IN A CORNER OF THE DRAWING-ROOM.
There is not very much to relate about mantles this month. They all seem to be short at the back and long in front, the ends being either square or pointed. In the latter case many of them are tied with ribbon bows, or have other ornaments of braid, beads, or chenille. Striped materials are used for making up handsome cloaks; and ulsters are usually made of checked woollens, though they are by no means “loud” in tone. The small mantles of plush, brocade, and velvet are very much trimmed and ornamented; and in this way—as the beaded trimmings and fur bands are moderate in price—mantles that have already seen service may be helped over another winter. The long jackets will be found to cut into shape very well; and I have recently helped to alter a paletôt which had been dyed, by cutting it up nearly to the waist, at the back, and into deep square ends in front. The trimming then laid on was black astrachan, about two and a half inches deep all round, and in a V shaped point on the back, with cuffs and a tiny epaulette on the sleeves, making it quite a new garment at a very small expense, viz., 2s. 6d. for the dyeing and about 6s. for the five and a half yards of astrachan.
Instead of the almost forgotten sets of linen collars and cuffs, many ladies are wearing pleated satin, the pleats being very close and small. The satin is used in various colours, and appears also in the necks and sleeves of evening dresses, especially in black ones, where the bright hues of the satin look refreshing. A velvet bow may finish it at the neck.
These are certainly halcyon days for the home milliner, for so little trimming is placed on bonnets that it is quite worth while to manufacture them at home, after a look at the many shown in the windows. Care must be taken to set the bows in front up well, and, if a soft material, a long bit of wire will form a support.
The flower of the day is the white chrysanthemum, and one sees it everywhere—on dinner tables, as button holes, and forming bouquets. Very few flowers, however, are seen in millinery, and ribbons seem in greater favour. A new idea in the way of dress pockets is to have the pocket made as a little gathered bag or reticule, which hangs at the side for the handkerchief.
The stockings produced for wearing this winter are quiet and ladylike-looking, being self-coloured, to match any dress with which they may be worn; or, if embroidered, the patterns are small, or the stripes are merely fine lines of colours. The newest shoes all appear to lace, not button; and this will probably keep them in all the better shape, as they can be pulled tightly together or loosened, as desired. Laced boots are also returning to favour, for the same reason; but I do hope my girl-readers will not neglect their laces, and always try to keep a spare lace in the house, in case of breakages, as nothing looks so bad, or is really so wretched in wear, as a broken or an untidy, unevenly pulled-up lace. For skating, of course, laced boots are a necessity.
The new winter muffs of fur are not large, and nearly all of them are supplied with a purse or pocket of some kind, and also have handles of fur, which are more convenient than the purse; for the muff can be slung over the arm when shopping, or when it is necessary to keep the hands free; a style that seems more sensible than the long cord round the neck for grown-up people. Long boas are not quite so long as they were, and are now more used with one long tail hanging down than two, the other end being the head of some furry creature—mink, marten, or squirrel; and so far does this idea go, that the legs are often seen as well, which is a painfully suggestive idea.
Our illustrations for this month are peculiarly successful in showing the prettiest of the winter styles, especially in the larger picture of out-of-door gear. The long cloaks are shown with two different styles of trimming, and a short jacket braided with thick cord—which is very girlish and graceful. So, also, is the short mantle trimmed with bands of fur. In the corner of the drawing-room—which serves as a warm and cosy refuge to two of our girls—we have our paper pattern of last month illustrated, with a plastron of soft silk added to it, for wearing in the house; while a waistcoat is used for the out-of-doors dress. The young girl in the armchair wears a “Norfolk,” or pleated jacket, like her dress, which has an air of simplicity and elegance. These “Norfolk jackets” we propose to adopt for our paper patterns for this month. The first is really a repetition of that we have already given, which, however, is as much worn as ever; and the second is rather a new form, with a yoked top, which is sometimes made pointed both in front and behind. The first of the “Norfolk jackets,” or blouses, is that without a yoke, and for this I will repeat the directions given very carefully, for it is a pattern that can be cut out and made-up by anyone, however inexperienced they may be. It consists of seven pieces: the front, back, collar, belt, two halves of a sleeve, and a cuff. The back should be cut double, as there is no join down the centre; a deep hem must be allowed on each side the front where the buttons are placed; the pleats turn forward, and the position of the notches should be very carefully observed. The edges may be finished by a row of machine stitching, which should be even and good.
NORFOLK JACKETS.