottom may be cut in one piece; the length of this will be twice the depth of one side of carpet (less the part which folds over the frame) and the width of the bottom. The width of this piece throughout to be a half inch less than the outsides were cut. The gusset lining will want to be the same width as the gusset, but an inch less in length will do. The seams of the lining may be stitched with an ordinary household sewing machine if good thread is used. When made, place the lining inside the bag, see that it is well down at the bottom, turn in the top edge all round to the required size, and fix in as follows: Take a long carpet needle and a length of thread, pass the needle through the lining at the folded ridge and bring it up again through the same at a distance of an inch or so. This forms a stitch within the lining; pass the needle through one of the stitches made in sewing in the frame and repeat as before, carefully observing that the lining falls into its proper place as it is being sewn in. Continue in this way until the two sides are done, leaving only the gussets and gusset lining to be united. This is done by folding the edges inward and sewing them together, the frame joints moving freely between the gussets and lining. We have now only the handles to put on and it is complete. Sew these on with a five cord thread well waxed. To protect the lock against being unduly strained when filled, a strap and buckle may be put on between the handles and each end of the frame, as in Fig. 3.
Next in order is the cricket bat bag, which should always be comprised in the outfit of the amateur cricketer, as well as of the professional. In making this we follow the instructions given for the carpet bag. It may be made either of carpet, tan-canvas, or leather, the latter, of course, being the strongest and most expensive. Carpet will not require to be described, but a brief description of tan-canvas and leather may be of service to the amateur in assisting him to choose something for himself.
Tan-canvas, as used for bags and portmanteaux, is a strong, coarse material of a brown color; it wears well, and has one advantage over carpet—it is thoroughly waterproof.
Leather is, of course, superior to carpet or canvas, but there are a few tricks in its manufacture which it may not be out of place here to mention as a caution to the amateur that the old saying, "There's nothing like leather," is a thing of the past where the general appearance of an article is meant. The genius of the inventor has produced machinery which gives to paper, linen, and other stuffs the appearance of the genuine article, whereas it does not contain one particle of it. At one time, when a hide of leather was required to be of the same thickness all over it, the currier would work at the flesh of the skin with a shaving knife, gradually scraping the thick parts away until it was reduced to the required substance. Now it is done in a few minutes. The hide is passed whole between the rollers of a splitting machine against the sharp edge of a knife, which reaches from one side of the machine to the other, a distance of 10 or 12 feet. This knife is so gauged that any thickness can be taken off at one operation, the part taken off resembling the hide in size and shape. The top or grain of the hide is then dressed and finished off brown, if for brown hides; or, if to be used for enameled hides, they are dyed and japanned. These are called either brown or enameled cow-hides, according as they are finished off, and are used for all the best class of Gladstone, brief, and other bags. The bottom or fleshing of the hide is also dyed and japanned, and when finished, exactly resembles in appearance the hide itself, and is very difficult for the novice to tell when made up into bags or any other article. These are called splits, and having had the best part of the skin taken from them, do not wear one-fourth the time the grain will. The black enamel soon chips off, which gives them a worn-out appearance.
To make a bag 36 inches by 12 inches by 8 inches requires a frame 36 inches long, the sides 36½ inches by 14 inches, gussets 14 inches by 8½ inches, bottom 36½ inches by 8 inches. The lining will be 36 inches by 12 inches for the sides, gussets 13 inches by 8 inches, bottom 36 inches by 8 inches. For the handles two pieces of leather 12 inches by 2 inches. The straps and chapes are sewn on quite close to the frame, straps 10 inches long by 1 inch, chapes 4½ inches by 1 inch. Cut a slit in the middle of the chape for the buckle tongue to go through, and pare the under side at the end so that it is not too lumpy when sewn on to the bag. Cut two loops 3 inches long by ¾ inch wide for the points of straps to go through.
The brief bag must be made of leather, and as there is the same amount of work in making it, whether it be of split or hide, it will be sure to give greater satisfaction if the latter is chosen. The manufacture of this bag differs considerably from the others. The sides and gussets in the carpet bag are cut straight from top to bottom, but in the brief bag they must be shaped to fit the frame, and give it a more comely appearance. The frame, as before described, is quite different. The way to commence with this bag is to open the frame as in Fig. 7, so that it will lie perfectly flat upon the bench. With the rule measure it carefully between the corners, A, A, and again at A, B. The distance between A and B being less when the frame is open than when closed, an additional ½ inch must be added to allow the gusset to bend freely round the hinge. Having correctly taken these measurements, get a sheet of brown paper and fold it in the middle; the reason for this is to allow of each side of the pattern taking the same curve at the swelled part. Cut the pattern for the sides first by ascertaining half the distance, A, A, and marking it on to the edge of the paper, measuring from the folded edge toward the ends. Next mark on the folded edge the depth you intend the bag to be, allowing in this, as in the carpet bag, 1½ inches for covering the frame. The depths of brief bags vary so much that I will give these only as a guide, leaving my readers to add or reduce as their fancy guides them; but if they should strictly adhere to these given below, I am certain they will find them very useful sizes.
For a 12 inch frame cut the sides and gussets 10½ inches in depth; when made up, these will be 9 inches from the frame to the bottom. For a 14 inch frame add 1 inch, and for a 16 inch add 2 inches. This will make these 10 inches and 11 inches in depth respectively when made up, and either of these will be found a very useful bag for many purposes. The width of the bottoms to be cut 5 inches, 5½ inches, and 6 inches, the 5 inch, of course, for the 12 inch bag, the 5½ inch for the 14 inch, and the 6 inch for the 16 inch. The depth having been decided upon, and marked on the folded edge of the paper, make another mark the same distance from the edge at the first mark, H. The bottom of the sides being 1 inch longer than the top, add ½ inch to the measurement of the top of pattern when the bottom part is marked off at J L. Draw a curved line between H L, as in Fig. 9, and cut through the two thicknesses of paper at one time, keeping them well together to insure them being alike. The gusset pattern may be cut in the same way, D to D, Fig. 10, being half the distance of A B, Fig. 7, and the ½ inch added for going round the joint; E E, the swelled part, which bends into the bag when the frame is closed, and also allows it to open perfectly square; F F is half the width of the bottom of gusset. A pattern for the bottom of the bag may be made by folding a piece of paper each way to get the length and width; make a small hole through the four thicknesses, open it and mark it from hole to hole, using the rule as a guide. This will be found to be perfectly accurate.
To cut out the bag, lay the leather on the bench, enameled side downward, and see that the patterns lie on it so the creases will run from the top to bottom of the bag when made. The sides must be taken first, and as they are more exposed than any other part, they should be taken from the best part of the hide. Take the gussets next, then the bottom. The welts are taken from the cuttings which are left. To make the handle, glue a lot of odd pieces together about 6½ inches long, ½ inch wide, and the same thickness, and when dry pare the edges away until it is perfectly round and slightly tapering toward each end. It is then divided and glued top and bottom to a strip of good leather cut to shape, Fig. 12, which is passed through the rings at each end, and turned back to form a shape. Put a few stitches through close to the rings before the fittings are glued on, and cover with a piece of cow-hide long enough to go through the two rings and along the under side, then stitch it. Trim and dye the edges, rubbing them afterward with a piece of cloth to produce a polish. Before making the handle, the plates must be on the rings, or it will prove a difficult job to get them on afterward.
The stiffening for the bottom will be cut as if for a carpet bag. Fig. 11 represents the stiffening for the gussets, and is cut from a board half the thickness of that used for the bottom.
The linings may be cut from the outside patterns by reducing them the 1½ inches, allowed for covering the frame, and 1/8 inch for each welt. A lining of scarlet or blue roan greatly adds to the appearance and durability of a bag. A skin large enough for a 14 inch or 16 inch will cost about 3s.